Yes, I should have been clearer - the wires run on the wrong side of the clip (even if the slots were accessible) - but the one on the Y holder is still available for use.
I have a couple of other non-issues that the “cable tray” sorts as well, the biggest of which is the length of the Y stepper cables, so neatly cut and re-pinned to fit perfectly on the LR2. The connectors are in exactly the most awful spot - under the Z stepper!
This mount stops any risk of sag, and keeps the wiring off the steppers at the same time, but even more importantly there are no pesky stray wires to catch between the fancy covers and the plate and the cable now has no need for any strain relief.
I was going to solve all of those “first world issues” with loom tape, but this is nicer.
This is why you don’t document your build in a super public way kiddies!
Turns out that my “temporary” struts so carefully made by my own hands have one hole slightly mis-positioned. It’s somewhere between half and one millimetre out.
Naturally it’s a corner one that’s fairly important to ensure proper alignment of everything, and this error presently translates to more than 6mm worth of “toe out”. (with no proper adjustment)
Since I drilled the first row of holes and used that as a template for the other, that would have meant three problem children, but of course I flipped it over and drilled two more meaning the opposite diagonals are out, and then used one of those for the original brace - so by my maths I have six of the twelve end holes misaligned.
It’s just as well I have a bigger drill bit. I’m sure it will be fine and the oversized holes won’t affect anything, but I’m taking the parenthesis from “temporary” when I talk about the struts from now on!
Now seriously out of my comfort zone (and very close to the edge of my understanding one too), I’ve started to untangle the wires rescued from the LR2, and it has suddenly dawned that with endstops I am now way out of my depth!
If the answers to my questions are in the documents I am more than happy to pointed to them! For now, I am starting at base zero with my existing Rambo board and need a bit of confirmation/handholding so here goes:
EDIT - Thanks to @SlowRider Matt for discovering this diagram on another thread. AND THEN I found it in the documents!!!
I’m pretty sure that the Y axis is self explanitory - Y1>Ymin and Y2>Y max so I have a third of it figured!
CORRECT
1) Since there is only one X stepper I presume it is X1>X min and X2>XMax can be ignored?
CORRECT
I assume that both Z plugs are interchangeable - either can be plugged into either port?
CORRECT (both are Z1)
The Z endstop is at Z Max, and presumably the touch plate goes into Z Min?
CORRECTION NEEDED Z1 and Z2 are interchangeable but Second Z endstop plugs into port labelled X Max
I think I have to update the firmware (shudder) can I confirm please that the correct version is:
V1CNC_Rambo_DualLR-2.1.1
CORRECT? A HUGE shoutout and thank-you to everyone who has contributed to making flashing the board such a simple step-by-step operation. Everything from installing the Visual Code app to PlatformIO and the upload itself was so clearly explained that even this very nervous non-techhead had an almost great time doing it! Phew!
I’m not going to be a ton of help here since I don’t run the same board as you. But I’m going to do some more digging to try and find the correct answers. I cant remember what board I ran on my old LR2 but I know it wasn’t an SKR so it could have been that one. Might be some info in my old thread for that machine.
The docs only show wiring for the Primo…not the LR2/3 so this is going to be a tough one till someone smarter than me comes along
cant interchange them. Each endstop needs to be connected to the correct Z. Same with Y. If they are backwards the machine wont home. If you have them opposite then when the Z1 endstop triggers the Z2 motor will stop and Z1 will keep trying to go up and start skipping steps. Z2 motor will never get to the endstop. hopefully that sheds a little light on why it does matter.
Let me do some digging before I try to answer anymore. Will report back shortly…
I would think it would be the same but I’m just not sure so hopefully someone who knows more about your board will say for sure. Sorry I wasnt able to be more help but I know someone else will fix you right up.
Glad to see you making some progress! That sure is some beautiful work you are doing! Honestly seeing your work is giving me the drive to clean up some of mine! Thank you!!!
Well discovered Matt!
Thank you to you and to @Jonathjon for the speedy replies!
@SupraGuy I think this was your illustration? (from the linked thread) - can it go into the docs somewhere or is it already there?
I was pretty much correct with my deductions but there’s no way I could have guessed the X2 endstop! My hat is off to all those who have gone before and know about this stuff.
Phew! Now that I’m fairly sure I know what I’m doing with the wires, and the board is flashed correctly (I hope!) I feel like I do after a big day at the dentist… relieved and ready to get on with life!
Here are some more pics of my “cable trays” and which are a better explanation of them that my response to @vicious1 Ryan above, including a photo of the stock setup. I would have twisted and bound the cable with loom tape in the end (so therefore this photo does not represent what might have been) but it does clarify the difference between the two.
Please note that when using the fenders/covers the clips do prevent use of the standard zip tie points, but it’s all a bit clearer without them mounted.
Also the 6mm plate does force the cables into mid air a bit - this tray is around 16mm wide, but for a thicker plate I’d tend to drop it to 10mm I think.
I’m over my little panic from yesterday thanks very much, and am surprised that when all was said and done, thanks to hanging around with you lot and listening to conversations comprising of nothing but acronyms and number sequences, I have absorbed almost enough knowledge to be dangerous, but not so much that I think I can do it without you watching on!
Now something I CAN do:-
I am often horrified to see YouTube “experts” hold up a bucket of prototype parts that they’d generated in order to come up with one that finally fitted/worked/looked OK. I have been surprised also in the past at the reaction of people when I suggest that this is an awful waste of time and plastic; I’m not saying don’t prototype, but you don’t have to reprint the entire part just to test a small area.
Just slice whatever bit you need and do a quick, fast mockup to check only the area of concern. If I need a lid to fit something or a pipe fitting, I usually just print a three or four layer slice - or enough to make it firm enough to do the job.
My apologies to those of you for whom this is obvious. Here’s my final check fit of the “other side” fender which is printing now.
Now, i a know i ahve been absent for a couple weeks or at best only casually looking due to time and mental health issues, but I just cant leave you alone for a couple weeks Peter!
all I can say is WOW and I want some.
I especially love the embossed art deco names, my 2c, make it a cut out, throw a carved bit of acrylic behind and edge light the acrylic to match/ offset your colour scheme. Orange in your case, or RED on black lower covers in my case.
(if i was any good with image editing i would mod the photo, but i am no, soz)
Why do I open my big mouth and set myself up to fail?
It’s only been a day since I wrote that with regard to my “modular box” in the beam, and as it happens I spent a bit of fretting time in the middle of the night sorting out what I think I’m going to do with it.
It’s probably best just to finish it and do a show and tell - but I’ve just tweaked all the little modules slightly in finer detail as well as the end pieces so that it will be easy to adapt for any width I think. I can’t get around my own design criteria which will make it a lot more fiddly to build than simply screwing on a box.
I’m having a think about a similar box at the other end too, to house a panel mount socket for the router, and to allow hidden routing of the Right hand side cabling through a conduit (a shiny chromed one of course). The power supply will be mounted on the conduit exposed (shudder) and I think that will leave me with an inch or two of cabling that you’ll be able to see if you peer through the slots in the tops of the braces!
On another note - while trying to talk myself out of Painting the orange top covers silver as per my original intent, I noticed that the light on the Core produces exactly the two toned effect I had envisioned in that sketch above, which is pretty cool. The silver is not quite the right colour, but it’s closer than the orange so it will have to do.
Final 240V wiring might just be held up for a week, while a mottley collection of plugs, pins, connectors and even a box of disposable gloves wend their weary and ever so slow way here.
But I built the stealthy mount for the power supply, a tidy little bracket that clamps to the conduit that will conceal the low voltage stuff as it crosses to the board. Yes, I know I could have just screwed it onto the brace, but that would have taken four screws, and my way takes only two, and I get to make some nifty little clamps to hold the conduit in place too…
Long, beautiful thread. Did anyone suggest putting an LED in the V1 logo on the side covers? I saw that Chris mentioned edge-lit acrylic, and that could be interesting, too.
Alternatively, panelize, greeble, and aztec it up with some light weathering, and go for a space factory look…
I have given passing thought to that and also in the recess on the “inside” for the screws, but I have so much detail still to finalise that that isn’t going to happen. As to the space factory look - waaaay up near the top of this thread I did a Starship Enterprise version only half-joking, and I got quite some distance down the track of producing a Jawa Sandcrawler version until the Force pointed me in this direction!
Today, I’m having a bit of a cleanup while my ducks are attempting to put themselves in a row. I have a pretty clear direction on most things conceptually, but the finer detail is not called “finer” detail for nothing.
The “mudguards” have raised the bar on this build and I just need to put in some CAD and prototype miles to refine other bits. I’ll be away for the best part of a week too, so it looks as though I’ll be back to Friday reports.
I thought I might document the painting process out of interest. This is one of the prototype covers in PETG - it was a very quick and dirty print and the real ones won’t be anywhere near as challenging.
Usually I give everything a coat of plastic adhesion primer but for this test piece I didn’t, and usually I just go straight into the primer filler, but I have a ton of left over Zinzer BIN and thought I’d lay down a couple of quick brush coats as it should sand pretty easily - all that dust looking stuff is actually texture from the build plate (I used a smooth plate for the PLA).
The board is squeezy in there, but it’s fifteen mm or so wider(deeper?) than the Joker so fitting a smaller board should be easy. Following @Fabien’s idea above - I figured that if I slotted the brackets in one direction it wouldn’t be too hard to design an adapter plate with slots in the other direction to make it all fit. Naturally I made these too long to make that work in this situation but it will be fine. Just need to print a couple (four) standoffs so the long brackets clear the soldered wires.
The missing “teeth” at the bottom are waiting for a usb passthrough to arrive so I can adapt to fit.
I added a little “Rhino” horn above the controller rack to hold the controller off the face to clear the core, and have the cable exit working nicely now.
I really should be doing other stuff, but with so many things so close to being able to just print and complete I’m finding it a bit hard not to be distracted.
Prototype of the panel on the rail end. The benefit of doing this is that in the drawings it made sense to have the two cable openings side by side - it’s the natural order of things. (the two half openings were for testing purposes). The white cable represents the wired-in power cable connection I’ll lower that hole and raise the stepper cable hole so the cables don’t fight each other.
I’m going to swap out the router lead for an IEC standard right angled plug and plug it into the little outlet so that the cord aligns with the vac hose. Power in and to the powerpack will join behind the socket in a little box which will keep all the 240 on board and separated from the lesser voltages.
