M05
G0 X0 Y0
G28 Z0
M00 (Change tool: )
G38.2 Z0
G92 Z0.5
G00 Z5.0000 F500
M00
M03
So this should work for Tool Change correct??
M05
G0 X0 Y0
G28 Z
M00 (Change tool: )
G38.2 Z0
G92 Z0.5
G00 Z5.0000 F500
M00
M03
I don’t think the 0 is needed. I plan on editing my tool change gcode in a couple of hours to run more YZ plates so I will be testing this soon.
If this fixes the issue I will change the docs to show it (I recently redid the milling basics page, and will edit it again).
This G28 method is the right way anyway. I had a friend doing a giant project as his first one with very few mm to spare and I realized a moving up the Z axis 30mm is not the right step anyway. Homing it up is best. Need a max z switch for the mpcnc so we can do the same.
So once this is proven out, two birds with one stone situation.
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I was thinking exactly this as i was reading it. Should be possible to add relatively easy i would think but you are the brains on that one lol. Im still trying to find a 2.5" clear hose adaptor i can print so my dust collection will hook up on the LR3. I cant 3d model to save my life lol.
I will change to this. I wasnt sure why the 0 was there. I remembered seeing it for the leveling part so i thought it was needed.
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Missing the F parameter in the first G0 move?
And the second G0 move has an additional 0?
Will that be problematic?
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There a 2.5” dust shoe remix by @DougJoseph that i use to directly connect a 2.5” hose (actually, my hose end adapter was 2.25” so I bulked it mount with tape)
https://www.printables.com/model/212623-lowrider-3-cnc-makita-700-series-mount-removable-d
3 Likes
Also, more info on my particular routine here from a couple months ago
2 Likes
Z level question. How close is close enough? i have run it several times and each time it seems i stay the same. Im ending up at .09~ higher on the x+ side.
Well i started typing this then got pulled away. Ended up forgetting i started it and ran the machine. Its definatly higher on the x+ side. So ill have to set it to 0 and run it again. That will have to wait 2 weeks though. My time home has come and gone lol. Time to head back to work for 2 weeks
Yes sir i am running that and your hose hangers. Im using clear spiral dust collection hose so i needed a hard adapter to screw into it and hold better in your mount. I was able to find one on Thingiverse and print it. It fit quite well. Only downfall i have now is using a spindle i have more stick out than a normal router so its a little far from the workpiece and leaves quite a bit behind. It seems to have great suction. If i was any good at modeling i would remix yours and make it just a touch deeper so the bottom was almost even with the bottom of the collet. Right now my collet hangs completely out of the dust shoe.
After running a cut i knew right away we were going to have to add this. it moved SOOOO SLOW back to 0,0
I noticed that but left it alone and i didn’t have any troubles with the movement… other than being slow lol.
I went back and added this:
M05
G0 X0 Y0 F2500
G28 Z
M00 (Change tool: )
G38.2 Z0
G92 Z0.5
G00 Z5.0000 F500
M00
M03
I dont have time to run it again but hopefully that will make it all better when i get back in town.
The one I use is here, Milling Basics - V1 Engineering Documentation.
I have no issues with that. 3 and a half thou over 4’?!
2 Likes
I use this- just wrap a bit of blue tape around the flange part and it fits great in Doug’s shoe
POWERTEC 70191 Screw End Quick Coupler for 2-1/2” Hose – Left-Hand Threaded Adapter, 2-1/4 x 2-1/2", Black https://a.co/d/7WG2HFC
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I found a file with all kinds of different ends on thingiverse and the one I printed looked exactly like that one and fit great. I will see if I can get my wife to send me a pic of the other part I was talking about sometime today. I didn’t think to take one before I left.
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I’m going to have to make some adjustments. I made a piece for my wife tonight before I left. 12” x 12”. The side on x- cut great. X+ didn’t quite cut through. I think I was making too many adjustments trying to make it perfect and ended up getting it worse lol. Need to just start over and not try to get it perfect spot on.
Interested in a link for this. I hate paying prices for adapters
Thanks
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If you are cutting through- that’s what a spoilboard is for. Add a couple though to the cut depth and you’ll be good. In a few months, you’ll also have a nice abstract piece of mdf to use as wall art in the shop, lol
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I did add extra. It just only made it though on one side. When I sold my LR2 that spoil board had some DEEP cuts in it lol. Trying to be more precise and learn better with this one.
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