LowRider3: European adventures

Yes, this is normal.

Is it the side closest to where the router is?

It isn’t unusual for one side to drop, but if one side isn’t ever dropping you might want to double check that side has free motion in Z.

Without power applied to hold the stepper motors stationary (and with the pitch of the stock lead screws,) it is expected that when power is removed the machine will drop down.

Many folks make stop blocks to put under the X axis gantry before powering down, but this isn’t necessary. The upside is you don’t have to worry about the router settling down on an endmill and then forget.

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It took them 200 researchers and virtual Earth-sized telescope to take a first photo of black hole.

Today it took me only 10 seconds, INCLUDING, creation of the black hole. Pffft!

How do y’all take out those plastic sockets/baskets for plugs from skr pro? I mean those for steppers and endstops. [ solved: see edit 2 below ]

Alternatively - what is a plug type which should go there? I’ve bought JST-ZH but it does not fit!

Edit: maybe PB1.25 plugs?

Edit2:

I found video of @azab2c while struggling with those :smiley:

Edit3:

I mean, Aza is struggling with them on his video. Well, actually, I was struggling with them too when I found his video. OK, it’s too complicated.

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I’ve cut first strut yesterday and it went fine, but sloooooow… (600mm/min)

So today, after reading here DOC discussions I went with 1000mm/min with 3.5mm DOC and it failed… I mean I have usable(ish) strut, but machine was all wobblying/dancing right and left (X axis). Maybe router was set to too slow speed? It was 3 on the makita.

Maybe bit was already dull from making this black hole from post above? It was just 2 or 3 seconds though. No experience in making black holes.

Bit is 6mm with 4mm cutting part - DOC of half of bit should be calculated from width of cutting part or router part?

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Hi, when I am calculating my Feeds and speeds I use an app for that. I am from Germany and there is a company called Sorotec which sells quality cnc stuff including bits. I use their app (on iOS ‎Sorotec App im App Store)

For a single flute 4 mm bit (cutting diameter) in MDF (particle board?) the app calculates a maximum of 3900 mm/min at 30000 rpm. More reasonably for the lowrider and what I would run, is 2000 mm/min at 16000 rpm.
Soft wood would be around 1600 mm/min at 26000 rpm.

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@Sonmer thanks for this! I have installed the app on my phone and I’m sure it will come handy very soon. For now I have to try speeds in very low threshold as my lowrider is still in progress: with no struts, and only few braces.

But I failed twice trying to cut second strut and I think I have a culprit. I had to dismantle the core and I found few things:

  1. one of the tool holders snapped (too tight, my fault)

  2. lower core wheels holders nearly lost nuts - I used glue on all, but those for some reason. They now have glue as well…

  3. X stepper lost it’s (also unglued) screws which hold pulley in place. How it was moving at all? I have no idea. Unfortunately one of those little screws vanished and I do not have replacement :frowning: yet another pause for delivery…

But I’m very happy about the first strut - it looked really good (photo few posts above).

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Do I have to put SD card into the screen while it’s turned off? It usually freezes completely when I slide card in. I have to power cycle to recover from this. Is this normal?

I assume you are using an SKR board with screen?

I used to put my sd card in the board directly instead of the screen. I think that is also the recommended way to do it. I had no issues swapping sd cards with the machine turned on.

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Yes, SKR PRO v1.2 and it works fine - just this problem with hanging. Interestingly it does not happen every time…

OK, I have successfully cut all three struts!

However first one few days ago, then I had some problems - disassembled and reassembled machine and then successfully cut last two. And they differ in length for some reason! Like 5mm on 1400mm length. Can I use them or should I cut again?

They should be exact or you might have problems, since the rails are a different length.

Wait, what? Rails are different length?! you mean pipes on X axis?

Anyway, I’ve cut yet another strut today and now have 3 same size. I plan to install them tomorrow.

Yeah, pipes, rails, whatever on X need to fit the strut plates. :slightly_smiling_face:

OK, but by “rails are a different length” you mean that top rail should differ in length from the bottom rail?

No. With your 5mm too long plates your pipes would have had a different length which does not work.

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Got it. Thanks!

One more question: I have this ridiculously huge bit for planing (like 40 or 50mm) - are there any catches I need to know about before I will try to flatten my spoil board?

Make sure your router is perfectly trammed before you start.

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Damn, so many things to learn and I… actually enjoy this!!! :smiley:

Uhhhh, I would use something smaller. It’s going to be difficult to get good results with that. I have a 1/2" (~12mm) dovetail bit for this purpose. The largest I’ve seen people use 1" (25mm).

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Yeah, you’re probably right. I have 12mm straight bit. I will probably start with that.

OK, I have to go to learn about tramming. C ya later, all! :slight_smile: