LowRider 3 - Plasma Build "On a Budget" - Clarksburg, WV

LowRider CNC Your Builds
223

LowRider 3 CNC - Plasma CNC table parts - Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to table

Printables

01. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table IMG_1690
01. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table IMG_16901920×1440 312 KB

02. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table
02. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table2152×1458 109 KB

03. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table
03. Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table2152×1458 98 KB

04. CNC Plasma table using the LowRider v3 motion control system
04. CNC Plasma table using the LowRider v3 motion control system2152×1458 453 KB

05. M5 x 8mm screws for Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table
05. M5 x 8mm screws for Mounts for 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to Vevor stainless steel table1920×1440 219 KB

The following is copied and pasted from the description on Printables:

I designed these printed parts to attach 1.5-in aluminum square tubes to a VEVOR name brand stainless steel table, which became the base for my LowRider 3-based plasma cutting rig, which is documented both on the V1E forum and on my YouTube channel, and for which other printed parts are available here for free.

The table linked below is the one I used for my plasma rig (although I switched its legs for longer ones from another VEVOR table I had, and those other legs had casters mounted on them). I paid $259.99 for the table, but as of March 2023 the price had increased to $302.99.

Print settings:

  • Print as oriented.
  • No supports needed.
  • If printing with 0.6 nozzle, I suggest 2-3 walls, 30% infill.
  • If printing with 0.4 nozzle, I suggest 3-4 walls, 30% infill.

Mounting tips:

  • I used M5 x 8mm screws (as shown in the photo) to attach these to the table. There is an existing screw hole on the VEVOR stainless steel table (each hole has a compression nut in it) that I used. I seriously considered drilling an additional hole for each mount, but in the end I did not. So, although the mount has three screw holes, I only used two, one for the table (on the lower end) and one for the aluminum square tube (on the upper end).

Various links of interest related to my plasma cutting build, based on LowRider v3 and LinuxCNC:

Amazon affiliate links to plasma cutter, machine torch for it, and consumables for each:

Amazon affiliate links to project related items:

Amazon affiliate links to products used as shown in Torch Mount portion of the video series:

  • MGN12H Linear Rail Bearing Sliding Block Match use with MGN12 Linear Guide for CNC xyz DIY Engraving Machine (200mm, H-Type) — https://amzn.to/3PF7TId
  • End-stop I used for floating Z — from a set of 6 high-quality end-stop switches that came included with an Emergency Stop button I ordered from Amazon — Push Button Switch AC 400V Red Sign E-Stop Emergency Mushroom 22mm NO NC + 6pcs End Stop Limited Micro Switch for CNC — https://amzn.to/3qsVXPt
  • Crimp-on spades used to attach wiring to end-stop were from this set — Nilight 540PCS Mixed Quick Disconnect Electrical Insulated Butt Bullet Spade Fork Ring Solderless Crimp Terminals 22-16/16-14/12-10 Gauge Electrical Wire Connectors Assortment Kit, 2 Years Warranty — https://amzn.to/3RBi1TR
  • Evolution Power Tools R185CCS 7-1/4" TCT Multi-Material Cutting Circular Saw, 7-1/4" — Amazon.com
  • Female Thread Brass Knurled Threaded Inserts — https://amzn.to/3zWDKOr
  • M2 M3 M4 M5 Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screws Nuts Set 1060pcs Carbon Steel Screws Assortment Kit — https://amzn.to/3dqfWLf
  • Round Magnets (12mm x 3mm) — quite good — eventually shown in use in videos #5 and #6. Quite strong, and working well for this use — MIN CI 100Pcs Super Strong Neodymium Disc Magnets, 12 x 3mm Small Magnets for Dry Erase Board Whiteboard Office Fridge Crafts, Mini Round Rare Earth Magnets for DIY Building Scientific Models — https://amzn.to/3erRCZU

Amazon affiliate links to some other items for LowRider 3 CNC:

If you have any questions, I’m on the V1E forum as Doug Joseph (design8studio) or you can ask here via the comments.

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

1 Like
224

Thanks for all the detail in your build thread Doug, this is amazing! I’d been following up until Nov 22 when new business took over all my time but looking at what you’ve posted since then and some of what you’ve produced on the finished machine I’m definitely inspired to keep going with my LR3 plasma project.

1 Like
225

If you don’t already have your torch mount with floating Z planned and handled, I can definitely tell you that my design works for the LowRider v3 to run plasma.

https://www.printables.com/model/274084-lowrider-3-cnc-plasma-torch-mount-with-floating-z-

The magnetic breakaway feature of it has already protected my plasma torch tip more than once. Regarding the sweet spot on how much magnetic attraction is needed, to balance the desire to stay in place for normal operation and yet break away whenever damage would result from collision with (for instance) a cut part that is jutting up instead of falling through, I’d say I’m in the sweet spot, and perhaps on the low end of the sweet spot. A teensey bit more magnetic force could perhaps be tolerated, but too much and it would perhaps defeat the purpose. The only feasible way to increase magnetic force on my design would be to go double deep on the magnet “wells” and stack two magnets deep instead of one. However, I’d be concerned it would be too much. Mine is definitely working with only one magnet deep on each side.

226

I’d definitely been planning on floating z and breakaway, had designed and printed a couple of prototypes before I saw your design but hadn’t got as far as building my table.

My plasma cutter has a hand torch rather than straight machine torch so would need some modification and I’m not sure how the extra weight hanging off side one side if this would affect the strength of magnets required to hold this but still function well as a breakaway.

227

Gotcha. For my approach to work with that kind of torch setup, there would need to be more magnetic attraction. Maybe doubling the magnet well on both sides would be enough.

228

Two recent videos featuring this LR3 based plasma rig:

LowRider 3 CNC DIY Plasma - LinuxCNC: Probing, Framing, & Cut Recovery!

LowRider 3 CNC DIY Plasma - LinuxCNC: Even More Cut Recovery Awesomeness!!

229

Now available on Printables:

For DIY CNC Plasma: MESA THCAD2 Mount & Box Cover (v1.0.1)

Download: Printables

As mentioned in my YouTube channel content here:

  • LowRider 3 CNC DIY Plasma Table PART 9 - Control Box from revamped PC tower!

…and here:

  • LowRider 3 CNC DIY Plasma Table PART 10 - MESA torch height control!

…attached are the printable STL files for my MESA THCAD2 Mount & Box Cover.

The files are labelled as

  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Back Mount) v1.0.0
  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Connection Panel) v1.0.0
  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Cover) v1.0.0

The Connection Panel is intended to be attached to the Back Mount with tapered head screws of M3 diameter, around 6mm or so in length.

The Back Mount can be attached to the plasma machine using M3x6mm screws.

The Cover can be attached to the Back Mount using M3x10mm screws.

Below are some illustrations from SketchUp screen shots and actual photos. Some of the photos were of a prototype later improved.

The white lettering was achieved by pressing white caulk into the 3d-printed lettering groves, and then cleaning up the surface after the caulk was dry. I used a quick drying caulk that’s a mixture of silicone and acrylic. The surface cleans up easier if it is first coated with dabs of dish detergent, allowing the dish detergent to dry before pressing the caulk into the grooves. The water solution dish detergent forms a sacrifice layer that prevents the caulk from bonding to the surface, instead only bonding inside the grooves. For this reason it is important to dab the surface only with the detergent, not letting it get down into the grooves. In the second video (above) I have not yet applied the caulk to the final item.

Other printable items are already freely available on Printables.com, which include:

Change log:

  • March 25, 2023 - Original remix uploaded (v1.0.1)

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

230

Now available on Printables:

For DIY CNC Plasma: MESA THCAD2 Mount & Box Cover (v1.0.1)

Download: Printables

As mentioned in my YouTube channel content here:

…and here:

  • LowRider 3 CNC DIY Plasma Table PART 10 - MESA torch height control!

…attached are the printable STL files for my MESA THCAD2 Mount & Box Cover.

The files are labelled as

  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Back Mount) v1.0.0
  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Connection Panel) v1.0.0
  • MESA THCAD2 CASE (Cover) v1.0.0

The Connection Panel is intended to be attached to the Back Mount with tapered head screws of M3 diameter, around 6mm or so in length.

The Back Mount can be attached to the plasma machine using M3x6mm screws.

The Cover can be attached to the Back Mount using M3x10mm screws.

Below are some illustrations from SketchUp screen shots and actual photos. Some of the photos were of a prototype later improved.

The white lettering was achieved by pressing white caulk into the 3d-printed lettering groves, and then cleaning up the surface after the caulk was dry. I used a quick drying caulk that’s a mixture of silicone and acrylic. The surface cleans up easier if it is first coated with dabs of dish detergent, allowing the dish detergent to dry before pressing the caulk into the grooves. The water solution dish detergent forms a sacrifice layer that prevents the caulk from bonding to the surface, instead only bonding inside the grooves. For this reason it is important to dab the surface only with the detergent, not letting it get down into the grooves. In the second video (above) I have not yet applied the caulk to the final item.

Other printable items are already freely available on Printables.com, which include:

Change log:

  • March 25, 2023 - Original remix uploaded (v1.0.1)

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

231

Doug,

First off - thank you for all of your effort thus far, and documenting everything as you have. As well as coming back and updating when you’ve changed something!

But along those lines - it looks like you’ve condensed your wiring a bit, and as I’m looking to order parts to assemble something similar, I was wondering if you could perhaps outline your power distribution? I’m curious because I have a spare Meanwell DIN PSU, and figured I’d go with DIN terminal blocks - and want to make sure I have sufficient quantity.

The star ground: Ground prong from outlet, EMI, 24V PSU, 5V PSU - total of 4.

24 V-: 5 leads for drivers, (C)ommon to Mesa, lead from PSU - total of 7. In the background of the above photo with your ARC/CNC box for the THCAD, it looks like you’ve moved V- to the other side of your block with a bridge jumper, and deleted the 10 position that was there.

24 V+: 5 leads for drivers, 6 leads for endstops, 1 lead for E-stop, 1 lead for CNC start signal input, 1 lead from PSU. Total of 14.

Is my count accurate?

Also - do you have capacitors soldered in line with the outlet connection? Attaching screenshot, I think I can post photos, but if not, seen at 5:27 of your Part 9a video on YT.

Once again, THANK YOU!

lr3_cnc_diy_power_in
lr3_cnc_diy_power_in1037×504 41 KB

232

@BWAutosport

Hey, and thanks for the questions. I hope that between the wiring schematic I updated and posted, and the video I made on the control box, there is enough to go on to get answers. The first video in this post:

…Is the one on the control box. It’s this one:

And I think (not 100% certain) the most recent update to the wiring plan is this post:

Re:

The star ground: Ground prong from outlet, EMI, 24V PSU, 5V PSU - total of 4.

I think so. The wiring plan shows a single grounding leg coming from the line between the incoming power and the EMI filter, so I don’t know if I did more than needed, but I think what you describe is what I did (and it works).

Re:

In the background of the above photo with your ARC/CNC box for the THCAD, it looks like you’ve moved V- to the other side of your block with a bridge jumper, and deleted the 10 position that was there.

I think the best resource here is to watch the video where I tried to document things at the completion of the control box. I cannot remember for certain, but I think the photo you are referencing was at an earlier stage before completion, and if memory serves, I had made a rookie mistake of thinking that “block” could be (-) down one side and (+) down the other side, with two bridges inserted on both sides, but I caught the mistake before powering on, in realization that when a bridge is inserted on either side, everything on both sides has to be either (-) or (+), not both.

I am a little too far removed time wise to be as crisp on it as I was, so hopefully between the wiring plan schematic and the video, you can verify things.

Well, when I dismantled the old PC, and cannibalized it’s power input socket, there was a little bit of something still hanging on there. I honestly cannot remember for sure, but I don’t I left any of that stuff in the live circuit. I think I just simply did not clip it off. I think it’s not connected. Short answer is I did not intentionally solder any capacitors into the setup.

Hope this helps!

233

Thanks Doug - your response clarifies things for me, sometimes it helps my brain to say it out loud and then it falls into place. :grin:

And thanks for clarifying the function of the bridge jumper, as my brain was making an incorrect assumption :+1:

234

Beautiful work there Doug!

i am trying to find the fusion 360 file of the whole thing: the lowrider 3 with the table as you have in the pictures. Where can i find that?

235

Thanks! I have (and others have to, I think) been reluctant about sharing fully done-up models of the LowRider unless Ryan would say it’s OK. You can created one of your own by dropping the parts into the modeling program. My model that you mentioned was not done in F360 but rather in SketchUp. :slight_smile:

236

LowRider 3 CNC - Large Drag Chain 90 curve raceway (SEE VIDEO: Large Drag Chain on both X and Y axes)

As promised a long while back, I finally got around to posting this on Printables, since I had deactivated my Patreon account (I did not care for their business model).

Download: Printables

Screen Shot 2023-06-08 at 7.10.25 AM
Screen Shot 2023-06-08 at 7.10.25 AM1920×1301 182 KB

Description from Printables listing:

As shown and discussed in this video:

As described in the video, attached are both printable files and editable SketchUp files. This content was previously exclusively for supporters on Patreon, but I did not care for the Patreon business model, and I shut down my account there, and have been working to openly share the content freely here and elsewhere.

Note: The original version of this is a big part, so I in case you don’t have a printer with a very large print volume, I’m including a 3-piece version so you can still print it and assemble it. I advise using both glue and screws and nuts. One clever glue approach is to use both epoxy and CA glue, for the best of both (CA for fast adhesion, and epoxy for greater adhesion and strength).

I used my Ender Extender 400XL to print the whole part as a single piece.

If you don’t want to print this out of plastic, and you have access to a LowRider or other CNC, you could mill something like this out of plywood.

IMPORTANT: It is likely that my LowRider’s braces are spaced differently than others. The spacing I needed (from brace to brace) was 198.86 mm. If you decide to use this design, please measure carefully the distance between your last two braces, and then edit the length of the “Part C (Straight).stl” as needed. You can use the free version of SketchUp to edit the included file.

Re. the 3-piece print, this pic is color-coded simply for illustration of the separate parts:

The three pieces are:

  • Part A (90 Curve).stl

  • Part B (Connector).stl

  • Part C (Straight).stl

All assembled:

Please note: the connector part should be printed as oriented in the STL print file, not as shown when assembled. This achieves better strength regarding the layer lines. The image below illustrates its print orientation.

Connector part — print orientation:

For those with a very large print bed — Drag Chain 90 raceway curve ver 1.0.stl

Note: This design is made to work in conjunction with my other printable large drag chain designs, particularly those linked below:

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Amazon product links are affiliate links.

2 Likes
237

Bravo for the job but a huge BRAVO for the so documented thread.
I dream to one day do the same
:clap: :clap:

1 Like
238

Hi @DougJoseph, I’m doing a same setup as yours. Planning to run LinuxCNC on mesa boards. I like the “ Full Y and Z axis squaring, leveling” on my lowerider CNC router, is it possible to keep these features if I went with LinuxCNC and 7i96? Thank you very much.

239

Since a plasma rig like mine does an active “Z probe to the metal surface” process for each and every cut path, and has auto torch height control (THC) included and happening, it becomes not as crucial to have the gantry perfectly squared. Having a lack of squareness in the XY plane could indeed be an issue, and would affect the results. The effect on the results would increase with larger table / larger cut projects, and, likewise, be not as profound on smaller table / smaller cut projects.

Honestly, I have not painstakingly checked my XY plane for squareness on my plasma rig, although it could be measured to some degree of accuracy, and presumably the LinuxCNC config structure has ways of compensating. If I can get time later I may check mine. So far I’ve been getting usable results. And I’m very swamped right now.

1 Like
240

Hi Doug, I’m trying to configure the pncconf, and noticed my pin type is “INM input” instead of “GPIO”, is yours same? Wondering if you can post a screenshot of your pncconf page. Thanks a lot.

IMG_8953
IMG_89531512×2016 1.76 MB

241

I showed all the screen shots of my PNCconf setup in this video, starting at about 2:13:

242

…And…here’s the actual screen shot from my video (linked above) that you can compare against:

Screenshot 2024-07-15 at 8.46.25 PM
Screenshot 2024-07-15 at 8.46.25 PM1920×1241 140 KB

1 Like