Let them think you did!
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I will liberally borrow from design ideas that I find good, no matter where I find them.
So there are many of the things that “I’ve designed” that look similar to things that Ryan has designed in some aspect I’ve borrowed design elements from things on Printables.com or Thingiverse.com.
So for people who see my 3D printed stuff, it’s sometimes difficult to tell the stuff that I’ve designed from stuff I got elsewhere that I liked. I’m still reasonably careful to attribute the design where it belongs.
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Can someone add that you need 3 strut plates? not overly clear unless you have the parts in front of you 
also confirming (maybe add to instructions as well) that the strut plates are same length as tube lengths? for those making it fit whatever size table they already have
edit, found it “X rails, also the strut plate width” in tube length, but maybe add a note to the strut section also
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Looks like I need to finish up that section of the instructions. I have been working pretty hard on a side project, V1 related, but need to finish up the instructions ASAP.
Added a few notes for now.
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I created a way to support my Y belts out away from my table. Posted on hardware dev thread. Files on Printables. Could be remixed to screw onto side of wood.
That’s what I did. Scaled 1400 to 1425. No problem
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Now mostly used by drywallers to ruin wiring… 
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I was too lucky to brake two tappers in the two bottom holes in a metal YZ plate. I grinded it flush, but cant take them out. Is it still ok to use it with 4 screws, or should I have a new plate cut? The other row of holes is ok.
For the linear rails? You are fine a few screws short.
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Hell, we are 
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Yep. Phew! Thanks
What’s pro/cons of using 3/4" vs 1/2" EMT for Y-Axis?
About to print Y Axis rail blocks, in US, so deciding between Home Depot’s 1/2" EMT (rail-block-18p1.3mf) or 3/4" EMT (rail-block-23p4.3mf). Docs “Printed Parts” notes recommends US 1/2" EMT ( LowRider CNC V3 - V1 Engineering Documentation ). Asking why, because I assumed a larger Y Axis fixed rail would be sturdier/better? LR3 is my first V1E build, but 2nd CNC, so I know close to nothing.
V1E stamped USPS box arrived today. Freakin excited, birthday gift to myself. Cheers!
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I understand Ryan’s earlier comment about 1/2" Y-Axis having larger easier to clean gap underneath. Any other reasons to not use 3/4" EMT (if you have already, or are ok with cost being bit more than 1/2") ?
Rail blocks from left to right, 18p1, 23p4, 25, 25p4
There is very little load on the Y axis. No performance difference to any of the options.
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Cheers!
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1/2" EMT is cheaper, handles any reasonable load adequately, and the slight increase in gap underneath means it should trap fewer chips in the way of the machine. You do need to be careful with your selection of pieces, because it’s kind of noodly and most pieces at my local Home Despot were bent. The best piece I found still needed a bit of straightening when Iaid out the Y rail.
3/4" EMT means slightly easier shopping for materials, maybe a bit more resilience when the machine is not on the table, and you are using it as a shop bench. It is less likely to have an inherent bend to it when you do your initial assembly.
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Thanks for the tips @SupraGuy. Brought a printed brace when buying EMT, initial intent was to just verify fit. But like you said, realized EMT quality varies, so was useful to run a brace along entire length of the EMT to help check for EMT deformations before buying. Cheers!
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Couldn’t find it mentioned yet, but I was wondering if the LR3 would be stiffer than a birly MPCNC at say a 24inx24in wide cutting envelope. Coming from a primo build I realized I actually don’t need a bigger CNC (limited by shop space), but something that’s slightly more capable at cutting aluminum would be worth an upgrade. The LR3 has more than enough Z height for me (even my primo is short to improve rigidity). I know the Lowrider would take up a bit more space for the same cutting area and that’s not a problem for me if it’d cut aluminum better.