LowRider 3 CNC - control box case for BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo board, Raspberry Pi 4b, and BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen (v1.3.5)

LowRider CNC Hardware Development
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LowRider 3 CNC - control box case for BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo board, Raspberry Pi 4b, and BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen (v1.3.5)

The key differences here are: SKR 1.4 Turbo instead of SKR 1.2 Pro, and Raspberry Pi4b.

Click here for download page: Printables

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The following is copied and pasted from the Printables listing:

This remix was requested by Stefan Raatz , who desired a case for holding an SKR 1.4 Turbo (instead of SKR 1.2 Pro), as well as a Raspberry Pi 4 model B. I’m not aware of him having printed this remix yet, so consider it untested for now.

Quick heads up:

These remix designs were somewhat “intended” for the case being positioned on the X-max end (right side) of the LR3 gantry. If you are planning for placing it on the X-min (left side), then the only concern with simply sliding the case to the other side is that positions the cooling fan intake holes toward where the cuts happen instead of facing outward. Perhaps the easiest work around is to flip the fans so they pull air out of the case instead of pushing air into the case. Previously I had mistakenly suggested simply mirroring the printer parts, but I had not actually done it, and when someone tried, they pointed out that mirroring does not handle reorienting the openings on the lid for the ports on the PCB(s). Sorry for any confusion.

This remix has changes to the base and lid for only one new purpose: so that an SKR 1.4 Turbo (instead of SKR 1.2 Pro) can be used, as well as a Raspberry Pi 4 model B beside the main board.

This is for an E3 version of the TFT. If a non-E3 version of the TFT holder is desired, it’s available in another remix, but changes to this remix’s lid would be needed. Contact me if desired.

This remix maintains the following previous latest features:

  • Made such that a single set of prints can have the TFT holder facing either way: out toward X or out toward Y.
  • Has the same streamlined print volume of the previous “low fat” version of the base. It’s a more efficient version of the base with some “fat” trimmed off. It maintains thickness and strength where needed, but saves 33% of the plastic and shaves 25% off the print time.
  • It also has the latest new version of hanging bracket, inspired by the work of Dan @SupraGuy on the V1 Engineering forum. This hanging bracket is split in two so it can accommodate your temporary struts while you’re starting out with your LowRider v3, and then graduate to your permanent struts once you get them cut and installed.
Other details remain pretty much the same, so below is a copy and paste from before, with minor tweaks:

Gorgeous printable case for your LowRider v3 CNC , if you’re using an SKR Pro 1.2 board and a BTT TFT35 E3 touchscreen together with a Raspberry Pi 4b. Offers some new features (see below).

Many thanks to Ryan at V1 Engineering for his design genius and gracious generosity in sharing his work with us all. For those whose LowRider v3 MPCNC has or will have a BTT SKR Pro 1.2 main board and a BTT TFT35-E3 v3 touchscreen, I offer my remix of Ryan’s blank control box case CAD file. This case may fit other SKR boards, depending on dimensions. Check before printing. It may also be remixed to suit other SKR boards.

Features:
  • NEW (as of August 16, 2022) New opening in side of TFT holder for access / use of USB port.
  • NEW (as of August 10, 2022) extended by 75mm so a Raspberry Pi 4b can be installed beside the SKR mainboard. See above.
  • NEW (as of July 7, 2022) “Low Fat” Base option. See above.
  • NEW (as of June 21, 2022) support facing the TFT toward X axis or Y axis without having to reprint any additional parts. Under the previous revision, you could choose to print either the “A” or “B” sets of the lid and TFT holder, with “A” facing the TFT toward the X, or “B” facing it towards the “Y.” In this one, you can print once and know that it can go either way.
  • Support for cooling fans — designed for two 40x40x10 fans. I use these quiet fans from Noctua: NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
  • Snap in place feature — this remix keeps the original screw hole from Ryan’s design, which allows the lid to be fastened in place on the base, but my design also includes a new snap in place feature. I love it, and have not bothered with a screw.
  • Access ports — for the SKR’s USB ports and mini-SD card slot, for the TFT touchscreen’s SD card slot, and for the USB ports and Ethernet port of the Raspberry Pi 4b.
  • DC power connector port — the base has an internal “sled” to hold the female power connector, and one of the printable parts is a little bar to screw in and clamp the connector in place. My LowRider kit from V1 Engineering came with one of the connectors. If you need more, these are available on Amazon.
  • Ample room for wiring and power connections — with options for running wires in from below the board or above it. I recommend below, as it minimizes chances of something getting tugged loose while sliding the lid in or out. See video (above).

Details of my upgrade of a LowRider v2 to v3 are available here on the V1 forum.

Print and Assembly:
  • Print the parts as oriented. No supports needed, assuming your printer is capable of a decent amount of bridging.
  • Use four (4) M3 x 8mm screws to mount the TFT to the TFT holder.
  • Use four (4) M3 x 8mm screws to mount the TFT holder to the lid.
  • Use two (2) M3 x 8mm screws to attach the clamp that holds the DC connector in place.
  • Use eight (8) M3 screws of an appropriate length to attach your two cooling fans.

Change log:

  • September 16, 2022, 8:15 pm (EST): new remix made for SKR 1.4 Turbo.
  • August 10, 2022, 7:00 am (EST): mod’d for Raspberry Pi 4b fitment.
  • June 24, 2022, 7:00 am (EST): updated both the lid and the TFT holder files to get closer to perfection on fitment and accommodation of the TFT, fitment and function of the reset button, and positioning and function of the SD card slot.
  • July 7, 2022, 9:25 pm (EST): add “low fat” versions of the base for both 1/8" thick struts and 1/4" thick struts. The low fat versions save 33% of the plastic and shave 25% off the printing time.

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/dougjoseph

View all my LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

*Product links are Amazon affiliate links.

2 Likes
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First off all… Great work… Such e nice case… Love it…

Is it possible to make e parametric fusion 360 file? I would do some changes for my own… A little bit bigger to insert a powersupply, gx16 connectors etc. This would be great with e parametric fusion360…

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These remixed control box cases were all made using SketchUp. At the time I had no skill in maneuvering around Fusion 360. I’ve since developed some skill at Fusion however I’m on the free Hobby license. If you have the full license there is a feature for converting an imported mesh into a native type body. However such a conversation would not have a full history stack for which dimension is based on which. It’s perhaps possible that carefully assigning parameters for dimensions in a certain order could result in a model editable by modifying a parameter.

4

Thx for your reply… OK, I’ll do the parametric conversion myself in fusion. If you had done it in fusion, I could have saved myself the work… That’s why I asked. But that’s not bad for me.

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Hey Doug, how much work is it to change the parameters? I tried to alter Ryan‘s design on printables, but could not get it done. The stupid board I want to buy is just too big… :smiley: Any tips on how to get it right?

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I have done all of my remixes of Ryan‘s initial control box by using SketchUp. It is pretty easy for me to edit one of the existing remixes to change the length of the box. It is more work if the location of the standoffs have to be moved (where the screw holes for the board go). If you let me know what board you are talking about, I can see if there is already a mix that fits, or possibly try to get time to make another remix. I’ve done quite a few of these remixes. Are you sure there’s not one that already exists that fits?

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Thanks for your answer. Yeah, really sure. The wholes aren’t even symmetrical… I was able to make the box longer, but that didn’t help because it is like, 20cm long and my printer can only do 18cm… The wholes killed me. I think I am going to design some triangles to hold 5mm HDF at an angle so I can fit it and the power supply.
Please don’t design this box for be because I can’t print it anyway. :smile: It might only be interesting for other users in Germany. Or I could ask my friend to print it for me. Hmm…

v2.07.dxf (2.0 MB)

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@Tokoloshe

What board is that? It seems to be 210 mm long by 136 mm wide, which is pretty large. The file you posted seems to indicate where the traces are on the board, and it seems there is quite a bit of unused space at one end.

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It’s a modular board. The empty space gets filled by connectors for the endstops. The DXF is just the control board without the modules. :slightly_smiling_face:

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love the box, I am putting together my LR3 and would like to put a pi in with the SKR 1.2 pro board. any idea on how to get the power for the pi from the SKR board? or do you use 2 separate power supplies?

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Hey, post pics of your make whatever you do make!

Regarding the Pi questions: I got asked by someone to make this design, and I don’t personally use the Pi or know much about that. I will need to let someone else help us on that?

12

will do

thank you for a great design and your help

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Pi takes a lot of power(1A, at least). I used a dc-dc buck converter from the 12V psu to 5V for the pi. Ideally, use the USB on the pi for power (because it has a good power filtering circuit that the 5V GPIO pins miss).

12VPSU-> DC/DC-> USB → pi

Don’t use 12V on the skr. You don’t want a lot of extra current running through the skr.

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Great design! I’m printing the top and bottom now. Any chance of getting a remix for the horizontal version of this touchscreen? Here is the link: BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0.1 Display- Two Working Modes – Biqu Equipment

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At least one of my other remixes was made for that non-E3 version of the touchscreen. It should be relatively easy to remix the existing lid, either with manually drilling holes or remixing outright.

16

I see it now. I must have missed it when I was looking for the variant. Thanks!

1 Like