lol
No, but I have been looking at my XZ plates and wondering if those printed plates can be the problem. I liked the look of the colored plates and saw that it said they should be fine. If everything else looks ok and that’s the only thing left, then I’ll just order a set from the shop.
I guess I’m going to pull my struts back off and check all of the measurements
Sucks to have to do but its a good thing to check for sure
Strut plates are dead on. 1429mm wide. 80mm tall. and diagonals are exact.
Tube is measuring 1 mm longer than strut plate on the top tube.
It’s possible with the rough end, the bottom tube could be up to 2mm longer possibly.
I think I’m going to pull the end plate back off and grind off some of the end of that bottom tube. The top tube should be fine since it’s not sandwiched between anything.
FWIW - (without any experience) my tubes were a few mm short each end deliberately, so I could make stoppers to “pack” them out to line exactly with the end brace face. You don’t need to do that of course, just pulling them back a hair from the face of the brace will do the same job.
Absolutely
Yeah if anything you want it a few mm shorter.
You can grab the beam and twist it forward with some force. That might help, sure did for me when the bearings didn’t make contact.
That should make it a lot better…if that’s what was throwing it out. And I would bet it was
I mean, it is better, but still not perfect.
Both of the front bearings on the rail are still not fully touching
But there is less outward belt pressure
I’ll go back out in a little while and see how it sits along the full length of the rail when moving. All I’ve done is home it and make slight movements so far.
It rides the rail like that the whole way…
On one hand, it bothers me that it’s not sitting down.
On the other hand, I just ran a 500x500 square test and it’s nearly perfect. 0.25mm or less off.
That front bearing is maybe 1mm from touching the rail
Do you have the Z homed all the way up when you are running it? I find mine runs like that with Z all the way up but rides much better when its down where I would normally use it
It does it with it only 10mm or so above the spoil board. It’s not all the way down though. I adjusted the rail a little towards the end and it’s better.
I just ran it through a few cycles of adjustment and now 1000x1000mm square is at most 0.5mm out of square, so I’m gonna call it ready to go
That sounds pretty good.
Got out and ran a surfacing job this morning.
Definitely can use a little perpendicularity adjustment. But at least I have a more flat-ish-er table now.
Just ran my first carve test and I think it came out pretty good.
Too bad I forgot to make sure it fit between my old cuts lol.
Now that I know it works well at least, I can go back and make a proper one with a flat bottom, etc.
Looking good!!!
Todays lesson of the day is……
Do not drop your router with V bit installed into the table…
Looks like I’m going shopping today
Ouch. Let me tell you another lesson I RE-Learned the other day. Don’t put movement on 100mm to run x and then think your going to hit Z- and not wreck a bit. BRAND NEW 1/16" endmill from @vicious1… Didn’t even get to spin it once LOL. And yes, that’s not my first time doing that. I think that will be a harder mistake to make now with the jackpot. 10 is the most you can jog with Z, without putting in manual Gcode anyways
lol….so there’s this Tablet tab……you can easily jog -1000 Z if you choose 
ugh… Yeah ill just stay away from that LOL.
