Hi. A while ago I bought this 2W diode laser, which seems to have the same diode type as the one Leo used.
I just want to confirm the steps, which I should take:
You should check to make sure that is still the right pin since that is a board not designed by the ramps 1.4 designer.
I’d like to just confirm that I was having a similar issue and aayrns fix solved my problem too. Thanks a ton guys. I would have never guessed something like that could cause my problems. I soent Soo much time messing with lightburn settings trying to overcome this.
Hey Guys… it’s been a few months now I have one final question. After replacing Marlin.cpp and re-compiling the firmware, which of the fan ports are you using for the laser? Is it “45” as in a previous post from Ryan or Fan 2 from another post? I’m using the Rambo 1.3 board. I can always get out my meter or my oscope and test but thought I’d ask here for a simple answer. Sorry, mental lapsing is appropriate for my … um, what were we talking about? 
LOL
PSS SORRY THIS POSTED 3 TIMES… couldn’t get it to respond got an error several times. Admin can delete any two he wants to.
Hey Guys… it’s been a few months now I have one final question. After replacing Marlin.cpp and re-compiling the firmware, which of the fan ports are you using for the laser? Is it “45” as in a previous post from Ryan or Fan 2 from another post? (see enclosed image) I’m using the Rambo 1.3 board. I can always get out my meter or my oscope and test but thought I’d ask here for a simple answer. Sorry, mental lapsing is appropriate for my … um, what were we talking about? LOL I’m trying to hook up my Endurance 10W+ laser which uses 3.5-12V for ttl.
Hey Guys… it’s been a few months now I have one final question. After replacing Marlin.cpp and re-compiling the firmware, which of the fan ports are you using for the laser? Is it “45” as in a previous post from Ryan or Fan 2 from another post? I’m using the Rambo 1.3 board. I can always get out my meter or my oscope and test but thought I’d ask here for a simple answer. Sorry, mental lapsing is appropriate for my … um, what were we talking about? LOL I’m trying to hook up my Endurance 10W+ laser which uses 3.5-12V for ttl.
Sorry…made this post without realizing I was in the wrong place…
Hey, Mark. Did you ever get an answer to this question? I’m also starting to setup my laser module and I’m confused like you.
Thanks!
-Jeremy
Jeremy…
No, guess people have moved on… I’m going to try setting it up then testing with my computer and a VOM meter to see which pins go high when I type commands into the RAMBO via my computer and Pronterface. If you get any more info share it and I will too! 
It kind of looks like they had further troubles but the thread is so long I can’t follow it.
Hey guys. Sorry for not chiming in sooner. I’ve been reading the posts but you’re working with a different board and laser than I am so I don’t know anything I can tell you from my setup would have any value. I hope to be in the shop tomorrow and can try to look (I’ve hard-boxed the electronics on my setup so not sure what I’m going to be able to see with ease).
Giving advice on laser is extremely difficult unless someone has the same exact one. If your board can handle 12V for the signal you can just use the fan port, this is explained on the laser page, if it needs 5v all boards have at least one available pin laid out on there setup pages. Not too many people want to make guesses as with lasers it usually results in instant wasted money if it is wrong.
So George Formitchev answered me that the TTL input on their 10W+ Laser can handle 3.5-24 volts with no problem, so 12v will be a breeze! Just an FYI!
Hi guys
I read through this thread when I installed this 5W laser https://us.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-450nm-5W-Laser-Engraving-Module-Blue-Light-With-TTL-Modulation-wp-Usa-1337358.html?akmClientCountry=SE&rmmds=myorder
I got it to work just fine with the marlin 2.0 with LCD
Now to the funny part, I’m helping a friend to install same laser and the laser it self works just fine but we have issues with the firmware. I uses LCD “#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER” on my MPCNC .
He have a different LCD so we just changed the configuration.h back to the stock LCD as it is in the default firmware “#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER” and it goes south.
I tried either comment out lines as suggested in the thread abowe or using the reworked(what I used on my machine) “malin.ccp” by @Aaryn in post
The laser works but the problem is that the speed change a lot during engraving or vector cutting. With vector cutting, it’s really obvious how it goes fast when it’s cutting straight lines but slow down and struggle making arcs for example. Another really strange thing is that the content in the menu tree is different by just changing the marlin.ccp file. saving settings to EEPROM disappears for example.
We plan to find one LCD like mine and running the configuration.h set to “#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER”, just to confirm that it works fine with that configuration.
Any suggestion on something for us to try? Any other details you need from me to help out?
In addition, I had a similar issue trying the dual end stop firmware on my MPCNC (the speed changed depending on feature the vector cutting was cutting, lines or arcs) so I went back to the firmware without dual end stop and it was all good, loving the laser. My guess at the time was that the processor struggled to control X and Y with two more channels but in this case on my friends machine, we just using a different LCD.
Regards,
Emil
Try turning off junction deviation, or doubling the values. I think the equations were changed at some point.
Thanks Ryan for your reply; We will try both methods.
Changing the value of the Junction Deviation in the Arduino code is straight forward to me, but, to turning it off, should I just comment out the “#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION” line
or all four lines
"
#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION
#if ENABLED(JUNCTION_DEVIATION)
#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM 0.005 // (mm) Distance from real junction edge
#endif
"
Regards,
Emil
If you disable junction deviation be sure to review your jerk settings. The eeprom values might not be initialized to good values and if jerk is zero (it was for me) you will still be going very slow on the curves.
Hi all. I’m attempting to install a 2W laser using the driver board GOOD LASER A-11 (also mentioned in Leo69s tutorial). I’m at section D:
step 4 - it says the fan speed should be set to fully on. I did this via my PC and verified it is at 5V TTL.
step 5 - it says the LED should be on and in my case it was, so I skipped steps 7 and 8
steps 9 and 10 - it says 5.5V mus be set, which I did.
step 11 - the current adjustment screw must be turned counterclockwise, so the led turns off and that the voltage will remain the same.
When I turn the current screw as described, the LED almost turns off and I can read a voltage of 2V, but the step says it should remain the same.
Would anybody know, what could be the reason for this?
Thank you.
I can’t remember exactly what it was but some of those driver pcb’s were labeled wrong. Have a look at the power and ground on all of the ports and make sure all of them make sense. Mine was backwards.
Mark, hey how are you doing with your 10W+ laser from Formitchev? I have the same. I kind of have things working well, but they could always be better. I’m using the RAMBo 1.4 board.
Ken… I wish I could say I have it dialed in… but truth be known I’ve not worked on it in a couple of months. I got panicked about keeping my house insurance and had a ton of things to do to keep it. I’d be more than thankful if you’d share with me what you have done to get yours up and burning… My MPCNC is literally covered with dust and I’m SOOO ready to get going again!!! Any help / advice would be great, seems like a lot of people have moved on to different things. Sorry I can’t be more help Ken! But again, what steps did you follow and what Pins did you wind up using?
