you can switch motor directions from the touch screen if you need…
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Is he running a screen and I just missed it? And I didn’t know that was possible from klipperscreen so that’s cool too!
If no screen just put a ! In front of the pin number.
I"m running a 7" rpi touch klipper screen. the tft3v3 doesn’t work on klipper as a touch screen.
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Yeah I have the hdmi7 on the V4. Sucks the tft35 won’t work, I have a few of those laying around lol
I can’t get a video without some endstops…bummer.
It is rad though.
I am going to grab some food now that you guys made the panic subside and the frustration disappear!!
I did get the screens from Teaching Tech’s recent video, but they are not plugged in.
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I have a couple of those screens as well and it would be awesome if they would work.
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Tell you what, it hit the end, I am glad the drivers are not turned up too far. That bad boy was shaking everything when those poor steppers could not move any further. Yikes.
Food, clean up the work bench a little bit, then get a Y endstop going.
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lol That’s how my Z sounds every time I home after a power cycle
mine does that too. if you shut that off, then after it homes you can’t home it again because the bl touch won’t extend.
So far I think this printer is bad to the bone. I can not wait to get it really moving. There were things I did not really like about the V4 (stepper mounts, X rail mount) so far I really really like this one.
Good call I need to take off the bltouch and get the biqu probe on there. Good thing the config is quick and easy.
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That’s so weird. I haven’t run into that issue before. And if I remember right you tried a different/new bl touch as well right?
I can’t wait to see you post some videos of the Ellis tuning max acceleration and speed test!
Make sure you run the belt tuning on the other one I posted first lol. That will help you get them the exact same tension. Should be easier since they are the exact same length now
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A lot to learn on the tuning end. I am assuming it goes much much smoother than Marlin tuning.
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Yes but can still be super frustrating lol. But it’s all just macros and they are very well explained on the GitHub (Kaplan shake tune) and on the Ellis dining site. Ellis has everything that teaching tech does but more geared towards klipper
I’ve not worked through ellis’ tuning yet, but I need to. I’d really like to get a bit more speed.
Bought a 3.5" resistive touch LCD that works (specifically for Pi not the BTT SKR one), but it sucks. Klipper UI on 3.5" LCD is finicky. Recommend 5" or larger.
Klipper is great for tinkerers that regularly tweak settings. Great not having to recompile and update firmware for config and feature changes.
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Bltouch: Ernest (v4) is on the second bltouch because the first one fried: complete with burn mark. FYI on the octopus, the bltouch header is the same number of pins as the btt tft screen and they are in very close proximity. If you mix and match, bad things happen, so that is why the second one is now the functional one.
The z belts jump when the bed is at the bottom because I had to tell klipper to back off 5mm before homing for the case when the bed was at the homed position and there is not enough room to deploy the probe a second time. If it was homed manually before a print started then it homes in the start_print macro, it would fail and drop the bed. I have considered putting on an inductive sensor, but this is working for now, though somewhat annoying.
Marlin has a setting to assume bed is at Z max when initially powered and will not move more positive until it is homed, for this very reason. There must be a way to do the same here. Basically when powered on the bed is given a Z max location, without homing. Anything after that obviously sets the value to a real number. If you set Z max to a very precise number it is actually very accurate.
I think there is a way to do this in klipper but I haven’t tried it yet. I know I’ve seen it talked about in certain places. It is on my list to work on when I get home lol
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