Jackpot + Wled

vicious1 · November 9, 2023, 11:44pm

Doing a quick and dirty here before I misplace the info.

Video link ---- here (soon)

WLED setup.

Select a pin to use as your input. 26 has a DAC in case you want to try something fancy with the analog controls (have not tested that). You will also need to set up all the other info like what LED’s and how many. You can also set what preset it boots into.

Choose what patterns the button presses will trigger. You will need to set some presets as well.

The three screens we need to use.

Do not forget to save your presets and settings. If you mess up with your input or grounds your wled will get erased.

Jackpot setup.

Use the negative terminal (gpio.2 or gpio.16) as you output to the wled input pin. One wire, do not connect the VMOT pin.

You can use macro’s or add them to your CAM, start, stop, and tool change. The P=seconds of delay. I did not test many values. .5 seconds still counts as a short press, 1 is a long press so the actual is somewhere in between those.

Single click
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2

Long press
M62 P2
G4 P1
M63 P2

Double press.
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2

Wiring
You really should just refer to the Wled setup page for this.

LED strip-
-power 5-24v depending on your LED’s 24v would be the easiest (or whatever your input power supply to the jackpot is. direct to power supply, or to the other Vmot output if you want to control the lights on and off as well.
-one digital pin to the wled board
-I use two negatives one to the wled board and one to the jackpot.

Wled Board-
-Vin to jackpot 5V pin
-Gnd to gnd
-input to jackpot gpio.2

I used an adjustable 24v to 12v converter. I had 12v and converters on hand not needed if you are buying new.

Jonathjon · November 9, 2023, 11:51pm

Man I can’t wait to get home and try this!!!

aeversme · November 10, 2023, 3:31am

Deffo going to give this a try this weekend!

DougJoseph · November 10, 2023, 3:33am

I know this will be helpful. I’m so far behind I don’t yet understand it all.

vicious1 · November 10, 2023, 3:33pm

Baby steps. I learned all this stuff here from all these great helpful people. As you go ask questions and I will pass along what I have learned.

srcnet · November 10, 2023, 4:55pm

Just be careful with the amount of power you need. Maybe don’t wrap your entire table (though that would be sweet). LEDs can really add up.

For example a WS2811 with 5050 RGB LEDS (24V) can pull 6A max for the 32.8ft roll. That would be full white / max brightness.

Some quick napkin math, a ~4ft strip is probably safe, assuming you use the 24v 2A supply from the store, and the Jackpot only needs 0.8A from the specifications page.

Maybe set your presets to use ~50% brightness. WLED has a software setting to limit current, though I think that just does math and limits brightness.

I wouldn’t want LEDs to ruin someones long cut job.

vicious1 · November 10, 2023, 6:38pm

Good point!

Yes, limiting the current is easy and doesn’t change the brightness all that much. If you are going full neon cowboy you need more current than the included PS.

Full X axis and a few on each Z plate should be no problem. You can even get them spaced out a little wider so you do not have as many physical LED’s.

niget2002 · November 10, 2023, 7:50pm

It may just be me, but I’d recommend running the LEDs off a dedicated power supply.

aeversme · November 11, 2023, 3:16am

Do you know if it’s possible to use two pins at the same time? Is there a way to specify an output in G-code to differentiate between, say, gpio.2 and gpio.16?

vicious1 · November 11, 2023, 4:04pm

Ummm, you can have a total of 7 different patterns using the two output ports. Three on each output and a button. You can have more if you add on a module. The same time part is bit confusing but I think you mean use both outputs, and that is a yes.

aeversme · November 11, 2023, 5:32pm

Yeah, I was not clear. I meant configured at the same time, not triggering at the same time. I see now how that would work - unset the mist pin, set the digital3-pin to gpio.16, then use M62/63 P3 instead of P2 to trigger a signal on gpio.16 instead of gpio.2.

vicious1 · November 11, 2023, 5:58pm

Yup Exactly.

bkw_17 · February 12, 2024, 2:50pm

Thanks for this post! I was able to make an expansion board with a Wemos D1 Mini to control WLED (two pin port - one pin receives signal from Jackpot, other pin sends LED signal).

There’s also a port which will allow serial connection to the M5Stack Dial Pendant.

bkw_17 · November 18, 2024, 6:33pm

After upgrading my LR3 to LR4, I finally got around to properly installing my addressable RBG’s. I ran into a couple hiccups along the way which I just wanted to bring up to hopefully help anyone else trying to accomplish this.

I am using 5V from the Jackpot board to power the Wemos D1 Mini, and using 24V LEDs which are powered off the same supply as the Jackpot board. They technically should have a common ground, however I still seemed to be getting a flickering light issue. This was solved by soldering a wire to the Wemos D1 ground pad, and connecting it to the main power supply ground right next to the LED ground. After this I had full control of the lights through WLED.

The next challenge was to get the Jackpot to control the WLED board. At first I played around with the button config on WLED and the button press timings in the macros Ryan wrote above, but that did not seem to have any effect. After further reading through the WLED instructions for push buttons, it seems that it expects this button pin to be pulled high to 3.3V through a 10K Ohm resistor. Then when the pin is pulled low it registers as a button press.

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I wrapped a 10K ohm resistor in heat shrink and left the two wire ends exposed. I then soldered one of the exposed ends to the “3V3” pad and the other to the same data pad (GPIO 0 in my case) that the button wire is connected to. I was then able to change to any of 3 lighting presets on command through the Jackpot via the macro buttons. I set the macros to correspond to “Standby”, “Job in Progress”, and “Job Complete” lighting presets. Next step will be to add the macro lines to my start and end G-Code to change the lights to whichever job state the machine is in at the time.