Jackpot + Wled

Doing a quick and dirty here before I misplace the info.

Video link ---- here (soon)

WLED setup.


Select a pin to use as your input. 26 has a DAC in case you want to try something fancy with the analog controls (have not tested that). You will also need to set up all the other info like what LED’s and how many. You can also set what preset it boots into.


Choose what patterns the button presses will trigger. You will need to set some presets as well.


The three screens we need to use.


Do not forget to save your presets and settings. If you mess up with your input or grounds your wled will get erased.

Jackpot setup.


Use the negative terminal (gpio.2 or gpio.16) as you output to the wled input pin. One wire, do not connect the VMOT pin.

You can use macro’s or add them to your CAM, start, stop, and tool change. The P=seconds of delay. I did not test many values. .5 seconds still counts as a short press, 1 is a long press so the actual is somewhere in between those.

Single click
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2

Long press
M62 P2
G4 P1
M63 P2

Double press.
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2
M62 P2
G4 P0.3
M63 P2

Wiring
You really should just refer to the Wled setup page for this.

LED strip-
-power 5-24v depending on your LED’s 24v would be the easiest (or whatever your input power supply to the jackpot is. direct to power supply, or to the other Vmot output if you want to control the lights on and off as well.
-one digital pin to the wled board
-I use two negatives one to the wled board and one to the jackpot.

Wled Board-
-Vin to jackpot 5V pin
-Gnd to gnd
-input to jackpot gpio.2

I used an adjustable 24v to 12v converter. I had 12v and converters on hand not needed if you are buying new.

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Man I can’t wait to get home and try this!!!

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Deffo going to give this a try this weekend!

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I know this will be helpful. I’m so far behind I don’t yet understand it all. :open_mouth:

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Baby steps. I learned all this stuff here from all these great helpful people. As you go ask questions and I will pass along what I have learned.

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Just be careful with the amount of power you need. Maybe don’t wrap your entire table (though that would be sweet). LEDs can really add up.

For example a WS2811 with 5050 RGB LEDS (24V) can pull 6A max for the 32.8ft roll. That would be full white / max brightness.

Some quick napkin math, a ~4ft strip is probably safe, assuming you use the 24v 2A supply from the store, and the Jackpot only needs 0.8A from the specifications page.

image

Maybe set your presets to use ~50% brightness. WLED has a software setting to limit current, though I think that just does math and limits brightness.

I wouldn’t want LEDs to ruin someones long cut job.

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Good point!

Yes, limiting the current is easy and doesn’t change the brightness all that much. If you are going full neon cowboy you need more current than the included PS.

Full X axis and a few on each Z plate should be no problem. You can even get them spaced out a little wider so you do not have as many physical LED’s.

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It may just be me, but I’d recommend running the LEDs off a dedicated power supply.

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Do you know if it’s possible to use two pins at the same time? Is there a way to specify an output in G-code to differentiate between, say, gpio.2 and gpio.16?

Ummm, you can have a total of 7 different patterns using the two output ports. Three on each output and a button. You can have more if you add on a module. The same time part is bit confusing but I think you mean use both outputs, and that is a yes.

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Yeah, I was not clear. I meant configured at the same time, not triggering at the same time. I see now how that would work - unset the mist pin, set the digital3-pin to gpio.16, then use M62/63 P3 instead of P2 to trigger a signal on gpio.16 instead of gpio.2.

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Yup Exactly.

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Thanks for this post! I was able to make an expansion board with a Wemos D1 Mini to control WLED (two pin port - one pin receives signal from Jackpot, other pin sends LED signal).

There’s also a port which will allow serial connection to the M5Stack Dial Pendant.

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