Switch what component exactly? You should only ever switch one at a time.
Do all your endstops trigger the LED to go on and off?
Switch what component exactly? You should only ever switch one at a time.
Do all your endstops trigger the LED to go on and off?
Can you show your board all populated and wired up as you would if it were to be running please.
It sounds like we might have an innocent mistake here.
Looks like thereās two problems at work here. Y2 seems like it might be a problem with the jackpot.
The Z stuff seems like an endstop is mismatched with its motor, or maybe just not connected/working.
Yes, this test. For each motor, trigger its endstop and make sure that the LED on the Jackpot toggles on/off at the correct location defined in the .yaml file.
Yes I think so. @Josef_Nyberg moved the Y2 motor wiring and config from the A location to the C location then Y2 works. Different TMCs behaved the same in the A location. That makes the Y2 motor problem look like something wrong with the Jackpot. I think youāre right that VMOT is the most likely suspect. Iām not sure what the TMCs report over the UART if motion is commanded without VMOT being high. Iād expect to see errors. Maybe the motion test with Y2 configured to the A location should be repeated and checked for errors in the terminal output.
This was all working on the SKR before the swap, so the Y2 problem still looks like itās a host board problem.
Yes they do i double checked. I think I was just unlucky and got a bad board Iāll probably have to wait until the new one arrives.
Yes, it seems that way.
Since you said you are international, I am trying to figure out exactly what is wrong for two reasons.
1- Can we fix it . That would be a lot faster for you and a lot cheaper for me.
2- How do I set up a test so I do not send out another bad board. (the boot test is fine, that part strikes me as odd.)
The wired up pictures can help us with the Z issue I think.
If you have a multimeter we can do a couple quick tests to try and track down the issue. (this might be as simple as a bent pin in the driver header (we can pop it off bend it back and it would work). If you do not have a multimeter we can do it another way.
These boards are extremely simple so fixing them is highly likely as you have proved the complex UART system is fully functional (or at least seems to be).
I have multimeter and all the equipment to be able to carry out a repair. you can email me the information what you want me to check on (josefsnickare@gmail.com. ) I am very grateful for all of you trying to help.
Easiest is just check with the 24v power on if the vs pin on your driver is showing 24V. Ground to VS pin.
And VIO shows 3.3v.
ms1 and ms2 also show 3.3v
ok i will check it tomorrow and get back to you
Trying to unite the troubleshooting here, ESP32 Tests
Hi. the new circuit board has finally arrived, after 15 minutes of wiring, everything works perfectly.
Can you PM me your order numbers please.
Okay I did something funky today, I plugged in a drivers and missed one whole side of the header. Can you please check to make sure the driver is plugged in on both sides please.
I have been very careful with plugging in the drivers. but Iāll will double check. I will measure it properly with a multimeter when I have more time. I have just tested milling with the new control board and it works really well, I am very satisfied.
Any updates on that previous board? Really hoping the pins just missed.