Jackpot and USB Connection to PC Sequence for Lightburn Operation

ahetom · December 30, 2023, 1:08pm

First off
I understand that if the PC is powered prior to the jackpot the jackpot will receive power from the USB connection and can cause issues with USB control.

My question is at the end of this post

With that said
From what I have read and experienced it is imperative that when using the USB connection to control the jackpot for use in Lightburn (maybe other software also) the following sequence must be used:

power on Jackpot
power on PC
home X/Y using macro via the console tab
home using the “Home” option in the laser tab (I do this to ensure that Lightburn will “home” correctly

This is the process I have found works ok consistently

If I try to power on the PC prior to the jackpot I know there will be a problem somewhere and operation and control starts going down the tubes

Has anyone found another way to use the USB control in Lightburn without having to power on the jackpot first or unplugging and re-plugging in the USB after the jackpot has restarted ?

Thanks
Tom

Michael_Melancon · December 30, 2023, 2:29pm

I haven’t used Lightburn with the Jackpot, but I use it for another small laser I have.

I have always found Lightburn to be a little flaky on connection. I often have to unplug and re-plug in the USB until I get it to respond to a move command.

But I’ve also never really taken the time to figure out the Lightburn interface. There may be a way to force it to retry the connection from inside the program…

MakerJim · December 30, 2023, 3:11pm

If you have the PC powered on before the jackpot, the USB connection from the PC to the jackpot will power up the jackpot ESP32 over the USB cable, while the rest of the jackpot board is not powered up.
This is bad, because the ESP32 is unable to communicate with the other electronics on the jackpot board.

When in that state, FluidNC fails to initialize properly and you have issues like you describe.

I would modify your operational list to be:

power on Jackpot using the external power supply.
power on PC.
plug in USB connection to the PC.
start Lghtburn on the PC and connect to the jackpot.

If you are controlling the jackpot over USB, I would make sure you don’t have anything connected to the FluidNC web UI while using Lightburn to control the laser.

On my own JL1/Jackpot laser, I had FluidNC home X and Y at power up (It has no Z).
I never have to do anything funky with Lightburn other than make sure it isn’t trying to use DTR to control the Jackpot. I don’t need to home it multiple times.

I have noticed at times Lightburn will get confused by a controller. I haven’t really seen that on my Jackpot/JL1 laser.

There was a CO2 laser at the local makerspace where this Lightburn/controller confusion would somewhat regularly happen as users connected/disconnected USB. That system had a Ruida controller and most folks preferred to just transfer files and run jobs from the controller.

I never bothered to troubleshoot that and have not been active at the makerspace in a long time. I don’t know if they ever ‘fixed’ the USB connection weirdness.

Michael_Melancon · December 30, 2023, 3:39pm

Mine is a little TwoTrees TTS-55 with a MakerBase LTS 1.1

I’m far from a spot to actually tackle this, but it runs on an ESP32, so now I’m curious about turning this into a FluidNC board…

MakerJim · December 30, 2023, 4:57pm

There looks to be some discussion on the FluidNC github about supporting that board:

github.com/bdring/FluidNC

Feature: Configuration for MKS LTS 1.1

opened 08:42PM - 11 Apr 23 UTC

ckocyigit

enhancement

### Machine Context I have a simple XY 400x400mm Laser engraver/cutter from mak…ibes with the model x1 but I would guess that those are just some rebranded standard chassis etc. ### Feature Description The machine utilizes a long term support kind of makerbases motherboards. Makerbase MKS LTS 1.1 I could successfully install FluidNC on it and also running it was no problem. Head movement worked however Laser and SD card did not. I've started plotting down the pinouts and connections and it seems to be very similiar to the dlc32 boards. It would be awesome if someone, who is in the matter could adapt for this board. ### Other Approaches Example config for this board. ### How I Can Help I can share pictures and try to measure and plot connections on the board,

ahetom · December 30, 2023, 6:47pm

Thanks everyone
So it looks like
If the USB connection is to be utilized with the jackpot to work via Lightburn, the jackpot will always have to be powered on ahead of the PC being powered and the USB connection made

Thanks for verifying this for me, greatly appreciated

mbamberg · December 31, 2023, 12:27am

I don’t the power-on of the PC is part of the sequence. I have a PC that is always on, but I don’t connect the Pen/Laser FluidNC board until after it has been externally powered and had about 10 seconds to be sure it’s through all the bits. After that I connect the USB cable and start LightBurn. I’ve not had any problems doing it in this order. I’m using the Dring TMC2209 Pen/Laser board, but I also have the Jackpot on my FrankenLaser and I use the same sequence.

Mike B.

MakerJim · December 31, 2023, 12:34am

Since it was in the original list, I left it in there (some folks like to turn off all the equipment when not in use,)

Its not necessary to turn the PC off when not running the laser, just to keep the USB disconnected until the Jackpot has been powered through its external power supply.

mbamberg · December 31, 2023, 12:41am

Thanks Jim, I obviously didn’t do a good job of proof reading my post

I’m finally getting all the other projects put to bed so I’m planning on returning to the FrankenLaser this coming week. The JL-1 is steaming along just fine.

Mike

MakerJim · December 31, 2023, 12:55am

Looking forward to seeing progress on the FrankenLaser.

Jackpot / FluidNC is.a remarkable upgrade for these machines.

jeffeb3 · January 1, 2024, 8:15pm

There are USB cables that don’t have power connected. You can make them yourself by disconnecting the 5V. You still need D-,D+ and gnd. I always tie a knot in those weird cables though, so I don’t grab them from the spares box in the future and lose my mind.

Michael_Melancon · January 1, 2024, 8:19pm

I’ve used little strips of electrical tape before to disable the 5V.

I do it with my Octoprint cable so plugging it in or unplugging it doesn’t mess with my print on my Ender 3 if I’m printing from the SD card

ahetom · January 2, 2024, 9:52am

I went and cut the 5v wire and that’s the ticket.
No more making sure the unit is powered up first, etc.
That should be recommended as a note in the jackpot documentation as it is simple and would save a ton of headaches
Thanks again so much for the help

jeffeb3 · January 2, 2024, 7:26pm

I would rather recommend something cheap that would fix it, and was reversible. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Cased-Power-Blocker-Single/dp/B094FYL9QT/

It seems like data blocking cables and adapters are much more common.

Cutting open those USB cables can be tricky. What did yours end up looking like? The wires inside most of mine are super tiny.

ahetom · January 3, 2024, 3:42pm

I slice the sheath about 2" (careful not to cut shielding or cut into conductors)
Unwind the cable to allow shielding to be separated
Expose and cut out a section or the red wire about 1/8" long (eliminates the conductor from re-connecting while under heat shrink)
Put heatshrink on the red wire to isolate the conductor ends from touching shield
Re-twist the conductors into shield
Place sheath back over the conductors
Seal cable back up with liquid tape

IMG_20240101_201554624~2