@vicious1 this is the lr im planning for: i mostly cut 2.44ntsx1.22mts sheets but some times i have the need for 5.00mts x 1.50mts sheets. My idea is to have 2 different disarmable steel tables. One for the normal sheets and another one for the big sheets but for me being capable of do this with just one lr3 i need it to be 1.5mts wide for it to work on both tables.
Is there a way to buy the yz plates in aluminum too?
Btw i’m working on the Nissan/Chevrolet of my country
Now I know why you want to fold that stuff so badly. 
Really interesting.
Yeah. I do use a big truck for transportation to jobsites so size ain’t much of an issue when deployed, the issue is with storage. I have settled with a bolted table wich i can disassemble and use some of the walls to hang it. But the lowrider needs a storage box and a nice place to sit when in Transport.
Would be nice to have both belts hidden inside some unistruts (wouldn’t like to take tha chances someone cut it by mistake)
Nice work!
I would only advise to wear safety shoes on a construction site (and some other gear too) 
Well, The only real issue I have with that is hardware. The screws I sell will be super long, so would I sell aluminum plates with new shorter hardware as well?
I can pay the custom order for the hardware+ both sets of plates
Ahhhhh and the Linear rail screws would need to be tapped. So M5x20 screws and M3x10 for the linear rails. The price is not insane…
Dear Ryan,
Cesar’s request has piqued my interest. Would you kindly share the ballpark price for a set of aluminum YZ plates and hardware – please?
For a custom order such as this, do you prefer corresponding via private message, Ryan?
Thank you, and Cheers,
Edrex
P.S. – I’m willing to dremel/cut off hardware that’s too long, as well as buy a tap and die set, too – if that makes life easier, Ryan!
Quote me!!!
My acrylic YZ plates were cut with 2.5mm holes for the linear rails, and I used an M3 tap in them. Worked a treat, then used M3×10 screws to attach the rails. Not sure about the M5 holes being tapped, I might rather those have the lock nuts on, but a drop of loctite would do the trick.
If i was building one for use inside my shop probably i ended up using acrylics but im planning to move it around so i prefer aluminum. Other pieces wont survive if something happens i know. Also temperatures are an issue for me and probably shouldn’t use a mostly printed machine.
All the rest is still printed. The YZ plates are the least vital of all the parts there is zero performance or durability gain from AL plates other than maybe humidity but even then that is long term.
No need for that, I tapped them in my Alu plates, broke a tap while doing, so secured with an additional nylock nut. To be honest, doing this from the beginning would have saved me some work, plus the nuts make it look more “pro” and sturdy then just a screw through Alu.
If wanted I can take a picture?
The YZ plates are the least vital of all the parts there is zero performance or durability gain from AL plates
This info helps immensely. Thank you Ryan!
