When I press the auto home button, the z goes up a little moves 10mm on the x, then 10mm on the y and stops? I tried m119 and other commands in protorface but no commands are working?
Make sure the endstops are wired normally closed.
Hi thanks, how do you do that, in the code?
Best way is to make sure no end stops are pressed, run the m119 in the terminal to make sure none are coming up as triggered, then press one at a time will running m119 to make sure each one shows as triggered
You might also want to home each axis individually, rather than using the Home button, which will do Z, X and Y in sequence.
The movement you are seeing is likely the “back off” function at work. When you start to home any (or all) axis, the controller checks if the end stop is asserted, and if so, backs off about 10mm, then moves forward until it sees the end stops assert again. Otherwise it moves forward until it does see the end stops asserted, then backs off and then moves forward once again until it sees them assert again.
The behavior that you are seeing suggests that the controller sees the end stops as initially asserted, backs off, then sees the end stops (still) asserted, so doesn’t move forward like it should. This is typical of switches that are in an open circuit state. Because the switches are supposed to be wired NC (normally closed), they will open when they are pressed or asserted. A loose or open wire will always show as TRIGGERED, regardless of whether the switch is asserted or not. A switch wired backward (NO or normally open) will show as TRIGGERED on the controller when not asserted, and as OPEN when asserted.
As mentioned above, use the M119 command to determine the state of your switches, and repeat the commands while holding the switch asserted to check whether it is an open circuit or is wired backwards.
Note that the Z Probe (not the Z Axis) is backwards from the Axis wiring, in that it shows OPEN when not asserted, and TRIGGERED when asserted (when the bit touches the probe to complete the circuit)
Check your Baud Rate, should be 250000
I took the red wire off the endstops and it’s doing the same thing, I did m119 and it says they are all triggered.
Pretty sure those endstops require power. If you can solder, solder the wires directly to the NC and C pins on the board.
That is correct and normal operation. If the circuit is open in any way (wire removed, wires connected to NO contacts and switch not asserted, wires connected to NC contacts and switch asserted), then it will show triggered.
That is somewhat misleading, but somewhat correct. They don’t require “power”, as they don’t technically do work (Watts consumed or generated), but they do require energy (Voltage) from the controller on one wire, and send that energy back to the controller through the other wire when not asserted (NC contacts).
EDIT - sorry, I am guilty of not looking carefully enough at the pictures. @john_blakley is using different switches that have a circuit board attached, which includes a LED on board. I am not familiar with this type of switch, my comments above assumed a simple OMRON type switch with no onboard electronics . Comments about the LED were referring to the SKR Pro v1.2 LEDs
I thought they needed it for the stupid led.
EDIT - see my edit comments above - I was referring to the SKR Pro LEDs, not the LEDs on the switch circuit board (which is different than most switches I have seen on V1E equipment)
@john_blakley - do you have a DMM/Ohmmeter? If so, test out the switch (remove the wire connector or power down the SKR first) and verify which connector terminals connect to the COM and NC pins on the switch. Then make sure that your two wires (Green and Black) are connected to those two pins.
Also, can you post a picture of that switch showing any labels for the wire connector. I can’t find a schematic for that switch board online. I’m wondering if the LED may need/use VCC or GND, and whether that circuit may use the COM terminal. That may complicate things.
In the past we’ve just told folks to bypass the circuit board completely, or get different limit switches.
it finally worked, it was the endstops causing the issues. Thank you for everyone who helped!!!