I don’t disagree with you at all. And yes KIAUH is awesome and helps a ton. I haven’t tried out the telegram or mobileraker. But I have tried out Oblico and that works real well.
And I agree with you about marlin completely. That’s why when I redid the V4 I just went to klipper. I was done with the aggravation of marlin lol. I used a bunch of stuff in klipper I had never done getting the V4 setup but it was all relatively easy. And with the GitHub backup I don’t lose everything if something goes wrong with the pi. I did have an issue with that at one point but @Michael_Melancon helped me out a TON getting that straightened out. Git is awesome but I just know nothing about it lol.
Idk if you run homeassistant but if so there is a moonraker addon you can use to add your printers. I use it to get notifications to my phone/watch when a print is finished
I didn’t set up my V4 in Marlin at all, everything in RRF, which I didn’t find particularly arduous. The hardest thing was learning to use sensorless homing to get the bed to Z max, and that wasn’t bad.
Of course a Duet board is a lot spendier than a Jackpot. I could have used an SKR Pro with RRF, but not with sensorless homing, because of the hardware limitations, but that’s also more costly.
Of course that’s a new path for most people here, and more restrictive than Klipper in terms of supported hardware, but for those so inclined, I think it’s an option.
This big bed, will allow me to print the electronic cover. So first print after some calibrations will be the wire hider.
So for some reason I could not update any of the 37 packages it wanted to update. The logs did not give me much info. Went into kiauh and ran the update there, clear error, with a line to run in the terminal. 2 minutes later, issue fixed and updates running. That really is a nice piece of software. I stumbled right into a fully working install.
Yes KIAUH is great for updating. It will also update all of the stuff on the Pi its self too which is real nice!!
Somewhere I posted a video to set up the GitHub backup. I’ll find it again and link it here. Any time I make a change I just run the macro and it’s saved. So no matter what ever happens to the Pi I have the printer.cfg and any other files I need to quickly restart and setup
Dont forget about this one as well. It’s good for getting everything right since you do have an accelerometer on the tool head
Considered CNC’d polycarbonate cover to show off CNC benefits, and showcase your e-brake setup, and eventually jackpot controller to curious folks? Am assuming your MP3DP v5 will be at RMRRF?
Orob and I talked about it earlier today, I was not testing the situation in which he was seeing the error. The Klipper reboot. Power up is fine for both of us but the reboot/reset seems to be faster than the relays, I have an idea to try but his solution seems more complete.
I have the Y endstop, bed and Z’s left to wire. Might take a wiring break to make the Y endstop mount I forgot earlier.
Okay I was busy packing bolts most of the day but I have the hotend/core all wired up.
X homes and moves great.
Y endstop holder was printed out, I am off by 1mm so I will reprint in the morning so I can play with some XY motion…
I have the Z all ready to go but will put it on last so it is not in my way in case I need to change anything.
I have learned a ton about Klipper and the config is going well now that JJ and orob helped find my bonehead mistake. Just learned there are plug-ins available as well. How crazy.
PS, I looked at adding Leadscrew mounts to the Z axis like we talked about. That is not a good idea on these linear guides. If you try you can wiggle them a bit, so a non-perfect screw will surely show artifacts. If someone really wanted to it is pretty easy to just add them to the side of the flat plates.
The CoreXZ is still a “bed slinger”. I guess maybe you mean “Cartesian”, as that’s what I seem to see everyone else say when they refer to printers like the Ender 3 Pro.
I see multiple definitions online on what the differences between Cartesian and CoreXZ are, but most tend to stick with whether or not the steppers move up and down with the gantry (from what I see).
I think your “greater than” comparison is probably true if you are talking about Print Speed.
That is interesting, but if I bought one, I’d be tempted to pull that part off and make it a core XY since they did the work for it and “all” you need is the bed z motion. I think this setup is asking for z calibration issues. Skew with xy is one thing, but skew offsets with xz seems another level… sorry for the pun.
The Voron Switchwire is a Core XZ setup. I think that reducing elevated weight is the main advantage. Speed in Z is nothing to worry about but the X axis translating acceleration to the frame could be an issue and is probably what caps speed on most traditional printers.
I think that is why the results from the V4 are so great. You can build a solid frame to mitigate the weight being slung around. The weight of the bed actually helps anchor all of it.
Update so far.
X & Y home and work great.
Z homes and Tilt Corrects…stupid good. I think having exact stepper locations is key. I have it sitting on a box (so the bed catch drop too far). It got within 0.005mm in two tries.
Aza, I tried doing 4 point measure and I hit and snag. My bed has diagonal corners high, and low. I let the 4 point tilt run and it could not do anything. 2 corners are high, if it moves on down (front right), it moves the other one up(back left). So it was stuck just continually probing making tiny adjustments and eventually failed to hit the tolerance. Only changed the settings to my three points and that is the first run from the screenshot.
For some reason my microprobe doesn’t like touch mode, I will keep poking at that. It triggers but errors out, so I have it retract each time and it is fine.
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