Well if I get the klipper/ jackpot board done and out for a test run then back to this. That part takes longer.
Wonder if they make a pico on a blue PCB??? Sure would look purdy on a blue jackpot LOL
Well the led is green so we are kinda matching. I guess I could make an all green one, that is the least expensive color anyway. That would be super cool. Green pico, green jackpot, all gree LEDs and connectors…we are just stuck with black drivers and blue heatsinks (we can get other heatsinks though)
lol… At least 3 times today I thought… “I wonder how long before someone bumps this thread looking for updates…”
How many times was that thought “I wonder how long until JJ bumps this thread looking for updates??”
LOL
Wrong spot
A use for my wasted post…
Just in case anyone missed the other thread. There seems to be a way to make the jackpot a wonderful klipper board. more details soon.
I suggest using these instead, as they allow to fit a lot more wires into the slots. They can be easily cut to size and they can be removed and put back super easily.
I use them on all my machines:
Actually for rigidity the best thing is really to have some rods at 45 degree. Adding one horizontal frame bar is better than nothing of course, but one rod placed at 45 degree would probably give ten times more rigidity. I wouldn’t add one at the front, for obvious ease of access reasons, but one at the rear would do the trick. The ideal being at least one on each plane.
That can also help slightly to adjust the frame squareness.
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Random ideas with orob today…
someone posted about using a zenxy for a laser. Cool. and I got to thinking about that a little. The only difference between the zenxy and a 3d printer (besides heaters and stuff) from a motion standpoint is that the printer has z motors and a cube while the zen could in theory have the same top end movement. Would it ever make sense to make a single setup for the top that could do either. I’m not saying you’d put a sand table on top of your 3d printer… but hey, there’s an idea i bet nobody tried before. but you could build a zen or build a zen and with the rest of the 3d printing hardware, make a printer out of it so it is 2 machines from the same bones.
does that make any sense or are the tolerances so much different between them that it is a stupid idea?
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I thought about this too.
One problem is scale. the Zen isn’t designed to run particularly fast, though it can run a lot faster in the V2 version than the V1 would have ever managed. Using the conduit as rail works very well for the large size, but generally takes more room than the linear rail does.
Another issue is mounting the extruder. Again, the core of the ZenXY is larger than the car of a linear rail. It does have the CoreXY belt mounts integrated which helps, but when you add on an extruder (And probe and fans…) it gets unwieldy big.
On the flipside, MGN12 rail (or equivalent) in the kinds of sizes that we might want to make a ZenXY table is stupid expensive when compared to conduit and a few POM wheels.
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The X Y Linear rails vs EMT is the biggest cost difference. in terms of size the Zen is focused on an optimized footprint to use as much area as possible.
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Hot End / Extruder Width
So I need some basic dimensions to work with.
To work on the X rail I am going to need to know the widest extruder that will be in line with the X rail.
Currently, I think a Hemera is the widest extruder we use.
A hemera Xs is ~66mm wide,
An H2 is about 70 wide.
A Hemera regular is 78 wide.
So the question is Support Hemera and smaller or drop down to H2 and smaller?
Sorry I deleted all the previous stuff because it was too much info and I was not ready for it yet.
They must’ve changed something in the matrix. I swear I posted a reply to this, but it has vanished.
V6 in a bowden configuration is probably the minimum. Though something like the E3D REVO micro might actually package just a bit smaller.
An H2 or hemera might be the largest for a single extruder.
But, it would be good to have a reasonable option for a dual bowden REVO Mini or dual orbiter direct drive.
Also, having acommodations to fit a EBB style CAN board on the carriage would be really great. This significantly simplifies and cleans up wiring to the carriage.
It would also be great to have an option for a rigid mount like the AlumiCore 2.0 that @niget2002 is fiddling around with
Is best Bang for buck, but still reliable enough to trust based on forum experience (or broader printer community), Biqu H2?
You did but I posted the wrong question.
Looking at the sizes I just posted A regular hemera is 78mm wide. I am assuming anything will fit in that envelope. Do you think that is a good maximum width?
yep.
We will save extruder discussion for next to last as that is not going to be an easy topic.
But please if you want to discuss that later have a couple picks ready to talk about.
This is the part where things are going to start stacking up so I am trying very hard to break this down to one choice at a time. We can revisit things later as this progresses if things start to get in a conflict or a better way pops up.
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Feel free to nuke replies if they’re distracting.
Yes. Seems fair that anyone wanting to do something special should have to do some special planning for it. Seems fair that you design for Hemera since that’s something you trust and use most?
Haven’t checked, but guessing that max is wider than typical voron hotend width.