Agreed. I have not used one so I can’t really try to put my own twist on it.
There is also pallet and 3d chameleon. Kind of a lot of ways to add it now.
Since we discussing enclosure, lightweight components, I thought extra tubes / space needed to run them, mounting can be limiting factors
I haven’t either. And honestly never really cared about them till recently. I joined a ERCF group on FB and asked if it can be used to swap in another spool when one runs out. Was told yes the firmware has the capability for “endless spool” That is the option I want. So many times I end up with all these pieces of spools so when I am printing a shop part that I could care less what the color is I try to use them up. Just such a pain to be sitting here waiting for one to finish up so you can chase in the next one. lost a few prints because I got busy and didn’t time it right.
Me too!
I would say lets just assume for now whatever is use will be mounted externally or to the frame somehow.
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My assertion continues to be that when you get into 300mmx300mm heated bed territory that you probably want to depend on the bed for rigidity and the Zaxis or Z motor mounts are just attachment points. Having a bed plus carrier as massive as the one we’re discussing here is just… NUTS 
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Personally, want 70C to regularly print ASA, but 80C+ would be nice to have for reliably printing polycarbonate, some people are recommending 90C+ 
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Curious to hear from anyone experienced with PC and ASA, do the Chamber Heat values (red triangles) in this ChatGPT generated chart look right to you?
Guessing not many folks are wanting to do this, most are doing PLA and PETG. So am happy try figuring out some temporary insert for super efficient, and hopefully passive higher temp printing later on.
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I had a print looking beautiful today and my chamber was only at 35° For ASA and ABS its more about keeping the drafts off of it than it is the chamber being hot, at least from what I read. But the warmer chamber does help make things a lot easier and lower your chances of failure. I have not seen anything mention higher than 60°C for ABS ASA, now PC is a different animal that I haven’t done any research on.
Thermal break…or the other way to look at is you will need a 600x600 plate to reach the edges so fancy cutting would be required or you will be heating a very large surface.
We do not need a plate, the other one was designed to work with a extrusion t bar as well.
I would think you could just line it with rockwool including covering the steppers if they are not 90C rated. Really I am not sure but a 90C chamber seems far beyond normal. You are going to liquify and lube and melt the linear rail tracks. I guess we need to add that to the list. “How hot would you want your chamber”…or “Do you plan on running a heated chamber”
I don’t know Honestly I think I skip that all together. For most cases just enclosing it will help. Getting to 50-60C seems like a good place to draw a line. I think above that everything will need to be a high heat version. Heck you would not want to build with aluminum extrusions I wouldn’t think it conducts heat so well.
LOL the voron guys have titanium backers to put in the extrusion to stop it from sagging at higher chamber temps
I searched around and almost everyone I saw say they were successful printing ASA in an enclosure said they were 40-60ºC normally
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My print today started at 41°C… sure didn’t stay there lol. That took having the bed at 110° C with a 120mm fan sitting on one corner blowing across it for an hour to get there. Once I took the fan out and start the print it slowly went down.
I think this may be a good dividing point.
It’s a fun day for me when I can bridge some personal experience in, so as a TAZ owner and knowing the team that did this… an example of what you go through when you want to use cheap commodity hardware to print materials that are actually high-temp…
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You know what’s funny about this… I was sitting here today wondering how I could keep the temp up a little bit and thought about a heat lamp we have from our chicken brooder lol. I did not go get it. That just seemed like a fire waiting to happen LOL
Your instincts are correct!
I think I need to define this more.
I want a best bang for the buck printer, that includes provisions for all the extras that are feasible but not including them.
So add a multi material unit if you want. Does there need to be anything special to make it happen?
High heat, swap everything out for high temp versions and insulate it. If we build to easily enclose, then this gets you 90% there.
800mm/s, 100k accels, sure if you get larger steppers, bigger drivers, lighter components, cpap part cooling and water cooled hot end.
Boards can be mounted anywhere you want.
Strip all those machines down figure out what the foundation is that they have in common. Core XY, good extruder mount, physical Z leveling. I don’t think I should be making it do any of that other stuff.
If one of those features needs something (EG, and Enclosure) than let us know so we try not to design it out.
My goal is not to make the best CNC, or the best printer. My goal here is to make something that is worth building and is the best bang for the buck that can be adapted to what you want, at what size you want running the electronics you want. I want to provide a clear path forward but if you venture off it that is on you to design.
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I believe the only prerequisite to an MMU like ERCF is be running klipper. And I believe any board we would use has that ability. So check this one off the list.
Agree 100%
LOL, but yes I agree. Don’t even think you would need different steppers just better drivers.
I get what you are going for here and for the most part I think we are getting there. Some of these things you have to think about the different options to be able to at least attempt to provide for them, and you wont be able to provide for every single one, just not possible. I think we are getting it down to the bones a lot though and have made some good ideas and things to look at differently (bed brake and rear motors for examples)
I know its not the current topic but can we PLEASE put on the list when the time comes to talk about the use of heat set inserts instead of captive nuts??? PRETTY PLEASE!!! LOL
I want to look into this. I’ve never tried it, but I see people talking about it, and I saw it in the Voron docs.
Do you know of any videos out there that do a good job of showing the right way to do it? I saw some heat set sets with special tips on Amazon.
I just am not sure what is required, and previously when I’ve tried melting things into pla like nuts, etc., it seemed hard to get them to align just right, but maybe my soldering iron was too hot.
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I got a set of different tips off amazon cheap and they make it much much easier. As long as the hole is molded the correct size for the insert then its super simple and works great!!! I’ve used them in some things around here like my sensor boxes in the garage that I know I’m still messing with and will need to take the lid off several times. CNC kitchen has some good videos on them
He even sells his own and the tips for soldering irons…
My concern is I’m pretty sure they are weaker. You’re relying on the bond between the teeth and the PLA. With a capture or through nut with the right orientation you get the full strength of the PLA.