I printed a few iterations of the mounts last night and I’m now happy with the y axis mounts.
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Nothing builds confidence like knowing the designer did print and test iterations until happy. 
hahaha especially when they print and iterate a day after they enthusiastically shared it! But here are the stls for that if others want to try it. I liked a tight fit on the body of the sensor but if it doesn’t fit for other people’s printers I’ll add some tolerance before I publish it.
y_axis_hall_mount.zip (166.0 KB)
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Neat! Cheers for sharing!
Anyone happily using A3144 Hall Effect sensors (or something other than AH3391Q ) ? The A3144 seem cheap and commonly available ( e.g. amzn Best selling Hall Effect Sensors ) ? I see A3144 IC doesn’t work directly with 3V3, so would need additional logic/passives. Fortunately, there seems to be many module options, many with LEDs… that enable use with 3V3 and 5V signal/GPIO.
Asking because the AH3391Q mentioned by Prof Steve seem harder to find.
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Hmm. Amazon listing says 28 volts!
Above, @Sam_Tritto had asked about A3213 Hall Effect Sensor instead of the AH3391Q-P-B that Prof. @stevempotter used originally, as it can accept the magnet being turned either direction.
Yeah, i think amzn listings can be misleading, most of the A3144 specs I stumbled across say ~4.5V to ~24V
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For sure.
Forgive me if I’m miss understanding your question. But the way Steve is using and we plan to use the hall effect switches the logic level really doesn’t matter. When a magnet is not present the out put is pulled high, the input to the jackpot board has decent over voltage protection the diodes will keep it at 3.3 volt even if you put like 24v there (assuming bat54s is tolerant of that voltage which I’m pretty sure it is). Then when the magnet is sensed the output is pulled low just like with the mechanical switches.
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This video, the maker did something similar, designed his own PCBs for this, with bi-color LEDs, and he used, for the wiring runs, 4-wire telephone wire!
He also sells what he came up with. https://www.tindie.com/products/kevpatt/creltek-limit-sensor-343rt/
Also I’m overly pleased with this idea I had. I printed basically a waffle with grooves to mount the parts to, to give them some structure. I shifted everything around in the case until I was happy. Then I dabbed some hot glue on to hold it while I soldered it using the leads.
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Nice!!
I like the snug fit. I printed all the LR4 parts again and also the appropriate sensor housing. Im just looking at the JST connector and I might have to go with a PH size connection. Since the depth of the parts and the printed part might protrude. Also I have all this great wiring from an old photocopier which is a great size and the colours are appealing 
. I had to run an additional 4 wires through the end plates and it was very tight. If I had 6 of the wires fir the endstops in the smaller gauge it would be an easier fit
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Yeah, I originally looked at mounting a DuPont connector but those are pretty long. Looking through my box of electronic stuff I have some xhp connectors which look like they’ll fit. Sometime tomorrow or Monday I’ll probably make a version to fit those. Otherwise maybe just some 2.54mm header pins sticking out the bottom would be good.
Header pins would be good, could attach the wires from the board that have a Dupont connector.
I believe these are analog sensors, not switches. NOPE - A3144E IS a switch, and would probably work fine. I am not sure how important the “chopper stabilized" feature of my ones is. Look at the datasheet and check whether temperature will affect your homing calibration.
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Those are BEAUTIFUL! Nice job, Sam!
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Status LEDs onboard, fancy.
Thanks @stevempotter going through the bright colours stage at the moment. @Dreyfus agree with that! Hold my beer, I’m on easyeda.com and looking for SMD resistors and capacitor and status LEDs. Im going to get a PCB for this, maybe flexi-rigid
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and also your Printables badges! 
(where did you find the models?)
They send them to you once you achieve that level. With explicit note. Do not share lol
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