So, I squared up the belt holders
Then I checked if my math was good for the width
I think that’ll do. Now Ive got to screw down the rail, and wire in the control board, and she’ll be ready to dance.
I think that’ll do. Now Ive got to screw down the rail, and wire in the control board, and she’ll be ready to dance.
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I had a nice precision jig all.drawn up, and then decided that since the 6’ measure was somewhat off… maybe I’d just place the clamps with a tape measure. I think it turned out well enough. The center span is about 2mm lomger than the others
I could wish for better engagement of the switch arms. I think I have switches somewhere thst engage a little closer to the screws. I may need to swap them in, or else Ill need some stops.
And, just for fun, end caps for the conduit.
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I have my roller switches outside the part, and the metal is the only part that hits. Might need to rework that.,
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Yes, I had the same issue. I even replace the end-stop with one without the roller and had the same result.
I am still getting great accuracy, I could move them in a bit I think. It just starts to make them hard to assemble.
Did a little work on the vacuum attachment today. I had a small problem. The vac hose that I have was bought to fit to the LR2 attachment, which is considerably smaller than the one for the LR3, so I drafted up a little ring that put a slightly tapered hole into a slightly tapered plug. The plug fits tight into the top part of the var part, and the hole fits the 33.x mm hose end that I have. Squished them together, and it works.
Of the 2 router clamps I printed, it turns out that the zip tie holder in one of them has something in it making it difficult to get the zip tie through, and of course, it’s the top one. (The bottom one the zip tie goes through easily. Figures. Anyway, I managed to finally wiggle it through, so now I have the hoses done. Now I just need to wire it up and I’ll be good to go.
I’m spending more time than I normally would on wire management and planning. I want this to look better, and since I have to do a lot of crimping anyhow for this project, I figured that I’d rather do it once, nicely than have to do it twice. There’s a little variability, since the current location of the control box is not going to be its final location, but it will only be moving a few inches from its current location. The difference between the length of the temporary strut and the permanent one.I just need to make sure that the wiring can handle that change when I set it up.
I do also want to set up the wiring for the laser at the same time, even if the laser isn’t here.
What I’ve seen is the laser needs a 3 wire interface to the board (+12V, Ground and PWM) which goes to its control module, and then a 4 wire interface to the laser. I think that the 4 wire interface is the better one to stretch, and have the control module mounted closer to the main board, though I think the 3 wire interface is probably easier to stretch. I’m not sure which side is less susceptible to interference and noise, but I think that I’ll extend the 4 wire harness with 18AWG wire, which ought to be thick enough to handle the power with minimal losses. It’s not like anything is going to have a truly fixed mount on the LR3, but moving in 1 dimension is better than moving in 3.
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Vac hose installed. The hose size adapter seems to work well.
Wiring started on the Duet. Im re using some of what was working on the LR2, but the overall length is quite a bit shorter, because the control is partwat towards the far end, meaning I need less wire. I’ll bundle up the excess in case I decide to go full 4’ width later.
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So close!!
Even closer ( video is unlisted )
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I’m doing the “almost time to get it dirty” dance!
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Dirty dirty…
I eas trying to use painter’s tape and glue stick. 1/10, do not recommend. Fortunately I also put some weight on the work piece. The tape was only annoying.
Not sure why but the front roller wants ro twist off of the track. I think it’s a squaring issue and will maybe resolve itself once the struts are in place.
Lol. Watched the video, I didn’t even realize that I was whistling…
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DAng, For having that bit hanging waaaaay out there and the router down low (high Z), you were ripping through that material! If you choke the bit in as far as it can go, and pull the router up as far is it will go you can get the vac pretty close to the material and it should be much cleaner.
How did it seem?
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So fast. That bit looks so big.
How exciting!
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That’s the long bit that I got for the LR2.yeah, it was up pretty high, so the vac wasn’t doing much. Should have left it off.
So yeah, up high, in the middle of the table and just the temporary struts, and still good performance.
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That was a solid test. The make your own strut idea has already passed with flying colors in my opinion.
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So with a shorter bit, it makes me wonder what kind of speed I can get out if it… The taller YZ plates give me about 140mm of Z movement. Since I increased that by 50mm, I guess that makes the stock ones good for 90, which is probably plenty, but as I said, I have this idea of carving foam, and the stock I was looking at is 2", so that means I need 50mm of plunge, plus 50mm of cutting bit, so that’s at least 100mm (102, if you want to get picky)
I have the max X and Y speeds defined currently at 4500mm/min in the firmware. I could see maybe wanting to go that fast for the laser, but now I’m wondering if I can actually cut faster… Well, probably not that fast anyway.
Oh, and speaking of the laser… The Neje shop has finally conceded that the package was lost, and want to send me another module. I guess I’ll see that in a month… In the meantime, I do have the Makita adapter printed up, should fit in the rings. I think I need to figure out the air assist though.
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What was the cutting speed in that video. Not 75mm/s, right?
Nice. It would have been better if it had gotten to your door in the first place. But at least you will get it and you won’t have to pay double. 
1800mm/min, so 30mm/s, 3000mm/min rapids.
I’ll look forward to getting the laser. I’ll just need to make sure that I’ve got things prepared for it.
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Well, that wasn’t the most fun.part of the build. Folks, If you are upgrading from a LR2 to LR3, cutting these plates first, and assembling it all this way is highly recommended. However as a proof of concept and cutting the finishing parts on the machine, it’s a good experience. If you’re new to the game, it’s a good primer.on using the machine.
The biggest advantage over the LR2 so far for.me is hold down room. I feel like I could actually use hold downs on this build. With the LR2, so many times I’d just use the Primo because holding the work down to the spoilboard was too much trouble with the minimal clearance that the gantry had. As a result I’d only use half the material, or just use the Primo. This is more readily usable for me. (Don’t get me wrong, the LR2 is a good machine, and can do things the Primo can’t for large size particularly.)
Now that’s done. Time to see if I can push it a little.
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Did you do one plate at a time? How much did you have to remove(other than the temporary plates)?