I am fairly certain I will be doing this soon.
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I’m excited to try the one I made for the DeWalt/neje. Robert made one for neje/Makita.
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I’ve already printed one for the Neje/Makita. Too bad the Neje got delivered ro the wrong doorstep.
That is a fricking bummer, I’m sure you will get your money back and a have a new laser module soon.
Pretty sure I agree about the power supply. I havr a buck boost 5V converter comijg that can supply a couple of amps, so I finished my remix for the Duet control board
Tested fofor board fit and that I can use the USB port
I originally grabbed the model with the on-board antenna, but this one has the external antenna, so I added a mounting hole for that. I left the room for the on-board, since that’s what I’ve got coming for a replacement. It’s also coming with a 7" touchscreen, but we’ll cross that bridge when we come to it. I’m using a 5" with the Primo. I think the 5" might be a better fit for the LR, because it moves, but I can swap them after.
I added my initials/logo to the case, since it’s my remix, but wanted the V1 logo on there too. I’d have added the Duet logo for this mix too, but couldn’t find one that I could convert to svg or dxf easily.
Changes to this case from before, I stretched it to 150.m in length. This gives me almost 25mm inside the case at the edge for wire management, an increase of 18mm. I added a row of vents to the lid over the drivers. Not quite the same as Ryan’s, i made some different choices there. I’ll also ve designing the LCD holder differently, probably using the slot for the LCD cables as a mouny point. The PanelDue only needs a 4 wire interface, so no need for the capacity to hold 2 10 wire ribbon cables. I also dont have anything as slick as that hand-held LCD case around, so no need to accomodate that.
I will need to test all 5 motor channels…
A more compact power supply is en route, I should have in the next day or two, as well as my 5V inverter. I have both 24V and 12V coming. I think I’ll power the board and motors on 24V since it seems possible that this could maybe cut faster than the LR2, or at least I might opt for faster travel rapids. I never tried to get better than 2400mm/min from the LR2 ever, so 12V wasnt harming anything. I’d like to run the same Gcode I currently run on the Primo with this.
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So, I squared up the belt holders
Then I checked if my math was good for the width
I think that’ll do. Now Ive got to screw down the rail, and wire in the control board, and she’ll be ready to dance.
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I had a nice precision jig all.drawn up, and then decided that since the 6’ measure was somewhat off… maybe I’d just place the clamps with a tape measure. I think it turned out well enough. The center span is about 2mm lomger than the others
I could wish for better engagement of the switch arms. I think I have switches somewhere thst engage a little closer to the screws. I may need to swap them in, or else Ill need some stops.
And, just for fun, end caps for the conduit.
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I have my roller switches outside the part, and the metal is the only part that hits. Might need to rework that.,
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Yes, I had the same issue. I even replace the end-stop with one without the roller and had the same result.
I am still getting great accuracy, I could move them in a bit I think. It just starts to make them hard to assemble.
Did a little work on the vacuum attachment today. I had a small problem. The vac hose that I have was bought to fit to the LR2 attachment, which is considerably smaller than the one for the LR3, so I drafted up a little ring that put a slightly tapered hole into a slightly tapered plug. The plug fits tight into the top part of the var part, and the hole fits the 33.x mm hose end that I have. Squished them together, and it works.
Of the 2 router clamps I printed, it turns out that the zip tie holder in one of them has something in it making it difficult to get the zip tie through, and of course, it’s the top one. (The bottom one the zip tie goes through easily. Figures. Anyway, I managed to finally wiggle it through, so now I have the hoses done. Now I just need to wire it up and I’ll be good to go.
I’m spending more time than I normally would on wire management and planning. I want this to look better, and since I have to do a lot of crimping anyhow for this project, I figured that I’d rather do it once, nicely than have to do it twice. There’s a little variability, since the current location of the control box is not going to be its final location, but it will only be moving a few inches from its current location. The difference between the length of the temporary strut and the permanent one.I just need to make sure that the wiring can handle that change when I set it up.
I do also want to set up the wiring for the laser at the same time, even if the laser isn’t here.
What I’ve seen is the laser needs a 3 wire interface to the board (+12V, Ground and PWM) which goes to its control module, and then a 4 wire interface to the laser. I think that the 4 wire interface is the better one to stretch, and have the control module mounted closer to the main board, though I think the 3 wire interface is probably easier to stretch. I’m not sure which side is less susceptible to interference and noise, but I think that I’ll extend the 4 wire harness with 18AWG wire, which ought to be thick enough to handle the power with minimal losses. It’s not like anything is going to have a truly fixed mount on the LR3, but moving in 1 dimension is better than moving in 3.
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Vac hose installed. The hose size adapter seems to work well.
Wiring started on the Duet. Im re using some of what was working on the LR2, but the overall length is quite a bit shorter, because the control is partwat towards the far end, meaning I need less wire. I’ll bundle up the excess in case I decide to go full 4’ width later.
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So close!!
Even closer ( video is unlisted )
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I’m doing the “almost time to get it dirty” dance!
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Dirty dirty…
I eas trying to use painter’s tape and glue stick. 1/10, do not recommend. Fortunately I also put some weight on the work piece. The tape was only annoying.
Not sure why but the front roller wants ro twist off of the track. I think it’s a squaring issue and will maybe resolve itself once the struts are in place.
Lol. Watched the video, I didn’t even realize that I was whistling…
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DAng, For having that bit hanging waaaaay out there and the router down low (high Z), you were ripping through that material! If you choke the bit in as far as it can go, and pull the router up as far is it will go you can get the vac pretty close to the material and it should be much cleaner.
How did it seem?
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So fast. That bit looks so big.
How exciting!
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That’s the long bit that I got for the LR2.yeah, it was up pretty high, so the vac wasn’t doing much. Should have left it off.
So yeah, up high, in the middle of the table and just the temporary struts, and still good performance.
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That was a solid test. The make your own strut idea has already passed with flying colors in my opinion.
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