The yz lift i called “wheelies” and it got really bad with a dull bit when i was cutting flooring with a ball nose for marble divots. I like your rail and bearing solution. What material did you use for that bearing rail?
My lr4 is in the basement because the garage is not workable in the winter in MN.
I did the same initially, as well as surrounding the connection in heat shrink. It still caused problems. When I did the S Bend, the issue resolved.
What’s the run current set to in your config.yaml, and which motors do you have?
The TMCs will disable themselves if they overheat or if there is intermittent connections to the motor.
Intermittent electrical connections to the motor can risk damaging the driver so we need to be really rigorous in making sure any extension cables are not flakey.
I Did the same thing with heat shrink on the connector joints.
I’ll go back and put the “s” bend in all the connector connections.
For now I completely re-wired the “x” motor and while the machine was On I was fiddling with wires and the entire machine dies…
Turns out the positive wire from the 24v supply was broken in the wire bus and I think this was the cause of the x-motor dying.
Now I need to revamp all the wiring since this is my weak point. Have I told you all that I hate electronics and wiring. (I always find a way to make a mistake here)
Stock Kit from Ryan:
#X
motor0:
limit_neg_pin: gpio.25:high
limit_pos_pin: NO_PIN
limit_all_pin: NO_PIN
hard_limits: false
pulloff_mm: 4.000
tmc_2209:
uart_num: 1
addr: 0
cs_pin: NO_PIN
r_sense_ohms: 0.110
run_amps: 0.800
homing_amps: 0.800
hold_amps: 0.700
microsteps: 8
stallguard: 0
stallguard_debug: false
toff_disable: 0
toff_stealthchop: 5
toff_coolstep: 3
run_mode: StealthChop
homing_mode: StealthChop
use_enable: false
direction_pin: I2SO.1
step_pin: I2SO.2
disable_pin: I2SO.0
^^^I think Jim hit this one on the head.^^^
I think the Intermittent connection was the 24v line in. It probably was shorting out or spotty and was “off” just long enough for the x motor driver to disable but not long enough for the entire machine to go dark.
Until I jiggled it and severed the connection completely.
This explains the “random” nature of the x-motor being disabled since a loose connected wire will “randomly” be fully connected or “randomly” be not connected and everywhere in between.
Let’s hope the issues I am having are entirely self inflicted wounds and I don’t fry too many boards.
Glow Rider v4 completed its first “job”. I did not want to run a cutting board inlay until I’ve run some test cuts first.
I quickly modeled a set of coasters with my logo and let the robot eat wood!
Video Below:
Apparently, if you give it a constant 24 volts, it cooperates!
Just for kicks, I wanted to see what depth of cut on MDF I could get with an IDC Woodcraft 1/4” roughing bit, (The Beast)
All cuts at 100 Inch/min >>> or <<< 42mm/sec Stock speed from IDC Vectric Tool Database
For reference, I was using a maximum of 2.0 mm depth of cut on my Primo
The Glow Rider v4 did 5mm D.O.C without flinching.
Video:
Based on this, I could probably cut 1/2” MDF in two passes.
For me, spindle travel speed is not as big an issue as depth of cut. Most of the Inlay cutting is in short “jerky” cuts, i.e., lots of little x and y jogs, so spindle travel speed is not as big of an issue, and in general, I would rather keep that lower than the machine is capable of to avoid tearout in the wood.
For Spindle speed (R.P.M.) I try to stay at the endmill recommendations:
This little test will help me make “informed” decisions for future cuts. In general, I think I can cut twice as deep as I was cutting on the Primo IE: jobs should take 1/2 the time to complete because my number of cut passes will be in half.
So the “variable” that I can adjust is the depth of cut.
For Inlays, the Z travel is the most crucial one. If you can ramp up the speeds there, it will save you a lot of time. X/Y aren’t that big of a change. 
I agree totally.
Do did you laser the labels on that or toolchange and run it? I probably would have manually used a sharpie instead of tool changing.
It looks like he did both. 
I see a sharpie was used too.
.5mm tapered ball nose and .5mm HB lead
