Ryan, is there a simple way to make x0/y0 at the lower right corner of the machine?
tnx.
I am not really sure if you need to. Just make all your CAM based on that location and it can work in the negative, unless you use endstops.
Why would you want that?
Where is it? and which way is positive X and positive Y?
That’s how my ShopBot is configured. If you were to look down on a 4x8 sheet of plywood with the long axis going left/right, the home position on my SB would be the lower left corner. I’d like to be able to do the same with the MPCNC machine so that I don’t have to worry about adjusting the default origin point in Aspire. I can just about guarantee that I’ll flip it and then forget to flip it back the next time I need to run a job on the other machine. 
With the SB, positive X is along the 8’ axis and positive Y is along the 4’ axis.
tnx.
g.
That is how I run it…isn’t it?
I got an email from the aspire guys yesterday. I can offer discounts on the software but only if it is bundled with a machine and I buy it in “bulk”. I might have to try it out.
Right, so on your MPCNC, which corner is the 0,0 and which way is positive X and positive Y. It can be fixed, but I need to know which way it is so I can tell you what to change.
All the photos I’ve seen of various setups have the home position in what would be the upper left if it were my SB.
Aspire is /amazing/. It’s one of the few packages that I think is worth every penny. I upgraded from VCarve Pro years ago.
I’ve got my axis mounts printed and I’ve got two machines finishing the motor mounting blocks. (two different styles). I decided to buy e-chain instead of use what I printed - that along with the 4cond shielded wire should be here tomorrow.
What’s the favored g-code sender for those that don’t use the SD card on the controller?
g.
Thanks Jeff. I think what I’ll do is take a photo of the machine set up visually how I want it and I’ll add notation on the home position. It would be more clear that way.
Tnx!
g.
You can control where it is, and which way is X and Y. It is important that the coordinates follow the right hand rule, but otherwise, they are all fine choices.
If you had your origin at the upper left, and XY was in the correct right hand rule, then you need to reverse the direction of the short axis, and make sure the long axis is X. You can swap axes by swapping cables and you can swap directions by flipping a plug.
I misunderstood. If you don’t have it moving yet, then we’ll just see where it ends up, and flip the right thing.
Repetier host, Pronterface, cnc.js, or v1pi on a raspberry pi.
Ok, I’ve apparently been hallucinating. Ryan - the way you’ve got your machine oriented is the same as I’ve got my SB. I suspect all the content I’ve absorbed over the last couple of days has scrambled my memory.
I like the idea of v1Pi. I didn’t know cnc.js existed, which really isn’t that surprising. It would be neat to get it working with a Mach3 pendant like this:
I don’t know how it talks to Mach3 though - I’m hoping it’s just a keyboard emulator, but I’ll have to do some digging before I throw money at one.
g.
How about using an old tablet? https://github.com/cncjs/cncjs-shopfloor-tablet
Or maybe a ps3 game controller? https://github.com/cncjs/cncjs-pendant-ps3 … The PS3 is a little old, and now somehow precious. This should be easy to adapt to a connected USB controller, but I don’t think it’s been generalized yet.
I’ve actually got a similar setup for my ShopBot that uses a wireless XBox controller and some software that translates the joystick inputs that the controller sends into keyboard data.
I just wanted a pendant with a wheel on it. 
g.
Thanks,
Funny I was wondering if 400W would be enough and then did the wattage calc on my HF trim router and found out that it is only 288W. Guess I should be fine!
Ryan, can you tweak that 55mm mount you designed? It looks great and it fits great, but you can’t mount it. The screw path is blocked 
[attachment file=86663]
The contact surface could be increased quite a bit since there’s really only room for a single mount in the body of the motor.
tnx!
g.
Shoot. If you move it down onto the silver band can you get two of them on there? As for the screw I need to look into it. The dewalt one is kinda like that but once it is in a slight angle on the screw driver worked…So if the screw can’t be pushed in most of the way I can make a larger screw divot I guess? I figured the smaller diameter would actually be easier to screw in than the dewalt.
The silver caps are 56.7mm in diameter. The top cap is 23mm tall, the bottom cap is 20mm tall. The spacing between the caps is 56.6mm.
With your current bracket design, there’s no “line of sight” to the bottom screw at all. Even if I could get a screw in there, no screwdriver I own could turn it.
The top screw hole is blocked around ~20% by the rising arm of the bracket.
The top silver cap is divided in the middle by the power & control cables that go into it, so it’s really not a good mounting option.
Could you design a monolithic bracket that grabbed the motor body at right under the top silver cap and again at the bottom, but around the bottom silver cap? That would provide space for three mounting holes on each side with clear sight lines for each.
Thanks!
Here’s a few pics from the build…
Squaring the carriage the “easy” way…
[attachment file=86847]
“USE ALL THE CLECOS!”
[attachment file=86848]
Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to use bucked rivets for this. It would have looked SO much cooler…
[attachment file=86849]
g.
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I see what you are saying, I assumed there was more room than the 660, but there is not. I don’t see an easy quick fix that would not mess up the integrity of the mount, sorry Gene. I have the editable file on thingiverse (under my files blank mount) if you just fill in the 660 mount to the diameter you want in your CAD of choice and you should be able to get the screws in like we do, with a little screw driver tilt.