I am for sure, going to put this one on the list too!
that little boat looks like tons of fun! my 9 year old votes for that to be the priority now 
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I was able to make a lot of progress, despite only being able to use one hand.
My next step is wiring and building the first platform to cut on.
I want to do the torsion table after cutting out the X axis additional support, but I am unclear on how to make the table to cut that out on given that it’s bigger than the ply. I have a few ideas but nothing super solid - any advice?
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I just finished cutting @DougJoseph torsion box table. Worked really well. Mine is 49"x97". He got around the need for longer pieces by joining them with half lap joints cut on the LR3. I think there are only 2 boards on his design that need to be longer than the plywood and I frankly just bought pine from the big box store in 10’ lengths and worked perfect. Hope that helps.
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is that a RAKU?
if I didn’t need to be able to trailer a boat, I’d love to end up with something like that.
I guess I can start planning it for whenever I retire…
Thank you for the quick reply, this forum has been amazing. I have two pieces of 10 foot pine but they’re not in excellent condition. The general idea of this table The 'Black and Blue' LR3 build - #103 by Neilp makes a lot of sense!
Then I can fab the torsion box table if need be. The super struts at HD were in awful condition so I just got some nice flat aluminum barstock for the roller side.
On my table, the two long parts… are metal struts (aka “Superstrut” brand, etc) from home improvement store. In the plans I offered for those with wooden “riding plates” I did suggest the possibility of half-lap joints to get the riding plates long enough.
This definitely works too!
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Ahhhh thats right. I had forgotten about those. Those are great too!
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How tight should the core be? The bottom bearings are not even touching the EMT.
Here is a video of me very gently lifting the bottom, and you can hear the bearings clicking.
Too loose.
There are 4 bearings on the bottom. 2 are “sandwiched” in a groove. Slowly tighen those 2 bolts until the bearings are in contact with the tubes. Just contact is enough, no tension.
That slot is the provision for adjusting the rail tension.
Congratulations for not overtightening things on assembly. Good job! (Seriously, better this way than overtight.)
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And when you’re doing it, 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time - it takes very little to take out the slop.
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thank you!
thank you too!
I was looking through my tools trying to figure out how on earth I did it last time. Then I remembered this little buddy, the “skrench”
it was living in the garage.
Hello everybody! I made some solid progress the past couple days. I have a question about the smaller, two pin connectors that go from the control board to the stepper motors.
My best guess is that the arrow looking indicator on the two pin connector is for power and not ground. The instructions make it seem like that would be the first pin in the little box [connection shown in red line]. Does this look correct to you all? I figured I would check before I plugged it in.
I found a super strut in great condition at menards. I checked flatness on their mirror glass polished cement floors. The ones at the orange store looked like they had been dropped from a few stories up O_o
If that is the end stop plug, you want ground and signal pin. Not power… It can do bad things if wired to ground. The end stop relay will make the connection to ground the pin until pressed, when it releases and then the pin is no longer grounded. The good news is the the polarity does not matter for the connection.
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One crappy thing about the SKR boards is they provide 5V power in every endstop connector location. with a 2 pin plug if you accidentally install it with one pin connected to +5v, it has a good chance of damaging the board.
I think my misunderstanding was, I thought I had to use all of the cables for the stepper motors. It looks like the two pin link is probably not needed and it can be powered / controlled from the 4 wires off the UART side
There are 4 wires (one cable) that go to each stepper motor individually.
Then, for each endstop switch there is a single 2-wire cable that goes to the endstop.
From the SKR page:
https://docs.v1e.com/electronics/skrpro/
Pay careful ayttention to the “X” in that picture. That’s the pin that you don’t want connected to any endstop wiring.
