I’m working on building a lowrider v3 that can breakdown 4x8 sheets. I’m hoping to have the table the proper height so eventually it can be the out-feed table for a tablesaw when it’s not being used as a router or plotter.
I want to be able to reliably cut panels for “stitch and glue” style boats. I’m starting with a small boat this summer, and hope to eventually build a small trailerable pocket cruiser (sailer) that could sleep / camp 4 people.
Oh my. Will you be using LowRider to make the barn/warehouse needed to house your Catamaran as you build/assemble? Huge impressive project, look forward to seeing updates.
Before this topic, I was content with the idea of a single sheet plywood boat.
nice small one perfect for 1 sheet ,for my dinghy i will rebuild new one the old D4 row motor sailor as i was impress how perform with 3.5hp motor in bad sea,almost finish cad all the drawing ,so will be ready to be cut with LR3 a not sur but thing is like 3 sheet
To make sure I like it as much as I think I will. Then I want to move onto something trailerable, that will sleep 4, and I can camp on around The boundary waters (inland waters between Minnesota and Canada) and in the North Cannel Area (North of International Falls MN). There’s tons of amazing remote places that I want to explore
Assuming I like that, then it’s time to build a deeper keeled vessel that can blue water cruise (like the Amigo)
I’m having hand surgery tomorrow so I’m going to try to stay up and get this mocked up so I can mess around with the programing / electronics side while I’m recovering
Stephane - it seems like plywood doesn’t really carry the old 1088 rating anymore - do use just use “Marine Grade” for your panels / interior bulkheads?
well if you decide to try it let me know- I’ll let you know how my journey goes. The designer is russian but is accessible via email and has a generic boat building guide in russian that ChatGTP easily translated for me. The only thing that was not in the plans was (i think) was this:
the centerboard case, floor timbers, etc. Horizontal surfaces are best attached to the frames using 20x20 pine bars, PUR501 glue, and stainless or galvanized screws. The bars are pre-glued to the frames before their installation. PUR501 glue is very convenient to use. This water-resistant glue provides a strong and flexible joint, which, unlike resin, does not crack under heavy loads.
But I’m planning on using 6oz cloth and fillets (or more) under the mast.
I’ve been really thinking about it! I’ve watched a few interviews with Welsford and he seems like such a good designer that I’d better have a great reason if I choose a different boat.
This first one is under 10’ so I think if I don’t put an engine on it, I don’t have to get a boat tag for it in MN (I’ll just have oars and sail).
Second boat will either be a SCAMP (I’ll have to learn how to make a canvas boom tent, but that’d be fun The more I learn about boats, the more I like the SCAMP. I don’t think it would be too much of a challenge to turn detailed plans into CNC cut files… (might be some famous last words, but as long as the scaling is right, I bet it would be fine)
or something in the 12-15’ range in a “folk boat” style would be fun too. Basically my boat plan is “water camping with two kids” and hopefully another adult, but she might prefer better accommodations…
In the Welsford Facebook group someone already has made up quite a few. Not sure how he distributes them. Im sure that’s the next logical step from lofted plans.