it will be some optical illusion, in reality, the rail is flush against the siding on both sides (at least at the bottom side, the upper is shift 1mm more to the side but that shouldn´t be an issue I think).
Both the strut & rail are 820mm long. So what you are saying is that I should add some space on both sides of 1-2 mm?
Tried to fix it today, not going to hide it, but got frustrated doing so
I removed the struts, refitted everything multiple times, and now I am exactly back at the beginning :@ with the same deviations. To make things even worse I ruined the strut because I overtightened it.
This is how the strut holes looked like. So I believe that was ok.
Since I will need new struts I will make them again in 3mm Alu, suspect that wont be an issue considering weight.
One thing I can´t find immediately though, do I cut on the insight of the lines ? At least that is how I did it before. The outerside on the outer side, and the rest on the inside of the line.
If you are going to do it in aluminum, you might as well just cut the holes and not use slots and keyholes. makes for a real nice strong fit up. I don’t think you should remake them though. Keep looking for the mystery angle.
Yes. The centers are marked and easy to drill in CAM instead of cutting teh slots and keyholes. Then you can easily trace the outer shape and cut the rectangle. Have a look at my latest build for RMRRF.
Thank you!
I do get it know. Just cutting the holes would make life easier indeed!
But maybe I should just run the regular strut in mdf first to fix my issue and upgrade afterwards. That would make sense (and give me a reason to change some other parts like shorter screws, shorten my cables a bit more,…).
The color scheme on the machine is nice. It’s making cnc looking cool!
LR3 is a decent and much more mature one compared to LR2. Like it.
Since I cracked my core a bit during initial install I thought it would be good idea to reprint one, and fix the rattling sound too.
So I concluded that the rattling sound wasn’t caused due improper tightening as mentioned in the wiki. The bearings themselves were poor quality although being brand new. Installed the old bearings from my LR2 (on the new core) and that issue was solved.
However when printing the new core my 3D printer nozzle got clogged (or how do you say that), so had to put all my prints on hold. I even could not rebuild my lr3 in the meanwhile… since I over tightened my braces and they all got cracked. Bummer. Never should have used a power tool
Anyways new nozzles arrived and I printed my parts. Grinded away some mm’s from the tube as mentioned by @vicious1 and mounted everything per instructions. Added some o-rings to avoid issues with my new struts I’ve cut.
But… when I was done, the exact same issue occurs. On the rail, the sensor side, it lifts up when traveling. Only one bearing touches the rail.
The only thing I can imagine to be the cause, is that my endstops need to be tweaked. I believe a few mm’s difference might cause the gantry to be tilted a bit.
Yeah, it does make a difference. I also had to readjust my rail where the roller is on. I just loosened them all up and let it drive up and down and made adjustments to it.
Thanks for the suggestion, the rail is perfectly straight but it won’t hurt to try it. So I’ll do that soon.
In the meanwhile I re-measured heel & toe, and see a difference of 1mm, so that’s already close. I do notice that the bottom rail side doesn’t fully lays flat wit the sidings although the rest is flat due to the 3 screws (it’s no the tube’s fault as they lay 1-2mm to the inside now). Thinking to loosen up the outer screw on the struts, tighten the whole with a belt and refit the screws while doing this.
Start to wonder if I am chasing a minor issue though
Just to be clear, the core or the rail side YZ plate?
If it is the YZ plate physically twist your machine the right way, the beam will twist and it will sit fine. Jeffeb3 had a vid of doing that at some point.
If it is the core balance the two tension bolts, test by manually turning the top bearings and feeling the resistance…
Any suggestion how to do this?
I always pull it of the rail to do so, but now I am thinking to raise z and then loosen the screws so it stays in position ?
I think I figured out my misalignment for my lr3.
The lower tube was about 2mm too long and was protruding and not letting the plates sit flat and happy. Idk if this is your issue but I did snap a pic of it. I just filed the tube down and will try it.
