It may be easier to move your RS485? At least it might make troubleshooting or other configuration easier… I know it’s counterintuitive to move something that’s already working…
I’d like to build a FluidDial, but getting the stuff for it outside of the USA is a pain, and has large shipping/border fee costs to it since stuff has to come in separate packages.
I thought about that. But there is a lot more going on with that RS485 board than there is on the FluidDial connection so I was worried about that. I have no problem not using the easy connection and making my own wiring for the Pendant if that makes it easier. I really don’t want to lose one to gain the other. But seems there should be a way to have both. That’s what had me thinking about the connections on the bottom of the ESP32
I think your only crucial thing is the M5Stack dial, which is a China import for all of us. Even us USA folks are doing an import when we order one of those. The remaining bits of wiring, connectors, and so forth should hopefully be available as in-country purchases for you. My momentary button switches were also a China import, ordered from AliExpress.
Also, if you have not checked it lately, the wiki for the FluidDial now has another option that supports a cheap square screen, and a manual rotator dial thing.
Those GPIO on the bottom of the V1 ESP-32 dev board are for access by the USB host, they’re not connected to the ESP-32 and cannot be.
There MIGHT be a way, but it will take some data sheet studying.
I posted the following in kind of the wrong thread. Should have been here. So this is a copy and paste from this post: https://forum.v1e.com/t/update-or-new-version/40835/3627?u=dougjoseph
While we await the LR4 (RC3) parts to be posted, I’m taking advantage of the bit of down time to go ahead and build my second pendant, so both my full size LowRider and my new small one, can each have a pendant instead of having to share.
As a reminder, this, my second one, has the advantage of the purchased FluidDial Starter Kit from Bart Dring (pendant connector kit).
Kit Purchase Link:
I also remixed a new printed lid to hold the new PCB with socket for RJ12 or RJ11 (6 wire) cable that goes in the pendant itself.
Printables DOWNLOAD LINK:
https://www.printables.com/model/999824-case-for-fluiddial-cnc-pendant-for-fluidnc-w-m5-st
PCB parts (kit also includes wiring and screws):
Side question, Doug, Are these the illuminated switches you used for your pendant?
Thanks,
Anthony
Those do look pretty much identical to the ones that I ordered from AliExpress. I would mention a couple of things. The Amazon listing says 36 V. That would be the max of a range. The AliExpress listing says something like 9 V up to 30 something volts. Just be aware that while they can accept a range of voltage without blowing up, if you run them at 24 V or more, they run very very hot. And that probably will shorten their lifespan. So if you’re building a LowRider with a 24 V power supply and you don’t have some kind of voltage regulation between the board and the illuminated LED buttons then you might want to insert either some resistor or buck converter or something to dissipate some of the heat and voltage before it makes it to the LEDs. They’ll burn cooler and should last longer. Obviously, I got them cheaper on AliExpress, and ordered a batch of about five different colors, two of each, for a cheap price, because I had time to wait for the slower shipment.
@Jonathjon - can you open a new forum topic and note your wanting to run both Bart’s RS-485 spindle controller and a FluidDial pendant?
I did some poking around and I think we may be able to modify the spindle module to pull of some GPIO and get all of that working together.
I need to see your config.yaml for the machine with the spindle controller first, to consider a couple of things.
Yes sir will do!
OK, so my new, correct cable was delivered today. However, while my old pendant with old wiring connects perfectly, the new pendant with new wiring powers on but does not connect. So now I am the one chasing down a problem.
Cable seems right.
powers on but does not connect
Hmm. I ran $SS via my phone (wifi), while the pendant was connected, and this it what I saw:
$SS
[MSG:INFO: FluidNC v3.8.0 https://github.com/bdring/FluidNC]
[MSG:INFO: Compiled with ESP32 SDK:v4.4.7-dirty]
[MSG:INFO: Local filesystem type is littlefs]
[MSG:INFO: Configuration file:config.yaml]
[MSG:INFO: Machine LowRider]
[MSG:INFO: Board Jackpot TMC2209]
[MSG:INFO: UART1 Tx:gpio.0 Rx:gpio.4 RTS:NO_PIN Baud:115200]
[MSG:INFO: UART2 Tx:gpio.14 Rx:gpio.13 RTS:NO_PIN Baud:1000000]
[MSG:INFO: UART2 Tx:gpio.14 Rx:gpio.13 RTS:NO_PIN Baud:1000000]
[MSG:INFO: uart_channel2 created at report interval: 75]
@jeyeager and @Jonathjon the UART2 stuff and the transmit and receive channels look right, correct? It seems to the same as what Jonathan got and which worked:
Only thing that stands out is this line is duplicated in the $SS output.
Tried swapping the TX and RX pin definitions?
I noticed that. Not sure what to make of it.
I can try that, but based on @Jonathjon having his working, with a Jackpot like me, and with same Starter Kit PCBs like me, all without having to flip his TX and RX, it does not seem likely that could be my issue. ?
Unrelated update: the FluidDial Starter Kits are back in stock, but it’s currently showing only 4 left.
I got the pendant working. It was a loose connection on one of the data cables. 
Hello All,
Currently building an MPCNC (and waiting for LR4) and wish to incorporate the M5 dial. I purchased the wiring kit from Tindie and like the idea of using the RJ12 connectors. My question is if the connector on the jackpot side is pinned correctly for the jackpot board. and if i can use it as is? Also not sure of the orientation of that board.
Next question is i ordered the momentary push buttons from aliexpress but they have 4 pins instead of 2, will they still work? Do I just wire 2 opposite pins?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
John
The tindie kit works with no modifications on the Jackpot board. There is only one way it can be installed, if you line up the mounting hole and the electrical connector there is only one way it can fit.
We need details on what you purchased. If your pushbutton switches have lights/LEDs in them then we need to account for that when you wire up your buttons. Pictures and/or link would be helpful. Worst case, we may need to make some DMM measurements of your switches to establish what the correct wiring will be.
I can confirm this. Remember that the GPIO numbers on Jackpot are different, so when adding the new code to your config.yaml, instead of going by the GPIO numbers shown in the wiki, use the ones from this thread.
If you bought the same ones I did, two of the pins are for power to the LEDs, and two are for detecting when the switch is pressed down. For the LEDs, I recommend 12v DC power. They can accept higher voltage, but at around 24v they run very hot (make the whole button casing hot to the touch) and very bright, and it would likely shorten their lifespan.
If you look closely at the bottom, there is a “+” and “-” on two of the pins. I think that’s where the LED power goes.
Just a comment about how the Tindie kit works.
The power sent from the Jackpot board out to the FluidDial pendant is VMOT (Incoming power to the jackpot). You don’t get to choose anything else in what gets sent to the pendant.
It is FAR preferrable to run the Jackpot system at 24V compared to 12V.
So, if you picked poorly and got 12V buttons it would be a good idea to either pick a different cheap button or to not hook up the LEDs than to compromise the performance of you system by lowering input voltage to the Jackpot.
Just another bit to add to what @MakerJim said.
Getting 12v for LEDs while having 24v for the Jackpot, is actually super easy if you got the Starter Kit, because the Starter Kit is doing something that reduces the voltage before sending power to the other end where the pendant lives.
I have 24v power supply feeding my Jackpot. I plugged in the starter kit’s PCB on the board side. It sends power over to the pendant side. I used my multimeter to measure the voltage coming from the PCB on the pendant side, and I think it was something like either 12v or 14v or some such. So, just split the power output that’s headed from the PCB on the pendant side, going towards the M5 dial, and use that for the LEDs.
Otherwise, if you are not using the starter kit, you could put a buck converter into the pendant, or near your board.
EDITED: I was apparently mistaken in thinking the PCB of the starter kit is reducing voltage, so the buck converter mention is the only part still valid here.