Estlcam v-carve inlay?

Software / Firmware
1

Perhaps this should go in Troubleshooting, I am not sure. I do not believe the problem is with the machine, but in my use of the Estlcam software.

I’ve watched the v-carve tutorial here:

An I am able to reproduce this result. Now I want to go further, and fill the pockets with wood instead of paint. So, I found some videos:

http://forum.vectric.com/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=7241

And I try to reproduce it myself. I have attached some Estlcam project files, g-code files, and svg file on which I base my design.

I am using a 1/2" diameter 90 degree V groove bit. For the female piece, I set start depth to 0 and max toolpath depth to 0.2. For the “male” piece, I set start depth to 0.1 (to shrink the top to create overlap) and max toolpath to 0.4 in an attempt to get more overlap room in the sharp corner area. It was unsuccessful and produced vertical sides in my second attempt. Router output seen here:

https://imgur.com/a/AdnJ7
https://imgur.com/a/ogI6E
https://imgur.com/a/S4GHG

As seen, the pieces do not align properly, because of rounded corners I think, but I cannot see through the pieces. Taller K unexpectedly has
vertical sides. I hope with this technique to get sharp corners always. Clearly I am a beginner, and the problem lies with me instead of the
program or router, but I am unable to see the problem.

Is Estlcam able to make this kind of inlay? I find Estlcam very easy to understand for most operations, but doing this kind of inlay was a primary goal in building my MPCNC, so if Estlcam cannot do this operation I must look for other softwares.

Much thanks in advance for any help :slight_smile:

vtest.zip (383 KB)

2

I am not sure if that is the correct bit to attempt an inlay… I would think you would want the edges vertical for easier “drop in” of the inlay.
Although it should be possibly to make a negative of the K with a V bit would have to be backwards. The rounding of you corners is probably related to your tool paths.

3

Hello Jason! Thank you for your reply!

Sorry if I am not clear. I understand how typical inlay is done with a straight bit. Cut on the inside with pocket for the base piece, and outside with holding tabs for the insert piece. The problem with this approach is that the corners are limited by the radius of your cylindrical bit. I want sharp corners for my inlay. Using the V-groove bit it is possible to get sharp corners using the Carve tool in Estlcam by varying the height of the bit as it moves. The videos I link to above describe how this technique can be extended to inlay, allow for the inlay piece to have crisp corners. The only way to achieve this is with a groove bit, so it is what I try to use.

Making the negative of the K with a V-bit does indeed sort of have to be backwards. This is achieved by doing the cut on the outside of the line rather than the inside, so the bevels will match when the insert piece is flipped over. To fix the size problem (by default they won’t fit in each other because on the surface they are the same outline), you set starting height on the insert piece to some positive value, and the angle of the bit will produce the desired shrinkage.

I understand that it is difficult to understand. Also quite difficult for me to explain. And clearly I cannot understand it very well, because my tries at it do not work. Thus I ask for help :slight_smile:

4

This is all a bit above my head yet but I am sure someone more experienced will chime in shortly. I will be interesting to see how its done

5

Let’s kick this old topic. Has this been solved in the meantime? I’m searching for the option to create the v carve inlay within ESTLCam.

6

I had the same problem using F-engrave to attempt a v-carved inlay. It turned out that the problem was in the way the software deals with overall depth of cut greater than the cutting depth of the bit. If you have a 1/2" diameter 90 deg bit, and you do the math, you find that the maximum cutting depth or the bit is .25" When the cut is deeper than that, you wind up with a vertical cut above that line because the side of the bit is not continuing the cut at an angle. In the example above, where you are using a max depth of 0.4", you exceed this 0.25" limit and the software does not correct for it, giving the results you are seeing.

The remedy (unless the software has been updated) is to either use a shallower cut, or a steeper angle on the bit. In my case (using a 1/8" diameter bit on a hobby size machine), I had to change from a 60 degree bit to a 30 degree bit to get the depth I wanted on the part. As long as I didn’t exceed the theoretical maximum depth for the bit, it worked out great.

I recommend using a program like CAMotics to preview the results of your g-code. This often gives you the insight needed to head issues like this off at the pass.

1 Like