I’m starting to print up the parts that I need to upgrade to a LR3 and studying the instructions. I have a LR2, but its not easily accessible at the moment (and not fully setup). I plan on stealing several parts from that L2 for the L3. My LR2 was not setup for endstop switches and I have ordered a set of endstop micro switches online. Where do I get the wires to connect the switches, which can be seen in this image? Or, what specs do I need to look for?
The wires in this photo which use a spade connector to the switches is shipped with the Rambo board by the manufacturer. I use these wires on my MPCNC, and once in a rare while the spade connector gets knocked off and I have to figure out where to plug it back in. I wish I’d soldered the connection, but it’s not a big enough problem to pull my Primo and do the job retroactively.
If you don’t have these wires, then what you will want to get will depend on what motors you have, what harness you will be using, and how you plan to do the wiring. Ryan sells these wires. They are approximately the length of the stepper cable that is hardwired on many stepper motors. They span the distance from the endstop to the stepper extender wires (6-pin) that comes with V1 kits. They won’t span the full distance from the control board to the endstops.
The connection at the control board can be made with female DUPONT connectors. The connection on the other end are small spade connectors or they can just be soldered.
Thanks for the great reply. I have the SKR Pro and motors and harness that I purchased from Ryan with the hardware kit for the LR2 (with the SKR). I may have to wait until I have the LR3 built before I can figure out what exactly I need.
Assuming you are willing to solder the wires to the switches, all you need is 5 of the wires I linked to in the V1 store, or something similar. Ryan’s harness is 6-pin, so you are just trying to bridge the gap created by the length of the hardwired stepper wires.
As a side note, we’ve seen some homing problems with some SKR Pro boards. The symptom is endstop LEDs coming on, but the machine continues to home. If you see this, see out the topics on the forum for workarounds.
They didn’t fit the Z stops, so I soldered those. Wish I’d used spade connectors on the Y-Axis endstops instead of soldering. With spade fittings I could replace the endswitches more easily. Reason… If the metal spring arm gets knocked out, you can usually reattach without replacing the switch. However…
The y-axis switches are proud and vulnerable to being knocked/broken if you’re frequently stowing the LR3 away. Designed/printed a Y limit switch guard/fender to help.