I bought a 9 pack of servos for like nine bucks. I’m wondering if this one is a dud. As soon as I plug in the board, the servo starts at a low pitch and slowly increases in pitch over 1-2 minutes. So probably not a board configuration because its before it even fully boots and that I’m using the .yaml James provided and he’s not having issues.
I’m going to swap in a new servo tonight.
Definitely a servo issue. I probably abused it by strapping it on too tight before letting it get to zero upon startup (it seems to move once Powered on) or something but a gear is definitely off of it’s axle and grinding in the bigger gears. New servo works fine using the Z jog commands. Now to tighten everything down and learn the gcode side of things!
Yeah. Steppers should always be turned on with no control horn the first time. Broke a part of an rc airplane because of that oopsie one time.
That is definitely one way to make sure you never make the same mistake again lol. That would really put a damper on my day, I much prefer my way 
this is the first time I’ve wired up a servo so I’m content with the learning experience.
After some debating on which way the server goes and double checking the rubber band routing, I boiled some eggs and tried it out!
Using estlcam for control since all but the Hershey text box for the inkscape plugin was greyed out. 1 mm tool head for a gel pen seemed about right.
First test and the z axis seemed reversed. Followed the advice of editing the .ymal to swap the min and max_pulse_us (min to 2000, max to 1000) which made the directions a bit more intuitive for me and as well as making the file work.
Now to play around with making more complex files that don’t crash the pen holder into the steppers (totally going to happen a few times) and optimizing clearing planes, cut depths, and speeds in ESTLcam. Probably also need to beef up free spinning axle, its kinda crooked.
Lots of fun though!
For my Eggbot I found that a 2mm doc works best. I’m using 900mm/m for my feed rate.
Surprisingly, a gell ball point pen doesn’t work the best. Skips here and there.
I added a second brace at the end of the 2060 and that did a lot to stabilize the free axle and making it easier to center the egg along its axis. Jason has a modification that stacks multiple bearings into one upright which would also probably work well. I wanted the horizontal bracing though and don’t think I’ll get to the end of the adjustment with normal eggs.
I’ll get some permanent markers to try out. I think my niece and nephew will get a kick out of it as much as I do and that’s the main goal
Working up a “it’ll work” case for the board.
I added a second brace at the end of the 2060 and that did a lot to stabilize the free axle and making it easier to center the egg along its axis.
That’s a great idea. I’m printing one out now.
Ultra-fine point sharpies are my go-to. Even 3-d printed a “crown” to hold them all.
I started printing parts for an eggbot.
Good luck! Don’t forget to use Jason’s parts where applicable, they were designed better.
Full rotation around the egg worked out well. Now to practice a full, continuous wrap design. Think I’ll also swap the X motor (pen control) to make the small end point up. Change the hardware instead of trying to fix in software.
How are you doing your cam for the eggbot?
I’m using MillMage for mine.
I’m using ESTLcam. Set the cut depth to 1 mm and the clearance plane to 1 mm and then zero the servo with it raised a half a mm or so. If you’re using a jackpot for a lowrider, there’s no other changes needed in estlcam except seeing up a small diameter tool.
I’ve done it in Estlcam, DrawingBotV3, and some generated gcode for generated art in P5js.
p5.js Web Editor | Egg Spirograph 50
I haven’t tried it with MillMage yet but I will.
You have 40-50mm across the egg and 160mm around the egg.
So, I turn on the eggbot, force the pen holder straight up. I have X as across the egg so I’m at half X. I put the pen in close to the egg.
My starting gcode looks like this (X25 instead of X20 if 50mm across).
G54
G90
G53 Z1
G92 X20 Y0 Z1
G92 Y0
G0 Z1
G0 X20
A pen change looks like this:
G92 Y0
G0 Z1
G0 X20
M0 (MSG Change to red pen)
Using the G92 Y0 depends. If you went all the way around the egg, you don’t want to have to go all the way around the egg again to be back to zero.
The original eggbot extensions for Inkscape recommend defining your canvas to have the same number of pixels for wrapping around the egg as you have microsteps for one full rotation of the stepper motor. That way you never have to “do the math” to change the design for different diameter objects.
Anyone doing this via lightburn?
That makes a lot of sense to pixel map.