I really like the cabinet grade stuff so I choose that everytime. I just like that it looks better when I look at it.
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Yea I’m totallly on board with you Lou. On the website, the RTD looked good, in person, not so much. So cabinet grade all the way for me, no question about it.
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Just wow again and again 
Thanks! I can’t help it, I’m just amazed still!
The really cheap plywood can also be tough to mill. You can find huge voids, or that the veneer is just too brittle and not well adhered. The result is a splintery mess on the veneer. I hope the cabinet grade stuff works better for you.
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I didn’t get anything today. I’m still looking around for other alternatives. Do you have any suggestions? Something that mills good, and isn’t horrible wood?
I wouldn’t use the cheap stuff at Lowes to build a dog house. Huge voids in it.
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I am guessing the cabinet grade stuff is fine. If you really want to spend money on it, the 60"x60" baltic birch from a lumber or hardwood dealer works great, but a 3/4" board is going to be closer to $80.
@barry99705 thanks for that. I don’t need that happening. I’d rather not build ‘disposable arcade cabinets’ haha
@jeffeb3 Yea it’s HIGH. But true to measurements too! 3/4 is actually 3/4. That Birch I bought last week was $66, and that was just run of the mill Birch plywood from a local lumber yard. I might actually go that route again. I did enjoy the smell of that birch. And man that stuff is pretty.
I’ll agree with the other statements. I try not to use the construction grade stuff on any projects. The cabinet grade is a lot nicer to work with.
There’s some really really nice plywoods out there if you were building stuff that you want to show off the wood. If you’re going to cover it, I’d just stick with the basic cabinet grade stuff.
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According to Anderson Plywood,
MDO is produced with a high-quality thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to one or both sides under heat and pressure to create an exterior-grade plywood panel.
If I recall my New Yankee Workshop, Norm described it basically as having kraft paper bonded to the surface(s). He used it a lot where a painted surface would be adequate.
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I really like Baltic birch but real Baltic birch is metric so your thicknesses will be 6mm/12mm/18mm etc… you need to adjust accordingly. It’s such good quality I wouldn’t be surprised if it handled arcade cabinet T moulding. Plus like you mentioned you can only get them in 5x5 sheets at least around here.
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Yea that’s another reason I think they manufactured arcade cabs with MDF sides. For the T-Molding. Plywood, isn’t good for it. And will tear all to hell and back. It will look like Barry’s wood in his album. I have some original cabs left, and I have to say, 99% of them are MDF sides, and plywood bottoms, tops, and backs. My Ms Pac-man is that weird looking waferboard (as I call it) on the sides. Everything else is ply.
MDO is nice, but I’ve not tried milling it yet. I thought about building my lowrider table out of the stuff.
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I’ve heard of something called ‘Ply-Core’ It’s basically MDF on the outside, and plywood on the inside. Or maybe that’s the other way around. But it looks like MDF until you cut into it, and see the layers. Easy to finish, light as ply.
I’m at my shop cutting the cabinet grade plywood I just got back from HD with, and everything is going smoothly. Fresh bit in it, she’s cutting nicely.
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Been a minute since I updated this thread. Work is still going on, it’s just moving a bit slower than before. Thanks Covid-19!
So here we go. Since the last time I posted photos and build-up of my MDF Prototype cab, I’ve actually cut the production cab. Plywood bottom, Top, Back, Back Door, and Scoreboard panel. The only MDF pieces are the front, sides, and lower marquee. Just like the original.
Shameless Plug: If you’re wanting to add a CNC to your arsenal, and you find this page. You see a Lowrider v2, and oh man it’s got Roller Blade wheels, and alot of plastic. DO NOT LET THAT PUT YOU OFF! Build the damn thing already, 'cause it’s an amazing piece of machinery. This cab is proof. 
Ok So here is what I’ve gotten done since my last post.
All the parts are cut, tho not visible in the photos because I opted to leave them off since I gotta paint them. I hate painting.
Is the lowrider v2 accurate you ask? Yes it is. Look at that back door. Sitting in there perfectly.
GAH did I mention I hate painting? 1st coat of primer laid down. I think I’m going to talk the wife into a HVLP sprayer for my birthday since it’s right around the corner. sigh
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Get one that can do unthinned latex. They work better, though it will give you a slight orange peel texture unless you thin it.
Do you have a recommendation? I was looking at that $100 turbine one at Harbor Freight, because of the good reviews. But if you know one that’s better, I’d grab it instead.
This is the one I have now. I’ve painted all the trim in my wife’s old office with it, and my dad had done a pretty good amount of his garage with it.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Flexio-3000-Handheld-HVLP-Paint-Sprayer/1000333963 I also use it to spray acrylic on my shop projects.
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