Me either. Probably because I’m not a “DANGER” user LOL
It’s Klipper without Kevin’s feet dragging of updates and feature requests. 
Klipper’s default pid tune is flat out wrong. Is one example.
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Can you elaborate on that? Not at all saying you are wrong I’m just curious.
Also how dangerous is dangerous? I know how to use Klipper but I am by NO means good at it. So I’m not sure your version is something I should be dipping my toes in or not LOL
I have only ever used klipper on my printers. My current setup is Manta M8P with CB1, the H2V2S revo, and it’s a dream to make changes and tune. I have the BLtouch and it’s super easy to program, my config is below.
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: PD13
control_pin: PD12
probe_with_touch_mode: true
x_offset: -28.2
y_offset: -36.69
[homing_override]
gcode:
G28 X Y
G0 F3500 X150 Y185
G28 Z
G0 F3500 Z15
_cztilt ####### this macro runs z_tilt_adjust only if it needs to
G0 F3500 X150 Y185 Z15
G90
axes: Z ####### Ony affects z axis (or all axes) homing
[z_tilt]
z_positions: 31,70 #z
295,70 #z1
165,327 #z2
points: 31,70 #z
295,70 #z1
165,327 #z2
speed: 350
horizontal_move_z: 5
retries: 10
retry_tolerance: 0.04
Happy to offer any help if needed!
d
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Step one complete.
The h2 has been mounted onto the geeetech clone.
Stock mount
Adapter plate. I’m no blondiehacks, but it works.
H2 mounted
Print nozzle clears the bottom
I may need to rotate the nozzle 90 degrees. I hope that’s possible. I can always drill new holes in the mounting plate and lower the nozzle so the wires clear the bottom of the carriage if needed.
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Voltage question for those with the Manta board…
I assume I can feed the 24v into the board for both the board and steppers. Use the 12v fan pins to power the fans. And use a 12v step-down converter to feed power in to the ‘heatbed in’ to power my 12v bed…
Does that sound correct?
We probably need some more details about your setup.
This is true.
Also true.
Here’s where the snag is. Your heatbed probabably needs considerably more current than most buck converters can supply. The manta does appear to have a separate input for the heated bed, so you could in theory keep your 12V supply and just wire that to the heatbed inputs, and then your 24V supply can run board and steppers.
But, it sounds like you want only a single power supply.
Maybe put the heated bed output from the board into ssr and gate the 12v through that… but it would still require 2 power supplies or a buck to get the 12V
Exactly.
This was going to be my question and suggestion if it has the separate power input. Honestly your best bet
hmmm as I look at my 150W laptop 19.5V power supply… got a few of those laying around.
The buck converter I bought is good for 20 amps. A 12v heat bed with a 1.2 ohm resistance should only pull 10a.
A 120W heated bed? How big is the bed (200x200mm)? If you only pull 120W and have a 20A 12V buck converter then yes, that would work. I’d make sure you have a good fan on the heat sinks of the buck converter.
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Yes. It’s a smaller heat bed. I’ll remeasure the resistance to verify. The ohms I mentioned were pulled from the web.
I got the MP3DPv4 printing again, so I can start designing mounts.
Snagged a picture of the original extruder for a comparison.
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I do have the original 12v powersupply for the old controller, but 2 full size ps seem excessive.
Huge reduction in mass, significant improvement in performance. What’s not to like about that?
I have a similar quandry. I have a large format printer (Colido x3045) that ran on a big beefy 12V power supply. It’s proprietary controller died and I’ve intended to rebuild it with a different controller- but running 24V electronics with a remaining large 12V heated bed just doesn’t seem right somehow.
It’s likely going to get given away if anyone from the local makerspace wants it, and I’ll finish building my repeat as a V5.
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some of the newer electronics with do between 12 and 24 or is it a speed limiting issue?
On that system, it has a ~350W 12V heated bed, so the rest of the 12V electronics are just a small additional load.
I would prefer to run the whole system at 24V, but as soon as I replace the heated bed it goes from a small project to a big project. I’m not sure I want that system to be a big project.
The big 12V power supply and the existing electronics take up a majority of the space at the bottom of the printer in an enclosed bottom area. Adding a 2nd power supply probably means bolting it to the back, and again at that point it becomes a bigger project.
It’s something of a sunk costs fallacy, as I spent a LOT of money to buy it when it was new, but the same dollars today buy much much more printer- and further I had it at the local makerspace when someone broke it, making it a double bummer.
But many times it’s better to just move on and not try to recoup sunk costs.
Why don’t you get an SSR and get a 120v bed heater. you don’t need another power supply for that and the SSR is pretty small. This would also easily work with your Manta board.
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