Oh, ok, that makes sense.
Maybe not the best topic to discuss this but wouldn’t it be better to only use your spoilboard for the vacuum hold down (or a removable layer above), instead of the full torsion box?
I used to think the PLA humidity problems were all bogus, because I have never had problems. But the relative humidity in my office averaged about 18% in the last 24hrs. So maybe the reason I don’t have problems is because of where I live.
I really need to do some research on making some dry boxes for all my printers. Y’all with that low humidity have it so much better than you realize lol
Yeah, I feel your pain. You may or may not find something useful in THIS thread.
We’re going through a dry patch at the moment, but here’s the current humidity readings at 12:45am - just as well it’s cool, or I’d be up all night on the computer instead of trying to sleep!
I made those dryboxes (Printables), combined with magnetic connectors (Printables). They are really good (when you add a little spacer between the rolls).
I only need to fasten a few screws for the back strut plate, drag chains for X and I need a button for the autosquare, but besides that I am done.
Running the lowrider with 8000mm/min for travel. I did try 20000 just for the lulz, but one motor was skipping steps and it ended up twisted. Nothing broken though. I also rammed into an endstop, but I was able to bend it back.
Yes the item in the video has a different size, but it was meant more on how the thing is constructed, as I am not sure if 1 or 2 venturi systems would pull enough for large formats (and how much air your compressor needs to pull).
If you’d take a 10mm multiplex and glue a 5mm mdf onto it, you have an acceptable thick spoilboard of 15mm?
The channels for the vacuum table get cut in the table. I just hid the pipes in the torsion box, in the last version they were below the table, just didn’t look good. On top of the grid I am going to put an MDF board as spoilboard. I have a two-stage sidechannel blower that does a good job holding large workpieces. Small ones do not work though.
Regarding the small pieces, it makes sense as there is a) a smaller area for hold down and b) probably you are loosing capacity around the object. You could try to cover the unused areas with for example plastic so you can obtain a larger vacuum.
Yeah. Best to always stay on the loose side. A few test cuts of pen plots will verify tension easily. When you do the squaring you can verify the total length per belt.
First work done with the lowrider! It just sounds softer when moving, over are the times of the chatter in the middle.
I have a 0.22mm difference between the two sides on Z, I think I can live with that. The other axis’ seem to be on point, though I could only roughly measure.