I feel like we should consider spindles. It seems like they don’t cost as much as they used to and are more quiet, speed controlled, and potential help with dust collection.
This is the one I am looking at now
The G-Penny spindle is the same one sold in the PwnCNC kit for $850.
Thoughts? This seems pretty complicated still.
They are most certainly an option. This one looks pretty dang good. I am willing to giv eit a try any other suggestions?
I would certainly add this to the options list but a makita is ~$100 and does most all the work this one does.
I think all of these Chinese spindles are pretty similar. I’ll give it a try too. Worst case I can return to Amazon.
I think I’ll be happy to pay ~$150 more to reduce noise alone.
I have said this a lot but my vac is louder than the makita router and I have the Dewalt Stealth vac.
I have a modded harbor freight dust collector. It is definitely not quiet, but its more of a hum than an annoying shop vac
I think we can use the Kobalt ER11 collets on this spindle
I have another spindle that is a bit of both worlds and the cutting noise/vacuum are also louder. 
This is the cable I am going to use between the spindle and VFD.
16AWG-4Core / Shielded.
Not really any great options on Amazon, but I can replace later if needed. I probably could use 18AWG for a 110v 1.5kw spindle, but since this is tinned copper core wire, I figured 16AWG would be better.
I use a vevor er11 220v spindle on mine and it is most definitely a ton quieter than the kobalt. And my harbor freight dust collector is in a lean to outside of my shop. Very nice pair for sure
You ever get speed control working? I was trying to follow your prior work, but looks like you gave up
I started with one of the cheap crappy spindles and had severe runout issues. To be fair, it’s one of the ones that looks a lot worse than this one, so hopefully these are better. If you do go down this path, I’d recommend also making sure you’ve got a way to measure runout. Saves a lot of broken endmills…
I just grabbed a dial test indicator and stand from work but there are some slightly sneaky ways that I’ve seen as well.
The source of the runout turned out to be the grind on the taper itself, nothing bearing related. The outside of the spindle nose ran true, as did the widest part of the collet taper, it was the narrower end of the collet taper that showed runout so I guess technically it was that the tool ended up mounted off axis, rather than runout as such. Either way, bad.
I did when I switched to the jackpot. I have a Huynang (sp) vfd so i got the RS485 board that plugs into the jackpot. It’s real nice. Just make sure you pay attention to what you have set in Estlcam for rpm lol
Nice. I’m going to try and make it work on my SKR first.
I use a spindle/VFD combo and HIGHLY recommend. Much quieter, speed and direction control through G-code have been a game changer to me. One drawback is you kinda need 220v. They have 110V units but they draw alot of current.
I might lucky, but I measured very little runout on the spindle taper… .0003. I used this one:
I use a 2.2kw water cooled spindle, beats using a router as no worrying about cooling and noise is considerably lower.
Another advantage of buying an EV. I have a 220V nema 14-50 in the garage now.
@Jonathjon are you still using this spindle mount?
On the LR3 yes that’s the one I use
Looks great! Throw that pic up as a make on printables!
