Why not use the A axis as the rotary? That way the only thing you have to do when using the rotary table is to plug in (when not powered up) the connector for the stepper.
It shouldn’t be getting that hot. Do you have a DMM that you could use to measure the coil resistance of that stepper?
Is it possible that you have a 0.9° motor instead of a 1.8°? That would mean double the calculations there (basically swap the 3200 nbers for 6400.) It could also mean DRV8825 drivers at 32× microstepping… same thing.
A hot motor is a problem happening or waiting to happen. 330mA does not seem excessive…
The X2 motor is plugged into the A axis.
I found in the Fluidnc wiki that you have to power up the board and steppers before you plug in the USB cable for the config.yaml settings to take effect. After doing that the motor did not get hot. So, 1 problem solved!
I’m not sure how to tell if it’s a 0.9 or 1.8 degree motor. The Jackpot board has TMC2209 drivers.
I tried 40.96mm at 50 steps/mm or as 62.2348mm at 32.9076 steps/mm.
Then I tried 100 steps/mm and it was better. I could get the roller to make 1 revolution, but when I tried rotating a jar the full circumference it went about 450 degrees.
Here is the Y motor section of the config.yaml:
motor1:
limit_neg_pin: gpio.34:high
limit_pos_pin: NO_PIN
limit_all_pin: NO_PIN
hard_limits: false
pulloff_mm: 5.000
tmc_2209:
uart_num: 1
addr: 3
cs_pin: i2so.19
r_sense_ohms: 0.110
run_amps: 0.40
hold_amps: 0.250
microsteps: 8
stallguard: 0
stallguard_debug: false
toff_disable: 0
toff_stealthchop: 5
toff_coolstep: 3
run_mode: StealthChop
homing_mode: StealthChop
use_enable: false
step_pin: I2SO.18
direction_pin: I2SO.17
disable_pin: I2SO.16
Thst really sounds like a 0.9° motor. (400 steps/revolution.)
If you fudge the mm/revolution, I can’t see how it can manage the jar. I would fix the steps/mm (set it to double the calculated value above) and try the jar again.
So if this is a 400 steps/revolution motor, the 2048 there should actually be 4096, resulting in 65.8152673424 microsteps/mm
Edit: another little verification:
450 ÷ 360 = 1.25
100 (steps/mm setting) ÷ 65.8 (calculated steps/mm) = 1.51. It seems.somethinf still isn’t quite right there. The 100 steps/mm should rotate the jar more like 540° unless another measurement is off somewhere, either the roller or the jar diameter. (Or the jar is slipping on the rollers and not moving as far as it should.)
I set the Y motor to 65.815 steps_per_mm. Then I set the roller to 39 mm per rotation.
I drew a 5mm by 195mm rectangle and framed it with the jar on the roller. It was very close to 1 rotation.
I have to raise the MPCNC to get the rotary and jar to fit under the laser to get it dialed in.
Thank you @SupraGuy for all your help.
Which rotary axis is that? Rather than make one and have to go through all those tweaks myself, I’d rather leverage all the work you guys have done.
Mike
Lol. Me too. 
@mbamberg @SupraGuy
Haha, it’s an Ortur YRR 2.0. ($79)
Amazon has the new Ortur YRR 3.0 $30 off with a coupon. ($99). It has a much easier set up for tapered glasses or stemware.
I ordered the new one and I’m returning the 2.0.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BN1KS7HT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks for the info.
After looking at the pictures, it seems spendy for what you get, and if the documentation.is as lacking as your questions seem, I’d think they should be able to do better… maybe the A axis config is baked into the Ortur firmware? We of course need to figure it out, but the only guesswork was the actual real effective diameter of the rollers to get the steps/mm. Once that’s in place it’s just another linear axis.
Just my opinion, (and in full disclosure I have a Ortur laser), the documentation is not lacking, when used as designed on a Ortur laser machine. It’s just plug and play.
I could be wrong, but I don’t think Ortur designed this or intended it to be universal. I am glad it’s now working on something that isn’t an Ortur. And yes I do wish everything provided proper documentation to educate all users. But sadly that’s not the world I live in, especially with things coming out of China. Or at least that’s my experience.
I’m by no means trying to defend Ortur, as much as I’m disappointed in today’s manufacturing process, and IMO, the lack of foresight to make something so ‘simple’ universal.
Thankfully they included 2 cables for connecting to other devices. The documentation was how to put it together and plug it into an Ortur laser.
I’m glad I had the help of other forum members to figure out how to get it working for the Jackpot board.
@mbamberg
The 3.0 version is a much better design. It is a lot easier to adjust the rollers and set up for tapered or stemware cups. I’m glad I exchanged the 2.0 for the 3.0.