CNC Virgin - 3d printer owner

I see. I will use the RJ12 breakout from Amazon listed in the FluidNC build documentation and pick off 5V from there, leaving VMOT alone. I won’t modify the controller side .

This lets me switch back and forth between M5 and CYD on any given machine.

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Currently at the board end of the straight through rj12 cable is a rj12 breakout board which i have soldered pins onto. Obviously i havent tried this yet. Is Barts expansion a replacement to my breakoutt board? Where can i buy it?

Hey, it might not even work yet so definitely handy to know theres a better way.

I will do that, although @MakerJim has suggested Bart’s pre made expansion to rj12. Since i’ve zero experience with either im open to advice from the forum.

I thought I read on discord that the breakout board doesn’t work with the CYD.

I have no idea why it wouldn’t. I’ll have mine assembled in the next day or two so will be able to report one way or the other.

For what it is worth, my sets came from the tindie store (matched set, but very affordable)

Edit: Note I’m talking about the CONTROLLER side, not the pendant side.

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I’ll verify it works in the next day or two.

You really need ESD protection on your breakout board.

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I knew you would test it out and let us know. They may have been talking about the pendant side for the M5Dial itself.

PS I wish I had something like this. Amazon was out of the RJ11 Breakout that Bart recommended when I was putting together my third pendant so I ordered from a different supplier. The new one had the pins in the opposite order. Barts is 123456. The new one is 654321. I wasn’t sure how they matched up when I plugged one model into the other so I got my DMM and tried measuring pins to see which one is 5v and which one is vmot. I accidentally moved the probe and shorted the two together and immediately saw the dreaded blue smoke. My ESP32 was fried and I lost my gpio 26 and 27. I swapped out the ESP32 and everything else seems ok on the Jackpot. Lesson learned!

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so i have connected the breakout board to the Jackpot, configured config.yaml and when powered up it says N/C still? any ideas i have uploaded my config file text fyi.

stepping:
engine: I2S_STATIC
idle_ms: 255
pulse_us: 2
dir_delay_us: 1
disable_delay_us: 0
segments: 12

uart1:
txd_pin: gpio.0
rxd_pin: gpio.4
rts_pin: NO_PIN
cts_pin: NO_PIN
baud: 115200
mode: 8N1

uart2:
txd_pin: gpio.14
rxd_pin: gpio.13
rts_pin: NO_PIN
cts_pin: NO_PIN
baud: 1000000
mode: 8N1

uart_channel2:
report_interval_ms: 75
uart_num: 2

i2so:
bck_pin: gpio.22
data_pin: gpio.21
ws_pin: gpio.17


This must be the pin assignment from the wiki which is for one of Barts boards. This is what I have in mine… Disreguard. I had a brain fart :man_facepalming:

I am using pins 1 3 4 and 5 on the rj11 breakout which i though would coincide with gnd, 5v, gpio 14 and gpio 13 ?

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Thats right. :man_facepalming: I completely forgot mine has been changed around for a prototype board from @MakerJim

Sorry about that!!!

All that dust on the pins will come back to bite you with a little humidity. Might wanna use some canned air or something on it.

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Noted, cheers Ryan

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Double check that you wired TX on Jackpot to RX on the pendant and vice versa.

So on the rj11 breakout on the cyd pin 1 is gnd pin 2 is not used pin 3 is 5v pin 4 is tx and pin 5 rx. Do i need to swap anything or do i swao the tx and rx gpio numbers around in the config file?

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If you swap them in your config.yaml and it starts working, then it means the pendant is miswired.

In that case, I’d fix the wiring. By doing that you can move it to other machines if you ever want to.

You could just leave it swapped in the config if that suits you better.

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i ended up swapping the wires over on pins 4 and 5 on the cyd break out and hey presto, so many thanks for that.

i have had a little play with it and notice that i can home all axis, which works as should, and it shows x home as below…

the when i try and jog to x max it stops short. both times only reaches the below position, even after rehoming… can anyone shed any light as to why it might do that?

i haven’t yet tried taking it to y max as i need to clear so stuff of the table first and ive had enough tonight. when i jogged z it seemed to have full range of motion however i only took it down to just a hair off the bed.

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Homing is not the same as zeroing - if you home then go to the jog menu you can set the current location as zero for each axis.

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A little update on my build, after the issue i had on the previous cuts with the bit ploughing into the work piece, it was made apparent i was running the wrong size pulleys, and what seemed like the machine was missing steps on x, ive since stripped the machine down, checked all bolts and movement across the x axis.

I swapped the pullys for 16t pulleys. When i reassembled i then found an issue with z homing where it seemed the motor didnt have enough power to home z0 when the core was at x home. After checking and checking…and more checking i unplugged the z stepper wires from the board and reconnected firmly and the problem was solved.

Fast forward a week or so (when i had time to square and level the macine again) i ran another cut, this time a logo (for another project) out of 9mm plywood. This was a 2.5m cutter at approx 12000 rpm (speed 2 on the makita) 15mm/s and 1.5mm depth of cut. All seemed well, sounded good while cutting, was getting some nice chips rather than dust, and also the extractor was working really well keeping most of the dust at bay even before adding bristles.

The machine was running for about an hour, with me popping in every 10 mins or so to check on the progress, anyway, about an hour in, i came in and the z0 was almost bottomed out z1 looked to be at the correct height and the machine was still trying to run through the programme.

I cancelled th programme, turnerd the router off and homed all axis’. Which worked fine (cutter still in one piece).

So back to the diagnosis. In the coming days im going to open the board box and check thay z0 connection again giving it a wiggle whilst its powered up and a clean with contact cleaner.

Ive ordered some stick on temp gauges off ryan to monitor stepper temp and also a spare stepper motor, just in case plus a few other goodies.

My plan is to focuse on a possible loose connection and if thats the cause possibly swap out the dupont connector. Failing that can anyone recommend the next place to try before i run the programme again whatching like a hawk?

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I can’t really help with your problem, but this could have been a burned-down shop. We do have pictures of a user here whose LR burned down after leaving it unattended for a while. We have a video that shows a fire starting in less than 20 seconds. Never leave your machine unattended! Please.

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