Also the thought occurs that it might be possible to do a version of this that accommodates drawers inside the torsion box cells. Thoughts?
1 Like
From my swiveling armchair, I’d limit it to the four end-cap cells. Access to the side cells would be problematic under the best of circumstances. Granted, if you’re making it parametric, nobody has to add side-access drawers, but I think they are a phenomenally bad idea. I’d at least put off side-access drawers until later… Also, don’t forget that you need to keep some of the face frame intact to maintain the torsion box, so the drawers aren’t going to be overly large. Probably bit/collet/tool storage (maybe even some clever tilting mechanism for longer bits if you need it).
2 Likes
My thinking was to (if attempting it), keep lots of the face frame intact, with added secondary drawer mount faces added to the plan, so the torsion box would be largely unaffected. I agree it’s possibly a not-good idea, but I like to try to leave no stone unturned.
LOL 
1 Like
Another reason for sticking to just the end cells: Even if you weaken the torsion box, you’re only weakening it on the two ends, the inner partitions are still intact and providing full support. I’m guessing you probably still have plenty of strength, even if you open up those portholes into largish rectangles. Maybe double up the endcaps? Or reinforce the openings with an inner frame that acts like a glue block, but runs top and bottom the full width of the cell, and stringers on the sides. Then put in a couple of strips on the bottom for runners. If the drawers aren’t the full height of the openings (even by a smidge), it would be easy enough to put some guides into the back of the drawer to keep in in line, and even prevent pull-out (quiet, back there, we’re adults here!)
These concepts are inline with my ponderings on it.
See end of this post for links to view /download:
Table designed for metal struts:
…with mockups of metal struts added:
Click HERE for accessing the following…
DXFs for TABLE WITH WOOD SIDE RAILS:
-
21/32’’ plywood (Slot_Width 0.65625’’ or 16.66875mm)
-
23/32’’ plywood (Slot_Width 0.719’’ or 18.2562mm)
-
~.75’’ plywood (specifically Slot_Width 19.15mm, or 0.75393701’')
DXFs for TABLE WITH METAL STRUT SIDE RAILS:
1 Like
I keep looking at that Superstrut, but at $82.20 CAD per side, (10’ length) it’s a pretty hard sell for me.
The half width size 13/16" size is a bit less, but still $67.20 CAD per side.
I did my original LR2 table using fir 2×4 rails that I could get which are nice and straight. Spendier than most dimensional lumber, but seemed to be worthwhile.
Finally found a store in driving range that I could get the Superstrut at, and it’s about twice the cost I had figured on. 
It’s a shame they’re hitting you that hard for it up there. Here in our town, at the local Home Depot, I can buy a 10’ metal strut for $35.57 (US).
Sorry for butting in
But is some aluminum rectangle tubing a option ?
Or is the super strut something that has added features like the little trolly that fits inside ?
This type of steel metal strut is sold under various name brands, and is commonly used for constructing garage and shop related storage etc. There are rolling sliding fittings sold for it, and wide assortment of functional add ons.
3 Likes
Ok I looked it up and just wasn’t sure if you where using it for a surface to ride on, our to use it as it’s intended use with the little trolly.
It works well for LowRiders to ride on. I first used for my LR2 to ride on, and then my LR3 as well. The little trolly is not used in this.
However, I am using my near side metal strut to protect and hide my long side belt on the near side. Makes it so much nicer for me.
1 Like
Thanks for the pic Barry
And the explanation about its use etc.
2 Likes
I always figured if I was going to build a lr3, that I’d make the side rails from 2"x2" square steel tubing.
1 Like
I was thinking the same, since I could get the steel from my workplace for pretty close to mill costs. The problem that I have with it is bolting it to the table, and bolting belt fixtures to it.
I suppose that I could put the belt holders on wood or printed plastic attached to the tables, and just have the steel clamped in place. That might work…
Maybe I’ll ask about some 2×2 thin wall steel at work. I think the conduit tube on the other side is going to be a pain though.
2 Likes
With my LR3 based CNC plasma rig, the screw holes on one side, and larger access holes on the other side, could be knocked out.
Some angle steel should also work.
But the company that I work for sells tube. No angle steel, no C channel, no beam. So I can get the tube from work, at a steep discount. 
2 Likes