I am building my 3rd LR4… for a friend. They pick up the amount of the parts I don’t have on hand and for me it is donating parts as a way of subsidizing the hobby for others to get in. Helps me thin out my pile of parts that I don’t want to throw away and my printer is making me smile as it cranks out more and more quality parts. What’s not satisfying about that?
So I learned about the plate function in orcaslicer… that was super cool:
Colour matching can be tricky with different brands. The red I got IS red, but yet it is a red that wants to grow up to be orange, I honestly don’t know how else to explain it lol it’s red but yet florescent orange glow
I’m using the el cheapo reds off of amazon. Ironically, the cheapest one is more red than the next-cheapest I have found, but now I can’t get it anymore.
A cover for the back side of the strut gantry between braces. I have seen pictures of panels made that cover the back of the system, but not an stl it parametric.
Not yet, on my list too. Still planning on clear panels based on cheap picture frame covers.
Been away, nice place in Mexico (with a Home Depot and Walmart), didn’t want to leave. Recently arrived home to cyclone bomb aftermath. Worst storm I’ve experienced in PNW in last 20yrs. Could be much worse, glad we don’t have hurricanes, floods, earthquakes, etc …
Planned LR4 adventures/mods are on hold for a few days. Currently jerryriging sketchy power setups from truck battery to house furnace/outlets.
I also have one. The issue is that the length is not standardised. I have a fusion360 model that has a length parameter, bit of course I’ve only ever printed one 199mm in length, because thst’s what I need. At present though I am not using it. A variant for a drag chain mount to the core near the center and for power entry using a standard power cable also are part of the set, and one of those doesn’t like changing the length right now.
I also did an enclosure for my board, and am working up a Jackpot variant, but it’s not high priority as Ryan’s box works perfectly well.
If one is making a full 4’ wide cut-area gantry with 7 braces, the spacing is about 8.25" between them. I was looking to stand on your shoulders rather than duplicate effort. After thinking on this more, it may be more effective to mount on the yz plate rather than suspend something between the braces.
I’m using skr pro, not jackpot. This inquiry was more for enclosing one gap and holding a motor power cutoff switch not for housing the controller.
Thanks for the discussion.
Sorry to hear of the weather challenges you face @azab2c. Sounds like the cyber truck has some self reliance options I hadn’t considered. I hope power is restored quickly for you.
I put Jamie’s screw topper on it and the endstop won’t trigger in the lowest position even with the roller endstop. bummer. I really like both the look of the screw topper and their function. Thinking I’ll shim the XZ plate endstop to make it work.
that red wart on the top is an iteration to make the estop button in the shop fit on the front so it is easy to get to. not there yet. my cad skills lack and so I’m using tinker cad… print check, modify, repeat…
If you are using the lead screw from Ryan you cant run the screw toppers. To do that you have to get your own lead screw and cut them longer. Ryans are JUST long enough to max out the Z.
well, that is all I have right now, so I’m going to print a cover for the z switch point on the XZ plate and bump it 3 mm so it will work. If I had a 3 mm tap, I’d put an M3 cap head screw in that and it would be enough to trigger.
