Burly Revisions

These are old parts?

The ones on your print plate are the old ones.

Well, damn it.

Hope these look better… I was using Box to store my 3D printing files and it wasn’t syncing for some reason. So I printed the old ones.

 

[attachment file=73018]

5ECCBE91-6FFF-4AF2-AB95-B77B29F77692.jpeg

Yup!

Ryan

Do the new Burly parts help with adjusting the z axis to be perpendicular? I have the 525 version printed and am having issues getting it perpendicular front to back (it’s low in the front by about 2 mm).

If it’s about the same as far as that adjustment goes, I can start a new thread about the issue I’m having.

It’s the same. Loosening the 2.5" bolt moves the rail towards it, tighter away. You say front to back I assume 45 degrees from the rails, that means you need to work the top two and bottom two in tandem. The looser it is to start the more effect it has, as you start to get tighter the less it moves, so start loose, or start by loosening. I also assume that means with my printed tool checker, so low in the front would mean tighten the bottom two 2.5" or loosen the top two. I think this is super common as the bottom is harder to get to so they get neglected.

If that does not help please start a new topic.

Thanks Ryan. Yes it’s front to back along the y axis rail.

I’m using a makita router so I created a new tool similar to yours that fits my router. I also created a sort of plastic wrench that I can wedge between the plastic and the nuts to adjust those 4 bolts.

Ill try your adjustments tonight and see if I can get it to work.

I’m not much of a ‘meme’ type person but I think of my machine as a Burly Boi now and that makes me OK with it :slight_smile:

Hey Ryan.

Hope you are fit n fine.

Dear do you have a policy of donating the machine or just MPCNC’s printed part only.?

Heads up, in the parts listing under hardware the amazon link to the leadscrew is broken.

Also it may be helpful to new users to clarify the coupler nut, eg. 5/16 coupler if using all thread OR T8 coupler if using T8 leadscrew. As it is it’s a little confusing… Or it could be right, I’m easily confused.

Awesome, thanks. I fixed it, the T8 links do not last long. Also fixed the coupling nut issue. The Burly revision can no longer use one, missed that edit previously.

Well, I have great timing! I’ve been away from the forums for about 6 months due to life, the universe, work and family. The old MPCNC has been going strong with countless hours of milling, engraving and laser burning/cutting. Just lately I had been thinking it was time for the 100K mile service and was going to tear her down and rebuild, replacing worn/suspect parts as I went. On a whim I stopped by the website a few says ago to see what was going on lately and behold! Perfection has been improved upon? What is this? So, a couple days and a chunk of a roll of filament later I have all of the new parts and mount printed up and ready for this weekends rebuild.

Just wanted to pop in and say (though I’ve said it before) - Thank you, Ryan! I love your machine. It took the skills I learned through years of 3D printing and building printers and improved upon them while opening up new avenues for creativity and just generally making a lot of noise and chips. Well done, sir.

3 Likes

Wow, Thanks!

In the list of printed parts on the site, is there any significance to some part names being in gray and others in black?

 

My printing color scheme.

Ryan, thanks for the Burly update, I have parts printing now as I’m building the enclosure for my basement.

One quick question, is there a trick to this nut? I know you mentioned that the Burly parts are a little more tricky to put together but the nylock nut is spinning on me and for the life of me I can’t tighten the bolt in it all the way.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/42DAYsTc84UzEFRe6

Thanks!

I used needle nose pliers for those.

2 Likes

Or a small flat shim, screwdriver, whatever you can get in there. It is sized for the larger 8mm nut for the international builders. We have to deal with that nut they have to deal with the smaller #6 nuts. (all because I am too lazy to make parts for both in all the build sizes)

Needlenose did the trick. Had to have the fiance turn the bolt but it worked!

No worries, like you said in the instructions it only needs to be tightened once. Thanks!