You really can’t tell from my previous post, I’m truly excited about this revision. It addresses the xyz plate head on, and I believe it will give a more stable performance.
For me, mass equals strength most of the time.
For me, numbers mean I can guesstimate what I can do, before I break stuff. It would be great to test the actual improvement. Like with a fish scale and a mic.
Ahhhhh I had a big post and got logged out…dangit.
In Summary. I was ready to test, bought a cheap noga style arm and scale. I then realized a proper test would be two fresh assembly’s 525 and Burly, My 525 build had been beaten up pretty good so no telling how compromised it could have been. Once I finished the parts and assembled the test bench the improvement is more greater than I anticipated so a test just seemed like a task that I could skip. No need to prove what is obvious. I would love for you to do a few tests though, I am pretty sure it will be obvious in every direction but if it is not that would be good to know.
Once I finish up the 660 revision I will try some real world comparison cuts, exact same gcode as I had before. Hopefully there is a obvious and noticeable gain.
To add to this previous post. I had written before, that I tested the gantry ,
I was getting about 0.05″ (1.27mm) deflection at the endmill with the Z extended 2″ with ~300oz (18lbs) of force. Just a super rough test..I will make a decent dial mount and scale jig, then decide on a reasonable amount of force, 18 is excessive. I am much more concerned with the initial smaller deflections.
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I started the tear down of my red machine, set the dial indicator right on the table so I don’t forget. I need to see how it handles that number (and 18 
).
Oh and I have a number for “snugging” the 5/16" non-tension bolts. 5.5NM. Best I can get with my old torque wrench and my highly calibrated hands…
What is this? Engineering?
That or it could be voodoo, hard to tell the difference sometimes.
Sounds like a t-shirt slogan
Voodoo is how wifi works. Actually any radio antenna in general. It’s all just PFM.
Come on who uses NM this is Merica what that in IN LBs lol.
48.67 according to the link in the post.
I have no idea where I got the little inch pound wrench I have but the scale was easier to read on the NM side. I now see a need for a digital torque wrench, just have a select-able scale for instant conversions. Free-million dollar idea, one wrench every scale.
I used to have to torque a couple nuts that were in the hundreds of foot pounds. I could do a chin up on the torque wrench and it wouldn’t break. I’d pull myself up, then one of the other guys on my load crew would pull me down by the belt to make it click. QA loved seeing that… ?
One of the first times I came across large torque was the axle nuts on a VW bug. The rear ones where way up there. I had a breaker bar with a 4’ pipe on it. If you didn’t get it tight you would spin off the splines of the rear drums when you tried to put your foot on the gas. I replaced many many of them. Actually first time I ever saw a dial indicator was the thrust bearing shims on the flywheel. I rebuilt the engine but had to take it in to get that torqued and shimmed. Dam those bugs taught me a lot (I had 4-5 of them).
On the Bill of Material printed parts section for mpcnc, it lists Gantry_Spacer_*_Burly and some other parts with Burly suffix added. On the thingiverse files for mpcnc c burly it lists most of the burly files with Burly suffix but the gantry spacer is named Gantry_Spacer_C without burly added.
Fixed, thanks.
I used to have to torque a couple nuts that were in the hundreds of foot pounds. I could do a chin up on the torque wrench and it wouldn’t break. I’d pull myself up, then one of the other guys on my load crew would pull me down by the belt to make it click. QA loved seeing that
Revised the 660 mount a bit, nothing fancy just more…Burly. I am already getting tired of that, I liked “525” better.
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Ryan, thank you for all the work you put into these things. I am just getting started with researching and like the look of the new Burly parts. I have seen people printing all different sizes of machines. In your opinion, what is the perfect size as far as balance between usability and detail in prints. Id like to go as big as possible without loosing quality…ya I guess that is what Im saying 
Help
Ryan, Did you remove part of the 660 and did it make it easier to change the bit? What do I need to order if so?
Getting close to having the new Dewalt 660 mount printed:
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Totally depends on what you make. But the size calculator defaults are a good place to start.
??? Those are the old parts. As for the 660, Most of us take off the black ratchet part on the bottom, but leave the top lock.
