Total newbie here and this one may have been an expensive mistake.
Downloaded the XZ plate DXF which is linked multiple places in documentation. It is also the same file in the zip file download of all the files. So I know didn’t get it wrong. I uploaded each location to autodesk to view it and verified the files are the same so I didn’t get the wrong file.
Next, I uploaded the XZ plate dxf file and a few others to a milling company. No questions were asked.
The problem is, they counter sunk 8 holes on ONE side making 2 exact copies of the same piece. The problem with this is, if they were to be counter sunk, one of these would have had to be flipped so they worked left/right side. Otherwise, no holes would have had to be counter sunk.
Whose fault is this? Mine for being a n00b, CNC place for not asking questions, or is this an error with the DXF file? The doc page lists left/right xz plate files but they both link to the same dxf. It would make sense to have 2 dxf files if you were going to counter sink. I know from reading if greater than 1/4 you must recess the holes (not counter sink). So I get that. But why leave BOTH holes like that in one dxf file?
Thoes holes in the dxf are for countersunk straight holes if you have a plate thicker than 7mm, it says so in the manual. But: I had the same problem but the place cought it and asked me, another user had the problem two days ago where they cut the bigger holes. @vicious1 You should really think about removing those holes from the dxf, the usual thickness of aluminium is 6mm it seems. Adding countersunk wholes is easier than removing them.
The counter sunk holes may not be an issue if the Pan headed bolts are large enough? If the Pan head bolts are sinking in then I’d fill the unwanted countersunk holes with epoxy (redrilling from reverse side).
Only need to do this for one plate, but may as well do both?
My solution here is I ordered M3x8mm flat head counter sink screws. So they will slide into the counter sink which is only 1.5mm deep leaving another ~4.8mm of plate left for the screw.
Just really frustrated this is how my build gets off the ground.
part of me is thinking about taking my counter sink bit and counter sinkin the other side. i am so picky that having separate screws on each side will bug me. but that is a me problem.
same time my 3d printer decided to break so it’s been a double punch of a day for me.
One of those things I just can’t win at. If I did not include the counter bore specs, then I would have the same problem and people would be asking me what size should the counter bore be… I added a picture with the holes highlighted. What would you suggest I do differently?
Technically these are Non-commercial licensed and in sticking with the spirit of me giving it all away for free you should not have submitted them to another company (which is producing my parts for a profit) you should have just bought them from me. Then there would have been no issue.
I suppose that it is easier to drill/countersink/whatever if people get thicker plates, or else you need it specified in boldface caps or int he DXF title that it’s for 6mm material only. Or else people are going to need different length M3 screws for thicker plates…
My suggestion is to offer two versions of the DXF file: one with the outer holes for countersinking, and one without, with a large alert notice on the differences between them so folks have to make an educated choice at the time of download. Also mention that if they are doing thick and needing to countersink to be careful to stress, that mirroring is needed.
@vicious1 hey there. i am not attacking you. i really appreciate what you do here and i have actually spent a lot of money in your store already. i had the YZ plates made in aluminum and sent these to the machinist at the same time, that is why I didn’t buy from your store for this specific item. Also, it looks like yours are steel in the store photos and I wanted to stay with aluminum.
My suggestion:
Option 1: On the document page where you have in the table the “XZ Plate Left” and “XZ Plate Right” links … make them go to an actual left and right version of the plate. That way if someone counter sinks, cool, no harm, just use counter sink screws.
Option 2: Replace your link with just the standard plate w/o the counter sinks. Add another link below that with “here is the dxf with counter sink holes, be sure to specify the dept of the counter sink to the machinist as well as mirror it so you have a left and a right version”
Thank you for doing this and building this community. I hope not to be a bother. I am not blaming you. Your documentation maybe But not you. Stuff happens.
I think that just ends up with confusion either way. The description is one sentence stating the needed thickness, and if outside that, what to do. I really feel that a simple one sentence solution is ideal here. Adding more files and details just adds more things to go wrong. I think in the end it would be the same effect, the instructions would need to be read and followed carefully.
The part was specifically made to be universal, there is no left or right, so making new parts means I also need to change the instructions to reflect that. When the parts are bought from me, they are identical, so saying “left, right” in the instructions means I will get questions since there would be no difference.
If you were making them yourself the mistake would not happen which is the intended audience. Machine shops charge extra for couterboring and countersinking , I am surprised it was done without asking or a charge. Counterboring leaves room for some misalignment and the same screws as the kit, countersinking would require more expensive parts and extra screws, counterboring is specified if the thickness exceeds the specs.
We have had two different machine shops make different choices here, so I might add something but I am not clear what to add or if I even should.
I agree with you Ryan. It is tricky. No one wants to make this mistake.
My only critique or suggestion is to put the sentence in a warning box. And maybe add something like, “The dxf includes the counter bore. So make sure you only cut the smaller hole all the way through”. Or something like that.
It is one thing if a machine shop does it. The NC license prohibits that. But I could see myself needing that help if I was cutting it myself. Honestly, I bet these dxfs are used more often in wood than in Al. Most people who want metal will just buy from you.
It may just be one of those things that catches 1% of people and any other solution would confuse 2%.
Or else people are going to need different length M3 screws for thicker plates…