Hi Gentlemen
It maybe the first with a Flat Screwdriver as a working tool, but it sure does insert screws accurately ???
Here is a closeup of the Splash Screen.
[attachment file=66792]
Regards
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Evening Gentlemen
Apologies for my silence over the past week, but work got in the way of my leisure time.
Today I did some finishing touches and attempted to cut a first part. Well it didn’t go exactly as I had hoped, it cut everything as I had programmed but didn’t cut the outline at all LOL
[attachment file=67327]
However for the cuts it made I’m very pleased.
I just need need to do some thinking to aid keeping the mess to a minimum. The Vac attachment didn’t work too well, this could be because I used a basic Vaccum and think I need to give this area some thought.
on a whole though, I’m very pleased
regards
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Advice as to feed rates and Speeds
Evening gentlemen,
Well ive spent much of the past few days reading about how to CNC successfully. I must say there is far more to this than I’d actually anticipated.
Here is a quick question.
I have some GCODE for a part and to prevent the Birch Ply from burning I’ve read that speed / federate is important. To this end is a MPCNC able to deal with this
Cutter RPM 10,000
Cutter depth 1mm
Diameter 3.175mm (1/8)
Cutter with 2 flutes
I’m leaning toward a feedrate of 15mm/sec or is this alittle in the slow side…
Does anyone have any starting settings as a guide
regards gents
Test cuts, test cuts, test cuts. Cad up a little square (25-50mm) and try it out. Those numbers sound okay. Might start off a tad slower or deeper. Hard to say I have been using 20k-30k but a single flute, so it should be fairly close.
Evening Gentlemen
That was a very busy fortnight with work… Unfortunately I have a career where I cannot drop out for two weeks and need to work as and when I am able. Anyway, back to the MPCNC.
I thought I had downloaded a “Makita” mount to stop the chips being flung everywhere. However after 28hours of printing it turned out to be one for a Version 1 of the MPCNC. So not to be deterred I drew myself another using a mishmash of a few.
Very happy with the result
[attachment file=69578]
you will notice some clear acrylic with pale blue protective film attached. The acrylic was cut using the MPCNC after being drawn on DesignSpark Mechanical… Was an easy fit as the CNC cut all the holes very precisely.
i have today ordered some super flexible 38mm hose. When this as arrived and as been installed I think it’s will definitely be time for more serious routering
regards
3 Likes
Evening Gentlemen
i apologies for disappearing without a trace.
My mother passed away unexpectedly at the end of September 2018 and so I have been up past my neck with legal, financial and funeral matters.
Also dealing with my nephew who found her on the Kitchen floor. Poor guy.
I maybe quiet for alittle while longer as the funeral isn’t until next Wednesday and then I feel ill need some quiet reflective time. It’s been hectic
thank you for your understanding.
regards
So sorry for your loss. I hope that the hectic part is over and you get some quality family time to help each other through this.
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Great project - with loads of potential uses and great to see all of the addons on Thingiverse.
Just starting on a initial 300mm x 300mm build myself in Essex UK.
Starting to collect and print parts. Am printing on a PRUSA MK3 with 0.6mm Nozzle, 0.4mm layer height,2 shells and 50% Gyroid infill - not sure if I am going to regret using such a large layer height but hopefully using 0.6mm widths will make the parts strong.
Initially printed a few parts from the 25mm version, and bought a single Screwfix 25mm conduit which seems to cut quite well with the toolstation pipe cutter recommended. Unfortunately the measured diameter of the tubing is closer to 24.5mm - so only fits quite loosely. Also having trouble with M4 Nylocs spinning in the housings.
Will try a different Screwfix today to see if theirs are also 24.5mm.
In the meantime I have reworked a few of the parts using Tinkercad - modifying the 23.5 version to be 24.5 by cutting out 1mm extra, plus also modifying the #6 nut traps to more closely fit M4 nylocs by adding an extra 1mm. Initial prints seem to work ok - but not sure how easy it is going to be to modify the more complicated parts - am going to try to C Roller next.
Have compared the 23.5 and 25 versions to see the differences - and will try creating a hybrid of the two to get the correct placement of the bearing holes.
If the roller works out ok will probably continue modifying one of each part of 24.5/M6 as I am printing them, otherwise will have to find a more expensive source for proper 25 or 25.4mm tubing.
Already have 5 NEMA 17’s that I ordered last year when I was planning to build a 3d printer, plus a 2560 Arduino + Stepper driver board - will try these first - but may get a RAMBO board if that ends up being easier.
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Hi Dave
Welcome. Personally feel 300x300 may be alittle small, but clearly just depends on your intended uses and not that difficult to make larger at a later stage. As for your 0.4 layer height, that all depends on your layer bonding. I did mine at 0.2mm layers as my 3D printer makes little difference in quality between that and 0.1 and the 50% saving in time helped…
Please be be careful with some of the items availiable on Thingiverse as they can be alittle off when it comes to precision. I always measure the items and again this delends in your printers calibration.
I substituted M4 nuts n bolts for the m3.5 and had to do noting for them to fit snuggly.
where abouts in Essex are you? I’m in Cambridge. If you require any assistance, let me know…
I recently did some calibration measurements on my MPCNC and it was spot on with Ryan’s Firmware installed… And I mean superb. 100mm X axis was 100mm and similarly for Y & Z…
Keep on trucking with your CNC
regards
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Thanks - yes appreciate 300x300mm may be a bit small - but thought it would be easier to handle indoors and refine at that size - before eventually remaking or resizing to a bigger size if needed.
Not sure how well the 0.4mm layer height will work - but that in combination with the 0.6mm nozzle does seem to reduce print times to about 50% of the stated time on the parts list. Will reprint any parts that break at lower heights.
Thanks for the offer of assistance - I am near Chelmsford - so only about 40 mins away if I need to call for help in a few weeks!
Hi Dave
I used to work at Broomfield Hospital so am familiar with the distance from Cambridge.
Totally agree with what you say. Mine is 900 X 600 and once adding the extra needed for the gantry and router is closer too 1200x 900. In my case a nice size and is big enough for my RC Aircraft and Jet related hobbies. I’ve been cutting some wing and tail ribs as well as some wing Tips. I’m Still in the learning stage. I thought 3D printers took some learning, but this CNC project takes far more. The Miriad of Bits is mind blowing. Speed Of movement, RPM of router and materials all plays a part.
Keep intouch…
Just got some more pipes from Screwfix - and they seem to vary between 24.5 and 25 and are not regularly round.
Think I will printout the 25mm parts (with M4 modifications) and see how I go. If when constructed it doesn’t work well then will replace Screwfix pipes with more expensive Stainless Steel ones.
Hi Dave
I understand it is the galvanising layer on the Screwfix pipes which cause the errors you have found. Also it is seem welded which is also a way of introducing errors. You will see that I went for SS pipes and asked before bung what the variations were. Luckily they arrived pre cut and very accurate. Although still seem welded I then placed the welds to the bottom so the bearings would not run along any seems…
I also checked for straightness…
regards
Thanks for the info on Screwfix pipes irregularities - have just ordered 1" SS from Metal Mania - All pre-cut to length apart from the legs (as too short to be cost effective - as anything below 400mm comes to the same price). All came to just under £60 - which isn’t too bad - shame I also spent £33 on Screwfix pipe - oh well I am sure I can find something interesting to make out it of!
Good news with regards to SS turbine, when you say 1" is that imperial or 25.4mm metric.
either way make sure you have the correct printable parts and your printer is calibrated. It all helps with the ease and accuracy of the finished MPCNC
regards
25.4mm Metric - Metal Mania didn’t seem to do 25mm SS.
Will hopefully have all of the prints done before it arrives.
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Superb answer Sir…
You may like to consider printing in smaller layers. The finish this is gives is well worth the extra time.
i can assure you that Metal Mania do cut extremely accurately and Well worth the expense
regards
Have switched to .3mm layers, 35% Gyroid infill and 3 perimeters - printing still fairly quick.
While waiting for the printing to complete thought I would have a go at the electronics.
Already have a Mega 2560 and Ramps Board and some A4988 drivers, plus a new 12v 5a supply
Put the boards together, checked voltage and adjusted driver voltage to match my 1.7A motors, all went ok - once I realised that I had only put half of the pins of the driver boards in correctly.
Downloaded a small example serial port sketch to make sure the Arduino worked ok - all ok.
Then downloaded MPCNC813_GLCD_T8 and then uploaded to Arduino - got some Marlin messages ok.
Was about to turn off and attach motors when smoke started coming out of the board - I think it mostly emanated from the A4988 drivers.
Have ordered some drv8825 from Amazon in case it is some combination of the A4988 and Marlin.
Also tried ordering the Rambo and LCD from the v1 shop - but unfortunately the postage come to about £67!
Full Rambo seem pretty expensive from elsewhere too - so will order a mini rambo from ebay as next step if the drv8825’s also don’t work.
Hi Dave
Sorry to hear about the magic smoke.
For electronics I went with an MKS 1.4 Board as you don’t need any extra boards, it as power included, got it off eBay from China for £19 I think including the stepper motors but went for the upgraded DRV8825 in the end.
Similar to this
regards
Thanks for the info - have ordered from Amazon some 8825s (£9.99), plus a MKS1.4 Board (£18.99) and a 2400 LCD (£9.99) as suggested.
The good news is that I have subsequently found out that A4988’s and DRV8825’s have the potentiometer on the opposite sides and I had used a diagram showing 8825s - so had inserted them the wrong way around. The 2 remaining A4988’s that I hadn’t yet plugged in seem to work ok now without any smoke using a test sketch- so hopefully I haven’t broken anything else.
Next step is to try and see if I can get any motor movement out of Marlin with just two motors and no LCD or SD for now.
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