I print my prototypes to a printer “scalar xl” from 3dmodularsystems but the board is too small for an entire instrument. The vicious circle cnc project and the community side was fun !!
I have some questions :
SETTINGS:
assembly seems very simple. Before the first impression, I guess you have to configure the X, Y, Z. Can anyone explain to me step by step the procedure? (on the scalar xl there are two endstop must be positioned and an induction sensor for Z that must be addressed in a somewhat complicated procedure).
After that the machine knows the 0 point X, Y and Z. Then the machine can be printed.Before each print it is positioned at the point 0 and then virtualizes the board by pointing all the corners and the center.
How it works for the vicious?
HEATED BED,
I need a heating plate of 400x450cm. Ted thank you for the answers but I did not found the topic in the forum. Can anyone send me a link?
CNC
for CNC part. What software do you use? Same for the axes settings
I looked around on the net, but didn’t find a heat bed of 400x450cm. So you probably have to get some heating wire somewhere, stick or hold between glass and metal plate for example, add a thermistor… et voilà.
I didn’t start to mill something with the CNC, but Estclam seems fine, I would try this one first I guess. For axes settings, you talk about that maybe: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
Tell me if there is some demo of the tambourine around Paris!
If I understand right your asking about how to use it without endstops?
Easy, move it by hand to exactly where you want it to start. Then hit go! Endstops only come in handy for doing multiple items, single use machines, or tool bit changes.
FredAlded thank you,
1 / On paris there is a very good musician who uses my instrument, it is called Nicolas Leroy. And the united states there Glen Velez (which took 3 gramy awards for musical projects, but not with my instrument)
yes I bought everything. I even bought 2 complete ramps (I thought it was not included in the kit to € 240 …) I can try the other ramps ?
You should also know , if I stop printing and restart 5min later the printer do anything ==> The nozzle will crash on the bed and the extruder to raise the approximately 5cm wire.
watching the first 2 impressions , the timing delay was present but very small. Does it seems to increase with each new print ???
I printed the knob yesterday and it worked in (beware it is lower than the area or timing delay happens) . Tonight I 'll try with another STL with higher dimensions.
I’m using lcd full graphic.
I started to do a print test another STL yesterday. I have not yet succeeded because I have a problem to be resolved before extruder.
I have just print the rigid coupling without problem.
I think the STL of endstop was badly downloaded.
The problème to restar a new print after stoped begin always by crash of nozzle and retract of filament
Question 1: the rigid coupling is not very round (it can be a form of an egg ) . How to do? Must be set in advance of the engines ?
Question 2: at the start of printing, I have to adjust the distance from the nozzle to the bed (using the Z adjust knob).The engine is not always agree. Sometimes I can tune height during printing, sometimes the Z motor resists.
I also saw that the impression was not good.
I use the other printer settings that go very well. Hawk 205 ° c on the first I increase to 210 ° c on the vicious. The first is equipped with a bed at 70 ° c. The filament is a PLA Esun. The printhead V5 E3D.
Given the quality of the print, I guess it would have to increase the temperature. Besides the first layer does not stick well (I use the polyamide adhesive and lacquer in Hair). This part is for me a recipe to find.
I can’t give much input that one picture is pretty small. But 205 for PLA should be plenty, I would do an extrusion length check. measure 100mm of filament and extrude 100 to make sure it is correct.
Calibration extruder : obviously this is much better …
Tests of the second ramps = exactly the same thing . After stop printing, the printer goes crazy if I print again. You must unplug and connect to print a new object (in adjustment phase is very annoying ) .
Print a cube (40mmx40mm). See the attached photo . I noted the dimensions and axes.
Nozzle touches the object during printing. Should we set the step / mm too? Or it means that there is movement in my assembly ? (at the same time I am writing this email I printed an STL . It was very ugly. I increased the nozzle temperature to 215 ° and the result is much better. The nozzle does not touch more. Maybe the temperature was not sufficient) .
There is an association " Techlab " near me . I am a subscriber . The guys know how to use the Arduino software and configure Marlin . Which version of Marlin is installed in the ramps ? I hope they will have a little time for me.
What are the Marlin changes on models sold ? What is special for calibrations ?
some people have issues printing PLA with the all metal E3D hotend. you need to make sure the cooling fan is working very well and print faster than normal. 215C is very hot for PLA typical is 185-200C
Crazy after printing? must be your zero offsets somehow. If your start and end gcode is what I recommend I am not sure where it could go wrong I use mine several days in a row with multiple prints without turning them off.
The dimensions should be fine. That 41 might be from just bad extrusion. The x and y steps don’t change. Maybe your belts are too tight, or too loose.
Nozzle touching print, Can’t tell anything from an over head picture, I would need a side shot.
Crazy after printing? must be your zero offsets somehow. If your start and end gcode is what I recommend I am not sure where it could go wrong I use mine several days in a row with multiple prints without turning them off.
No, i begin a print / there is some thing to do then i stop the print by LCD / i want to print again : i put the Z at the god place / i select print from sd card / when begin nozzle crash on the bed and extruder retract probably 5cm.
Okay that is easy. After you print, if you don’t reset the arduino, do not touch the Z. It will automatically go back to zero before it starts. That is how I do it.
