Thanks to your guy’s help with the LCD, I now can move my LR2 on the X and Y axis. I tried the Z and got clicking and no movement. From other videos I watched, I concluded that the clicking was a motor was locking up. After removing the coupler and further inspection I found that the shaft of the Z motor closest to me is not aligned correctly adding enough friction to make the motor click. I’ve added some photos/drawings to show how much out of alignment. Looking (almost) straight on is photo (A) you can see that the shaft is too far forward to the point that the shaft and the screw edges don’t even touch. See (B) as what it may look like from a top down view. From side to side the shaft and screw seem to be aligned almost perfectly, but forward and back the shaft and screw seem to be almost 1/4" offset from each other. The other Z motor seemed to turn mostly fine after disconnecting the problematic Z motor so it seems the out of alignment issue is mainly happening on only the one side.
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After messing with it a while, I have several theories of why they are out of alignment and solutions to my problem. But I don’t feel confident that I really understand the underlining problem or which solutions to try. The flat parts were out of stock when I ordered the kit, so I printed out the outline and used a jigsaw to make a rough cut. Maybe my cut was too rough? Placing a level on the table and on several parts of the Y pipes shows both to be level. My best guesses to what the alignment issues are that perhaps even though the Y pipes are level on top they may be making a rhombus which is illustrated in (2a). I’ve tried adding more or less pipe across the Y (2a & 2b) and that does not seem to be making much of a difference.
There is a chance that the X motor’s casing is resting against the table edge. If this is the problem maybe the solution is to route out the flat part where the Z motor casing is attached to be shaved in about a 1/4". This would allow the screw to be pulled out 1/4" and may align the screw to where the shaft is. This is illustrated in (1a) and (1b).
Thanks for reading this long post. If you have ideas, I am all ears. Can’t wait to get the LR2 working.
Let me know if this is what you want or you want another angle. This picture seem to show the screw being tilted. I am not sure why or how to fix that though. I have something propping up the z pipes so that it is level.
Maybe one of the frames in this video could be helpful. If anyone is wondering, the little screwdriver is holding everything in place while the coupler is removed for inspection.
Fantastic. I’ll reassemble it then. Looks like I have a few things opposite from the example picture like the aluminum angle is on the opposite side, the sled is facing the opposite direction and the LCD is on the opposite side. Will these need to be swapped too, or are these other variations preference only?
I’ve swapped the trusses, and I still have the same problem. After taking off the other coupler, I have seen that the same issue is happening with the other Z shaft and screw too.
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It actually looks a little further now. The screw does not look parallel. If it were parallel, it looks like the screw and shaft would meet. Am I correct to think that the screw should be parallel with the Z tubes?
To cause the slant in towards the table, it seems something must be protruding the top part of the X motor casing or the bottom part of the X motor casing may be depressed. My best guess to why the screw is not straight up and down may be the two nuts are resting against the side of the wooden flat part as shown in (B). Are these nuts suppose to nest inside the cutout instead of resting against it? If this is the case, my rough cut of the flat parts is most likely to blame.
Your thoughts on this or any other ideas are much appreciated.
I’ve swapped the trusses, and I still have the same problem. After taking off the other coupler, I have seen that the same issue is happening with the other Z shaft and screw too.
[attachment file=74473]
It actually looks a little further now. The screw does not look parallel. If it were parallel, it looks like the screw and shaft would meet. Am I correct to think that the screw should be parallel with the Z tubes?
To cause the slant in towards the table, it seems something must be protruding the top part of the X motor casing or the bottom part of the X motor casing may be depressed. My best guess to why the screw is not straight up and down may be the two nuts are resting against the side of the wooden flat part as shown in (B). Are these nuts suppose to nest inside the cutout instead of resting against it? If this is the case, my rough cut of the flat parts is most likely to blame.
Your thoughts on this or any other ideas are much appreciated.
I tried loosening those screws barry, and it now gets a lot closer but not quite there. I’m going to need another 1/8".
I’ll try Ryan’s suggestion next, it will take quite a bit of dismantling to flip those screws though so I will wait a couple hours to see if there are any other ideas.
FWIW, on my low rider 1, I used some shims under the part that holds the T nut to striaghten it out. This version has 4 screws though, so it might not make sense.
It seems like I need my trusses opposite from the way that is recommended, which is what I had originally mistakenly. I measured the the shaft across the width of the of the Z motor casing and the side of the truss is 3/16" closer to the edge than the other side. I swapped one of the trusses back to the way I had it originally (towards the outside) and now it lines up without any friction. So for some reason my build needs the trusses on the outside.
With my T nut loose and my trusses backwards, it seems that I should be aligned enough to make my LR2 work. Thanks for all of your suggestions. I’ll be sure to update the thread once I have the Z motor functioning or if I run into more related issues.
