That misalignment could be caused by:
Re. printed parts not dimensionally accurate — the OP can probably measure them with calipers, and then look at the dimensions of the STL / 3mf files in a 3D modeling program, to see if they are accurate.
Here’s a crucial measurement for the OP to take with calipers: how far is the distance between the two plates (YZ plate and XZ plate)?
I have one printer that has a serious issue: it “compresses” the first few layers. All parts will not print at the dimensionally accurate height. However, the overall percentage by which a given part is “off” will be based on how tall the part was supposed to print to. A short part will be out a high percentage. A tall part will be out a lower percentage. If the printed motor mount and the printed part that has the lead screw through it, are not the same height, and not printed in the same orientation, a “compression” issue like my one printer has, would mean misalignment, for sure.
(I have a whole bunch of 3D printers, and only one has that issue. I have plans to rebuild it, but have not yet.)
There are other ways that printers can be out of calibration and print parts that are not dimensionally accurate.
Edited to add: Another way of explaining that the plate thickness does not alter the amount of space between the plates, is to consider a metaphor: a sandwich. Imagine I made a sandwich with a thick slice of bologna and a thick slice of cheese, between two regular slices of toast. Now imagine I made another sandwich, with a thick slice of bologna and a thick slice of cheese, between two thick slices of “Texas toast.” The sandwiches both have the same distance between the bread. The thickness of bread does not matter. Only the thickness of the meat and cheese matters regarding that distance. The meat and cheese represent the linear guides and the slide bearing trucks. Everything that matters here, is, by design, keyed off of that distance, i.e. keyed off of the thickness of the linear gudes + slide bearing trucks.
Great, now I’m hungry…
I see what you mean now, and you’re absolutely correct.
They’re both on the inside.
I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the bearings. I’ll measure the printed parts and as I think now that’s probably whats wrong. I had a really hard time getting the belt in there too. That printed part being off sounds pretty feasible to me now.
The saga continues
According to prusia the leadscrew stubs should be 48.8
I think this is as dead on as can be
Okay I read in another thread a tip by Jeff I think to just use one bolt on the messing nut so I changed that.
The noise is now way less I will get some lube and try again. It’s not falling down when powering off on either side. The makita isn’t on it yet though.
Is the lead screw parallel to the YZ plate? One of the pictures makes it look like it sticks out further at the top than the bottom but I’m not sure if that’s just the perspective. If it is parallel, please disregard this post.
My Z axis didn’t fall until I added the router. Although, I don’t think I lubed the Z screws until after either. I used the PTFE lube that came in the LowRider kit.
I’m not sure this would be a problem with the printed parts. I’m wondering if the Z motor mount is all the way into the YZ plate. I know this was a very tight fit and I struggled a bit to get it seated properly. If it’s too high or too low in the slot, it won’t go in all the way and might explain the lead screw angle.
I have the 3d printed parts snapped in to keep it from falling when I turn it off, but it should be parallel.
Notice how the bottom of the part sits on the bottom of the slot in the YZ plate.
And how the top lines up.
The Z motor bracket needs to be tight against the YZ plate. I had a bit of trouble getting it seated properly so I’d verify there isn’t any gap at the top or bottom.
This is good. If your motor mount is as spot on, that helps in at least one axis. Believe it or not, a printer can “nail” the dimensional spec on Z height, yet be off on another axis. This can make a “tall” part print so it’s “leaning” like the Tower of Pisa, in either the X or Y direction, even if it’s the right height. If your parts “look” straight from all angles this is probably not the issue.
Did you get a chance to measure this?
Yes and that’s the same all over, I got some ptfe lube and I think that and using only one screw on the leadscrew nut fixed it.
The only noise I hear now is the motor turning.
Thank you all for taking the time to help me figure it out!
Yes I measured it and outside of the leadscrew to the side of the plate is consistent with the carriage high or low. So it doesn’t seem to be misaligned.
The noise is now gone too.
Cool! Glad you got it sorted out!
