So…I KNEW IT WOULD HAPPEN…
who else has broken the lever off their y-limit switch from running past the screw?
Any suggestions for an easy swap…I soldered mine (of course) I think perhaps I should use crimps and keep spares on hand…Damn IT!
Can you post a picture of what you did?
I did it. Popped the lever back on.
Edit: it freaked me out and I was frustrated about again having to resolder after waiting for shipment… It clicked back on and still works. Not a deal breaker.
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If the Y endstop screws are all the way in there is no possible way to drive past them. What was going on with your Y endstop screws?
I bent one lever. Just living with it for now.
The chances of doing this are much greater if the machine goes off square when powered down. I try to leave it parked (doesn’t always happen) so that this is less possible.
These switch levers are a weak point, but I’d rather have the weak points be things that are cheap to replace, in the end…
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Wait…where did it say to drive those screws all the way in?!? I thought those were for end stop adjustments…
I was at my laptop running the jackpot software and i drove past the end stop (one too many times getting a hang of the controls) and when I backed it off the one lever got hung up and broke off. Now I’m wishing I wasn’t so OCD and had used quick connects instead of soldering…YLAYL!
My boxes for my y rail and belts aren’t fixed to anything yet. I’ll block them in place on the shop/stage floor when I go to bootstrap the struts that will lock into the bottom of the boxes.
and once they are locked in there should be no more chances of running past the stop screws…
Anyhow, I’ll post a pic of the crown it plotted.
So I just looked back at the instructions… It does say to fully seat them… I went by the pic…my mistake. I’m sure I’m not alone…
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Not sure it does explicitly, but it kind of makes sense to have ONE of them at least all the way in, and the other adjusted for square. That gives the largest possible working area. I’m using software offsets for squaring, but I plan to change that when I install my metal XZ plates.
Mine are both out some right now to make the offset to my spoil board close to exactly 1/2"
Mine has fallen off on my LR3 more times than I can count, not just the Y switch(es), but sometimes the X and Z ones as well. Usually from snagging it on clothing/carpet/table etc. It pops right back into place, with a bit of fiddling.
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I bought a pack of like 10 from Ryan, because of this. 
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I just ordered from Amazon 50 for $11 (says they’ll arrive tomorrow… But everything is late with shipments these days… I’m still waiting on belts from Ryan that he shipped out last week…
I was able to locate the ejected lever and popped it back into place. it has a little more up/down wiggle than I would like so I’ll see about swapping it out whenever Amazon gets around to delivering the replacements to me 
In the meantime I’m back up and running.
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I just bought 10 from the V1 store as well, lol.
I got some from Amazon before, cheaper when you consider border charges to Canada, but Ryan’s are a bit different from those, and this way, it’s a sure thing. I know Im using the same switches as designed. (I also bought a bunch more stuff, at the same time.)
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