I don’t know about how well they’d cut aluminium (I’d guess all equally well, if the rest of the machine was properly tuned), but in general, the issues with cutting alu are usually issues of heat build-up and chip evacuation, causing the chips or stock to weld to the bit or collet. All three of these should have plenty of power to cut aluminium.
From close second-hand knowledge (my father was a general contractor for many, many years), I know that Makita and Bosch are quality tool makers. And I’ve not heard a lot of bad things about Ryobi. From a pure logistics point of view, I’d be tempted by the Ryobi or Makita, because the power cord comes out of the top of the body, not the side, so it will be easier to deal with when figuring out the mount. I know there are mounts for Makitas, but I haven’t seen many (any?) for the Ryobis. The Bosch mounts I’ve seen are mostly for the Colts, which appear to only be available in NA. Having a known working mount available to print is always a good thing…
The 0700 versions have more power than the M3700B, 710 compared to 550 WATTS. I don’t know if your suggested model has RPM-control, but the RT0700 has for sure. I think you will get buy well with both!
Blowing air, by holding an nozzle by hand or mounting a compressor-nozzle on the gantry, would greatly aid the cutting - I think it would matter more than the type of router.
That’s impressive. Wouldn’t have thought that a Dremel could do that. I happen to need a new Dremel as well, I think the old one has run out electricity or something, perhaps the paint has scuffed a little. My 15 year old one has a really weird body shape that makes it very difficult to mount, whereas the 395 has bits on thingiverse for MPCNC mounts.
Then again, I have so many other projects on the go:
Redo my spoilboard as I got the first wrong wrong.
Fit a dust sheet to my MPCNC to stop the inordinate amount of dust milling MDF creates.
Attaching brighter LED lights strips to the frame so I can see what’s going on. The ultra-bright LED lights I got from Amazon turned out to be wrong on Ultra and Bright Though they were LED’s.
Finishing off printing a lightweight Z axis so I can design a decent dust shoe that works with my Katsu router. I do need to understand a little more about how air moves at speed. Am printing the tubes at the moment.
Extend the leg height as I cocked up the sizing measurements on my MPCNC. That’s going to be fun (not!).
Try and understand SVG files so I can write my own gcode. Why, oh, why did they introduce the worlds crappiest way to save a byte here and there on path definitions. Words fail me.
Debug why CNC.js doesn’t work on a Raspberry Pi 4 for me. Beeon on that list for two months now.
Try and use a V bit to carve letters on wood even though thats not my business use case. It’s fun.
FWIW, I think dremel is an example of getting success with the worst possible spindle. You really don’t need an intense spindle to get it done. And I would be really careful considering a dremel. Many of the ones we’ve seen have a lot of runout.
I think you’re right, but it’s also an example of getting results in spite of the worst possible spindle. I intend to use mine as a temporary spindle until I get comfortable with the rest of the machine and software.
If you’ve already got something, and you are willing to risk it having it’s own issues out of the gate, then that’s a good strategy. I wasn’t trying to discourage dremel users.
But the bigger point is, you don’t need much horsepower. It really isn’t a bottleneck.
And a broader, more subtle point is that a whole lot of “chasing zeros” is all good fun as thought experiments, but 3/4" EMT on PLA printed parts from reasonably calibrated printers married with some functional spindle will still give perfectly serviceable results with fairly reasonable tuning/allowances. Or 25mm DOM with whatever off-brand trim router is available in your region (Katsu?), didn’t mean to be so US-centric.
Sorry to hear that, but as @timonjkl didn’t quite say, glad that it was limited to the Dremel and the workpiece. Like you, I plan to use it as a first pass spindle, to be replaced by something more substantive after I prove to myself that I A) have a working machine, and 2) use it enough to “invest” in a proper spindle/DW660.