I always print at about 33mm/s, For me it seems to give the most consistent, and strongest parts. I’m a quality over quantity kinda guy.
I’m working on another prusa style printer.
I always print at about 33mm/s, For me it seems to give the most consistent, and strongest parts. I’m a quality over quantity kinda guy.
I’m working on another prusa style printer.
Well I had to switch over to Slic3r. I updated cura and the update broke infill. And it’s a shame because I made some adjustments that looked really great. But it would have been a useless part. After some fiddling I got slicer working pretty well with my printer. But It seems to have a larger temperature swings as shown by the color bands in the print. Any ideas how to fix that?
Sorry, Slic3r on the left and cura on the right.
You can PID tune your hot end. But I have never seen one that far off. PID tuning tends to make the largest difference with initial heat up. Does that show in the temp graph of repetier while your printing, how many degrees does it fluctuate?
I don’t know if I can access that. But I was watching it on the lcd and watch it swing 5-6 and it’s a rapid swing not slowly like cura which might only fluctuate 2-3
Sounds like a loose fit. Try and get your thermistor deeper into the heating block and secure it. it actually take a long time to fluctuate 6 degrees. Even with a fan on it.
Thanks I’ll look into that tomorrow.
Hey Vicious, I was hoping you could help me. My printers bed stopped heating. I checked continuity on the bed wires and they have it. Bed teamps read normally and will move if I warm the bed with a hair dryer. I opened the case and and looked at the connections there and I found the power wire to the bed seemed to have some crappy solder to the board, I removed and replace the solder but it still doesn’t work. Do you think I need to replace the board? It’s a Melzi Ardentissimo in a Monoprice maker select. Thanks.
It’s probably the mosfet, are any of them discolored? Mine usually fail On though. I had two of those board crap out on me in about a month when I bought the super discount printers.
No, it seems to be okay.
Getting 12v from the heater port when enabled? If not there isn’t much you cad do.
Well I just check that. And Yeah I got 12v I set it over 60 Then the thing started to heat up… So stupid. I’m guessing this isn’t going to be the last time I have this problem. If I do Do you think I could just by you electrical kit for the MPCNC and use that board until I’m done printing?
Yeah the ramps board will work.
Thanks for you help man. I got everything back together and about to run a test print. it’s still working.
And I’m done. My printer went up in smoke tonight. So i can’t continue with printing either the MPCNC or the MP3DP that I started. Any good suggestions? I’m thinking about buying an original prusa i3, It’s just going to take a while to get the money.
How close are you to having the parts ready for one to the other? If the MP3DP, do you have the routed parts done as well?
Im 50 percent done with the mpcnc. I only have the fan, bearing mounts and the 4 connectors for the bed axis done for the mp3dp. So im still aways off. I have a local maker space i could cut the frame at, but id have to pay for a membership. Which cost as much as all the electronics id need for one machine.
I think I’d focus on getting the MP3DP up by buying the printed and routed parts, then use it to finish the printed parts for your MPCNC. The printer uses less hardware and the cost of the parts is quite a bit lower than the other route. Hardware costs for the printer is mostly stuff that fits both plus the rods, bearings and extruder. You were going to have to get the extruder anyway…
By any chance would you be willing to finish printing my parts for me? I really miss having a printer, which btw I just got a refund on and they didn’t give me the full refund like they said they would so I’ll have to spend some time with amazon support later.
I was looking into buying the Mk2 upgrade kit from prusa, it comes with 5 motors with the z axes rods built in. and ed3 v6 hot end their probe and heated bed. And a bunch of plastic parts. Do you think it will work with this design? I think After all I would need is an lcd wires and belts and a rambo mini or something like it.