an enclosure is your best bet
1 Like
Today IĀ“m trying to print multiple parts at the same time, so far so good.
I looked at an enclosure but I didnĀ“t order one because I am not sure on how the roll of filament and filament holder was going to fit in it.
Adapt and overcome. That is the Army motto. Many enclosures have a velcro slot to allow the filament through. If not a slot can be made fairly fast.
I see these warped parts as a good reason to reprint most of the parts and mainly changing the color schema. Perhaps orange and red.
Or some other color combination that would look good.
2 Likes
WhatĀ“s the best way to clean glass from 3d printing bed adhesive?
What are you using? only thing i use is hairspray if needed. (that comes off with warm water)
I am using primafix from primacreator, not sure on what the glue actually is.
It did come off with a kitchen glass scraper. Do you use hairspray directly on the glass?
Primafix? is that just a glue stick?
yeah hair spray directly on the glass.
PrimaFIX ā bed adhesive - PrimaCreator.
Says cleanup in water. (ive never used the stuff)
Hair spray is cheap 
Have you tried hairspary on blue painters tape?
I use both gluestick and blue painters tape but IĀ“ll try with just the glue for a print. I usually get a couple of prints with the same painters tape.
And I think warm water will work!
Noā¦I used glue sticksā¦didn`t like them. Never used tape
Now only use the glass bed directly. Only use hair spray if i have issues
What was it that you didnĀ“t like?
I printed two parts this night, one with low bed temp and one with high bed temp, both came out warped. The common factor is still the low ambient temp. IĀ“ll probaly get a enclosure to stop getting warped parts.
alsoā¦have you tried flipping your glass bed?
Even make a little enclosure (with what you have laying around) just to dry keep any drafts away and also how the heat closer for a little longer. (I would even try a cardboard box)
No, I have though about it but never actually did it.
At the moment I am printing on 3 mm window glass (non tempered). I have a tempered glass plate also that I havenĀ“t used yet.
I am using a premade calibration file for the ender 3 max, that moves into all 4 corners and the glass on top of the build plate feels even.
the bed temp basically makes your parts stick. I donāt think you have a problem with this.I
If it was me i would try hold more heat in (enclosure) the fan should handle the cooling. (fan can be turned off too) Just need to find out what works in your situation
A temp tower can give you alot of clues
Yeah, I saw your post in another thread with links to different calibration files. I have only tried benchys and calibration cubes, I printed a 30x30x30 cube recently and it came out to be 30.0x on all sides.
I agree that the problem is with the draft and the cold air. I am traveling later today to where I have another printer and much higher ambient temp since that printer isnĀ“t in a basement.
Do you have a desk lamp? those things can generate a little heat and have a flexible head. You may be able to push a little extra heat toward the part itself.
I havenāt tried that though. Just trying to think of things you may have on hand
Yeah, a little MacGyver thinking could work.
What do you think of my build order? First ZenXY v2, Lowrider v3 and then possible MP3DP?
Depends. For me I was looking for a CNC. But after building it I now realize I have to build everything else now too. I havenāt looked at the ZenXY but I plan on doing the MP3DP after I have the lowrider set up the way I want it.