Spent the day finishing up the control box. Had some spacing issue on the backplate between the power inlet switch and the outlet box, so I rebuilt the back end of the box. Moved the outlet close to the middle, and left more room for the inlet and switch. And, since I tightened up all the belts and re-tensioned the core, the result was way better than the previous attempts.
This job took about 13 minutes to cut, and only about 10 minutes of sanding to cleanup all the fuzzies. Aviation connectors fit like a glove this time, and the opening for the electrical box only needed minor adjustment with the box cutter to clear out some cut cut pieces.
For anyone keeping score, I have fusion setup to use the 3mm (not 1/8" like it claims on the package) bit and run it at 1000mm/min (~16mm/sec) with a 6mm DOC. The trochoidal clearing of the connector recess isn’t nearly that fast because of all the ups and downs of the Z-axis, but once it starts cutting the holes for the outlet, switch, and the outside cutout, it flies. Only artifacts of that speed are the slight divots where it stops to leave the tabs.
Next up was building the top cover to enclose and protect all the electronics. There isn’t any ventilation in the box at the moment, but I haven’t quite figured out how to add it without allowing all the saw dust and wood chips to also get inside.
I printed out the mount that goes with the old display holder from my Burly and mounted it on the front. I was concerned about the size of the mount and how far out it pushed the display, but in practice is has worked out well.
Inside the box, everything has been attached to the base except for the power supply for the Rambo. Printed a custom mount for the Rambo to allow me to attach it to the base along with cable clips to route all the 120V wiring through the case and keep things clean.
In the final layout, the Rambo is in the back right next to the back plate to shorten the mess of wires that connect the stepper drivers and endstops to the aviation connectors on the back.
In front of that is the Solid State Relay that controls the two outlets on the back. The router gets plugged into this to allow automatic control. Once I figure out how dust collection is going to be handled, I could use the second outlet to have the vacuum come on at the same time as the router. I just need to figure out if the circuit can handle the surge of both those devices powering on simultaneously.
On the back left is a terminal block for the neutral side of the 120V. It connects to the power inlet and both electrical boxes.
In front of the neutral block is the internal outlet. This is where the power supplies for the Rambo and Raspberry Pi are plugged in. It powers up as soon as the power switch on the inlet is turned on (assuming the E-Stop isn’t pushed).
In the front right is the Raspberry Pi running V1Pi. It is hooked up to the Rambo and my Wifi so that I can connect to it and control the CNC from a laptop when necessary. I need to find a way to use it to flash firmware to the Rambo so that I can compile on the computer, then upload and flash without having to disconnect the Rambo and drag it and it’s power supply inside to update it.
On the front left is the terminal block for the 120V hot side. The Hot side comes in through the inlet, runs the length of the box through the E-Stop, then into the terminal block. From there it is connected to the SSR and then to the outlets on the back. It is also connected to the internal outlet.
A lot of words to describe everything. If you have questions about anything, let me know.
I still need to design and print out a Position-o-Matic 3000 sticker to go on the front of the box though.