Yeah, the gear has a nice needle bearing it, but there is nothing on the outside. The odd part is why is it pushing so hard into the lever/holder, the filament groove should keep it centered so it must not be in the center. My guess is it is a bad design and BTT does not have a fix. I should get a response later this evening.
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I just pulled apart a new one, no lube whatsoever on this needle bearing at all, the other bearings are lubed. I am going to put it together with some fancy lube and see if either lasts a little longer while I wait to see what BTT says.
Sure hope its not a “build it to last past the return window” situation
Those orbiter v3’s look pretty nice.
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Cad up a mount and ill sure try one out LOL. Trying to get it mounted is what stopped me from running a V2 from the get go LOL
Are the orbiters the ones at the ldo booth? Those looked pretty slick. It was always too crowded to ask about them though.
The true story of the Smart Orbiter v3 – ORBITER PROJECTS, not seeing anything but attention to detail.
Yup, I order a couple to try and beat them up a bit, and fabreeko has PET-cf in red back in stock.
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Honestly this was one of the things I was looking forward to because of the speed potential. Huge disappointment.
I like the Hemeras because of the available replacement parts and so far they’ve treated me fairly well (mine all have titanium heat breaks now though.)
I still plan to build a V5, building up a shopping basket in store. I’ll wait to see what happens with extruders.
I have the V3 on the operating table now. My SKR Pro popped a fan MOSFET, and the hotend cooling fan stopped working. Fortunately I was able to get the mess out of the titanium heat break, but it does put the printer in the non-functional status.
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Well it is looking like the orbiter is a much higher flow rate (2-3x the h2 with the CHT which is crazy). Not too much more expensive and the filament sensor is in a place that makes some more sense for loading and unloading…but you still need the smart sensor for the position sensing.
With klipper it is pretty easy just to swap to another port. The board is not a total waste
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Well, I have options.
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I am only using 2 of the 3 fan ports, so it would be easy enough to just reassign the pin.
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I have another complete SKR Pro. It even has all 6 drivers, though not entirely necessary.
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I have a bin full of assorted MOSFETs 99% sure I have the right one already or at least one that will work.
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I have a Duet 3 mini 5 with the 2 driver expansion board (7 drivers total) that I could swap in. This is the most appealing option to me, actually, as it gets me the RRF that I know well, and the wifi connectivity and control that I am accustomed to. The downside is re-crimping everything for the new board, which is why it isn’t already done. I am actually considering saving that board and using a clone board (same thing, but one board instead of the pair) which has more similar connectors… I think I just sold myself on the idea…
I have other boards that could use Klipper with a Pi as the brains of it, but could also use the SKR Pro for the V5. I feel like I should try it out, the input shaping seems like a good idea.
Well, I have to say I was extremely shocked at just how different it is. There is a bit of a learning curve but I am loving it now.
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Had this same thing happen on my Revo H2. They sent me replacement parts with the exception of the pin (save that!). I figured out that I had adjusted the tension too far and put some side strain on the lever.
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That is crazy, yours has worked ever since? Both my tensions are set at the loosest position.
That’s how its been set since new?
Yup, it said pre-set, and the steppers skipped before the filament so I never added any.
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Then too tight shouldn’t have been an issue for what you ended up with that’s for sure. I have never adjusted either of my Lite’s I need to pull the one on the V4 apart and see what it looks like inside. That’s the one making the noise.
Yeah I thought my rail bearing were crapping out, nope that noise was the grindage.
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